burns the fuel then dies. Check and getting good spark.
2-Cycle Tiller

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You say it’s not getting fuel? when you bypassed the filter was gas coming out of the fuel line right where it connects to the carb? If it runs on ether, carb cleaner or pouring fuel in the carb then your problem wont be the the carb or motor it will be something like a cracked, dryrotted or pinhole in the fuel line. Or something restricting the flow from the tank to the carb.

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This could be due to a number of reasons, such as a fuel filter that is clogged, a faulty fuel pump, or a blocked fuel line. Other issues include a faulty carburetor, a misaligned float, or a worn gasket.
To check fuel delivery, remove the fuel line where it enters the carburetor and use a length of rubber hose to direct the flow into bottle or similar container. Fuel should pulse out in strong spurts if your engine is equipped with a mechanical fuel pump (electric fuel pumps are more of a steady stream).
Check the Fuel Filter

To start, tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If that doesn`t work, you might have a clogged filter. Not all lawn mowers have a fuel filter, but for the ones that do, it`s usually located in the fuel line or the fuel tank.

Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten. Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace. Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If this doesn`t work, you might need a new fuel filter.
The carburetor is controlled by pressure differences. In the main body of a four-barrel carburetor there are four venturi. The shape, size and length of each help determine airflow and fuel flow into the engine. The term venturi came from its inventor Giovanni Battista Venturi.
Worn piston rings or reed valves that are no longer sealing properly may be the cause of the poor startability characteristic. When the piston rings don`t seal properly, the engine doesn`t build good compression, so when kicked, the engine struggles to come to life.
Accelerator-pump system

Open the throttle quickly. You should see the accelerator pump system discharge a squirt of fuel into each primary barrel. The flow should continue for a few seconds after the throttle valve reaches the wide-open throttle position. If not, the accelerator pump system is defective.

This is typically the result of a lean fuel mixture, which means too much air and not enough fuel. A weak accelerator pump, worn throttle shafts, or dirt inside the carburetor are a few of the problems that might be causing the poor air/fuel mixture. Another recognizable sign of carburetor trouble is rough idling .
Weak or Corroded Fuel Pump.

If the fuel pump in your car goes bad, gas won`t be able to flow from the tank to the engine, and it simply won`t be able to run on its own. So we`ll simply recommend that you have the pump replaced.

When the driver presses the throttle pedal, the accelerator pump (a small piston pump or a diaphragm pump) directly pumps extra fuel into the carburetor throat. The accelerator pump can also be used to “prime” an engine with extra fuel prior to assist with a cold start.
Common causes include a dirty air filter, spark plug, and carburetor. To fix these issues, replace the fuel filter, clean the carburetor and spark plug, and replace the fuel if it is old as illustrated below.

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Wont run, not getting fuel. disconnected fuel filter, still nothing. Can spray a shot of carb cleaner directly into carb, and will run until it burns the fuel then dies. Check and getting good spark.
ANSWER : You say it’s not getting fuel? when you bypassed the filter was gas coming out of the fuel line right where it connects to the carb? If it runs on ether, carb cleaner or pouring fuel in the carb then your problem wont be the the carb or motor it will be something like a cracked, dryrotted or pinhole in the fuel line. Or something restricting the flow from the tank to the carb.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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I have a craftsman 25 cc string trimmer with fuel problems. After winter, ran tank of good fuel through it and it worked fine. Added fuel (unknowingly with water in it) and it ran on a slow idle and finally died. Drained fuel, took carb apart and cleaned, blowed out carb and reassembled. Still only ran on a slow idle – no throttle response. Took cover off with air cleaner and it ran fine. Seems to blow too much fuel out where filter sits. Put filter back on and runs on slow idle. Almost seems it is flooding, but have not adjusted anything, just cleaned. What do I need to do next?
ANSWER : You shouldn’t notice a difference if you remove the air filter. So I would replace it. Also if you are using compressed air to clean or blow-out the carb. Be careful, its not recommended and could make it worse.

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Carb problems wont stay running unless i unplug and plug in the anti diesel switch the plug on the fuel bowl
ANSWER : Check and see if all your carb jets or clean sound like some dirt got into one

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I have a Echo leaf blower and I can get it running but then it’s cuts off after just a few seconds. It has new plug, air filter and fuel filter. What else could it be?
ANSWER : The carburetor could be dirty and need a good cleaning and you could first remove the fuel pump cover (cover without the vent hole) to the carburetor and look for the small, round, fine-mesh screen. Sometimes it gets covered with dirt and debris and has to be cleaned as it allows the fuel to flow into the metering side of the carburetor.

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Wont stay running – Mtd 22" Yard Machine Push Mower
ANSWER : Under neath the carby is a single brass bolt, undo it

that one bolt is a multi jet, find four holes use a fine pin and carby cleaner ,hint one is at the top were the thread starts , one is in the inside center and two in the sides
put it back in and prim and start, hope it helps

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

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