then it sees to over rev before cutting out. If I start it immediately it will run for a few seconds and cut out again.
“Chain Saw – 16” Bar, 3 Hp
Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
Check the fuel filter in the tank for plugging. Check the fuel lines for kinks, rotting, or splits. Check the muffler and air cleaner for plugging. Make sure all the screws and mounting nuts are tight on the carburetor. When these things look ok, then turn the H needle jet CCW about 1/2 turn, start the engine and let it warm up. Open the throttle fully–the engine should be 4-stroking now. Proper adjustment is when the engine will 4-stroke, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. You may need to turn the H needle somewhat CW to achieve that condition. Hope this helps!
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
1. Dull chain and or improper lubrication to the bar and chain, sharpen and or clean the bars oil holes. 2. Air filter and fuel filter for restrictions and contamination, clean or replace as needed.
A fuel line blockage or a small crack in the fuel line can let air into the fuel line, and can cause fuel to leak, preventing your engine from running at full power. To replace the fuel lines, simply disconnect them from the fuel filter and the carburetor, and replace them with new ones.
Check the Fuel Flow The flow of fuel must also remain consistent during operation. If you`re dropping power under load and your air systems are clean, then somewhere gas is leaking from the system. You`ll want to start at the tank, checking the vent hole on the tank to make sure it`s not plugged.
If your chainsaw still starts and then stops working, check the air filter. Clean or replace the air filter if it is dirty or damaged. Another reason that your chainsaw starts and then stops working could be that the spark arrestor is dirty or clogged. If this is the case, clean it with a wire brush.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Will not run under load, seems to be starving for fuel. When I leave it for a minute or two, I can start it and work with it for a minute or so then it sees to over rev before cutting out. If I start it immediately it will run for a few seconds and cut out again.
ANSWER : Check the fuel filter in the tank for plugging. Check the fuel lines for kinks, rotting, or splits. Check the muffler and air cleaner for plugging. Make sure all the screws and mounting nuts are tight on the carburetor. When these things look ok, then turn the H needle jet CCW about 1/2 turn, start the engine and let it warm up. Open the throttle fully–the engine should be 4-stroking now. Proper adjustment is when the engine will 4-stroke, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. You may need to turn the H needle somewhat CW to achieve that condition. Hope this helps!
Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
I have a John Deere L118 Limited Edition (w/ 20 HP B&S engine), which I purchased about 8 years ago. It ran well with few problems up to late this summer. I believe the problem started when I accidentally filled the tank with some stale gasoline – the tractor turned over, but would not start. I drained the fuel tank and filled it with fresh gas, but it still would not start. When I use starter fluid, the tractor starts for 4-5 seconds, and then cuts off. I installed a new fuel filter. The connections in the fuel line seem tight, so while the problem might be the vacuum fuel pump itself, I do not think it is due to a leak in the line. I disconnected the fuel line at the carburetor — fuel flows through the line at start up. But when I put the fuel line directly into the air intake (with some starting fluid), the engine still cuts off in about 4 seconds. I am not sure if the pump simply is not drawing enough fuel into the carburetor. I understand that, if it is a problem with a safety cut-off, the engine would not start at all (even for 4 seconds). My thought was that the problem may be a gummed up carburetor, but that would not explain why the tractor does not start when I feed fuel directly into the carburetor. Any thoughts about other things I can try before bringing the tractor to a mechanic?
ANSWER : Just take the carb bowl off its easy one bolt on the bottom of it get the old gas out flush all old gas out of tank and line then it will run trust me i know
Seems to start easily run for a few minutes and then slow and stop–bulb remains full –gas is good–have tried half choke in case too lean–did not solve–also seems possibly related to the angle I hold it at–seems to cut out quicker if blower tube angled more downward.
ANSWER : Your filter may be hanging up in the tank. you also my be losing compression
Lawn mower will start and run for 5 seconds and shut down
ANSWER : Will it stay running with your choke on? if so then clean your carb. if not then look for a blockage from tank to carb. ie fuel shut off, deteriorated fuel line. plugged filter etc
Does not run, will start with starting fluid – Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller
ANSWER : You should never use starting fluid on this model.
Add a couple of ounces of 100% acetone (available at Walmart) to some fresh fuel. Attempt to start for several pulls. Let sit for several minutes and repeat until it sounds like it wants to run.
Then watch this video and do it:
http://www.alamia.us/mantis_parts_s/148.htm
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
Strimmer starts and runs but cuts out when at full power
ANSWER : Easiest place to look first would be to see if one of the fuel hoses has split. May be hard to see but that would cause it to **** air instead of fuel. Eventually, the split or hole would become so big that it wouldn’t stay running at all, and probably not even start. If that doesn’t do it, make sure the fuel you have is still good and try running a little Seafoam with the fuel and see if it clears up. After that, I would be looking at carefully cleaning the carburetor which may require dis-assembly as well as new gaskets etc.
