it is not pulling fuel. It has been sitting for a while. I have been starting it every couple weeks , But now it will not run Thanks
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Sounds like there is air in the(diesel?) fuel system.Remove the fuel filter and fill it up with fuel if possible. There might be a little lever on the fuel pump to prime the system and a bleed screw on the filter housing to get the air out. If it has a diesel engine, loosen about half of the injector lines and crank it over until you get fuel to come out. when the engine starts, tighten the fuel lines.

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :

Why Is My Lawnmower Turning Over But Not Starting? If you pull the cord and hear your engine turn over, but your mower is not starting, the most common reasons for this are low fuel, a broken gas valve, or a bad choke fault. A broker spark plug could also be the culprit.
Dead car battery: A dead battery is the most common reason why a car won`t start. If you have a battery tester, check your battery to see if it`s weak. If you don`t have one, try to jump start your car with jumper cables.
The most common sign of a clogged fuel filter is trouble starting the car, since it depletes the oil supply going to the engine. Although a dirty fuel filter leads to ignition difficulty, a fully-clogged filter will fail completely, and the engine won`t start at all.
Use Carburetor Cleaner

Fortunately, you can generally do this without even taking the carburetor out of the engine. Start by purchasing some commercial lawnmower carburetor cleanerOpens a new window, which comes in a simple spray can and will make it easy to clean the inside and outside of the carb.

Bad Sensors

One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.

Fortunately (spoiler alert) the root cause of a no-crank is almost always simple. Most of the time it`s simply due to a low or dead battery, or voltage drop through a corroded connection. Rule those out before you suspect the starter itself.
A dirty carburetor is one of the most common causes for a lawn mower not being able to start after sitting unused for months or years at a time.
A dirty carburetor is one of the most common causes for a lawn mower not being able to start after sitting unused for months or years at a time.
A dirty carburetor is the most common cause of a lawn mower that starts and then dies. Other possible causes include: Stale/Dirty Gas. Faulty Choke.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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I have a John Deere L118 Limited Edition (w/ 20 HP B&S engine), which I purchased about 8 years ago. It ran well with few problems up to late this summer. I believe the problem started when I accidentally filled the tank with some stale gasoline – the tractor turned over, but would not start. I drained the fuel tank and filled it with fresh gas, but it still would not start. When I use starter fluid, the tractor starts for 4-5 seconds, and then cuts off. I installed a new fuel filter. The connections in the fuel line seem tight, so while the problem might be the vacuum fuel pump itself, I do not think it is due to a leak in the line. I disconnected the fuel line at the carburetor — fuel flows through the line at start up. But when I put the fuel line directly into the air intake (with some starting fluid), the engine still cuts off in about 4 seconds. I am not sure if the pump simply is not drawing enough fuel into the carburetor. I understand that, if it is a problem with a safety cut-off, the engine would not start at all (even for 4 seconds). My thought was that the problem may be a gummed up carburetor, but that would not explain why the tractor does not start when I feed fuel directly into the carburetor. Any thoughts about other things I can try before bringing the tractor to a mechanic?
ANSWER : Just take the carb bowl off its easy one bolt on the bottom of it get the old gas out flush all old gas out of tank and line then it will run trust me i know

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

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Bobcat 773 wont restart after dying out where do i start?
ANSWER : If the bobcat starts and then runs for a short time then dies the first place to look is the fuel system.fuel filters are the most common problems that i see replace those first.i have also found some junk inside the pickup tube inside the tank.there is probably a ball type hand pump to prime the fuel system.give that a squeeze and see if its hard.if thats the case there shoud be a small screw on top of the fuel filter.loosen that screw and see if fuel comes out when you sqeeze the ball.if your changing fuel filters this is also where you blead air from the system,keep pumping untill there is only fuel and no air.if you still get air after pumping for a long time then your sucking air into the system between the tank and pump.after you get fuel there close the screw,loosen the injector lines going to the injectors,crank the engine,and tighten when fuel comes out (keep clear because that is high pressure fuel).after you get fuel at all injectors and they are all tightened it should start.

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I have a poulan p3314 chainsaw. It has been sitting up for a while. When I started it, I could not get it to run beyond an idle. Every time I squeezed the gas, it quit. Finally, it quit and refused to start. I decided to put fresh gas in it and change the spark plug. When I emptied the gas tank, the fuel filter fell out. The fuel line had rotted. I contacted Poulan, and they sent a new filter and line. Their instructions were inadequate. First, it is difficult to tell where to attach the new line. there appears to be a fitting in the front end of the tank. There is also a piece of rotted tube end the back end of the tank.

1) where does the tube with the filter attach?
2) how do you go about attaching the new tube? Can the tank be removed? It seems like it might take a special tool or some nimble fingers to attach the new tube
3) would this have been the cause of the rough running and its refusal to start?

ANSWER : The ful line actualy disloved and the problem is inside the carburtator there is a valve that lets fuel into the fuel bowl and also shuts it off when its full the floats control it so its always opening and closeing that is stuck closed from the melted fuel line you need to clean the entire carburator out the neddle valve may have a rubber tip at the seal point so take care not to damage it ware it makes the seal but its not hard to do anyone with some common sence and a little mechanical abilitly can do them selves

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My Z5426 won’t start. When I pull out the choke and turn the key, gas starts leaking out of the exhaust system just before it gets to the muffler. Last time it did start, it ran really rough. So, I turn off the engine and then tried to restart and that’s when I noticed the fuel leak.
ANSWER : Maybe bad fuel, fuel line leaking, flooding of the carburetor, since it did start and ran rough I am assuming that the gas was left set and more then likely this gummed up the carburetor, you will have to clean/rebuild it. If you have a can of carburetor clean you may be able to spray that into there and clean it up, I would not choke it to start it as it sounds like it got/is flooded/ing. Good Luck Tim

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It’s brand new, when I finally get it started it will run good for about 1 min. or less, and then it dies. I pull the choke out all the way, pull it a couple of times, push it half way in, it starts but it’s like it doesn’t have the power to turn the chain, bogging out and then it dies, I will never buy another homelite product, or recommend anyone else to, this is my second one, the first one leaked gas, Home Depot really should quit selling them, there making you look bad too!!
ANSWER : Hi paulbonser… Set your point gap to .20 using a feeler gauge… You can also use a paper matchbook cover, it ia approx. .20 to set the gap on the points. Please take time tor rate me

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