rt … new plug ,,,, new gas …..no start ,,,tired arm ,??????
Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
Is there a compression release button?
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
A dirty carburetor, bad gasoline and low-quality two-stroke oil that creates deposits all contribute to chainsaw starting problems.
For most average-sized chainsaws a good compression reading should be around 110 PSI; for larger chainsaws, 160 PSI is better.
If you do notice the rope slowly extending, then the chainsaw compression is most likely low and needs checking more precisely. The most common places for an air leak to occur are on the crankshafts seals. Damage to the piston or the piston rings may also be the cause of the problem.
The ignition coil is the device that sends voltage to the spark plug, creating a spark that ignites the fuel and turns on the chainsaw. If the engine is not turning on, then the coil may have become defective, which can happen over time with repeated use.
If your STIHL chainsaw is going to have a problem, it`s likely to be with a worn carburetor, bad spark plugs, loose fuel hoses, or clogged fuel lines. You should also inspect the fuel intake system and ensure that there are no compression issues.
If your electric chainsaw won`t start, try examining it for these issues: Not pressing the safety button at the same time as the trigger. Tripped electrical breaker (for corded chainsaws) Frayed or damaged electrical cord (for corded chainsaws)
Running compression at idle should be 50-75 PSI (about half cranking compression). Snap throttle compression should be about 80% of cranking compression.
What Causes Chain Saw Kickback? There are two circumstances that can cause kickback when using a chain saw. The first occurs when the moving chain at the tip or the nose of the guide bar strikes an object. The second situation is when the wood closes in, pinching the saw chain in the middle of the cut.
If your chainsaw does not start, the fuel may be too hot. To prevent this from happening, always use fresh fuel and reduce your operating time when the weather is warm. If your chainsaw will not start, place it in a cool area away from sunlight for at least 20 minutes.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
While trying to start the saw the compression is so great that it is near imposible to pull the start rope ….ie won’t spin fast enough to start … new plug ,,,, new gas …..no start ,,,tired arm ,??????
Is there a compression release button?
Chain saw won’t start – pull starter pulley hard to pull?
If it worked fine the last time you used it, then pull the spark plug and try pulling the rope. See if it’s easier or if gas shoots out of the plug hole. I’ve seen this happen when the diaphram in the carb goes bad from sitting over winter. It loads up the cylider with fuel and makes it very difficult to pull the rope. If there is no fuel in the cyliner and it’s still hard to pull, make sure there is nothing binding the clutch/sprocket. I’ve had chucks of wook lodged in there that caused it to bind the crank output, which resulted in a hard pull on the rope as well.
Toro clear won't start – Toro Power Clear 621 R
Bad gas , plug ,air filter , no spark ck all need all 3 to start
Will not start. changed to a new plug. Plug does have a spark. Seems to be getting gas as the more I pull the rope the more gas collects in the cylindar. Last spring I loaned it to a friend. Last summer I ran it briefly & it was idling extremely fast. I changed the gas before I tried to start it. Could the idle be messed up ? Idle Screw What is the approximate counter clockwise turns to get the idle in the “ballpark” to run ?
Better check friend might not have added oil to gas and it scored the cylinder wall
Toro 149cc Lawn Mower Won't Start – Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools
Bad carburetor your old fuel jammed up the jet so it won’t get fuel and if it does it will start and shut off So replace the carb or try to clean the jet and run non oxy fuel only
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
My Mcculloch chain saw has fire at spark plug gap. The plug is wet after trying to start it. Gas lines are clear. I can feel compression with my finger over the plug hole while pulling the rope. It was running fine last time I used it, drained tank & ran it till it stopped running. It just does not even act like it will start, can it be the reed valve stuck?
Ready to buy a new saw.
It sounds like the compression is too low to fire the engine. Try starting it off choke with the throttle trigger open all the way.
I rebuilt the carb as you advised. It took me a long time to get a kit because no one had one around here. I have new gas, new plug and still no go. I removed the plug and it was dry, so I put alittle gas in the plug hole and tried again, no go. What do you suggest I do now? Thanks Lee
Check to see if you have spark. This is done by removing the spark plug, connecting the wire to it placing it plug against the metal on the motor and pulling the starter cord. It is best to do this where the light is not bright because what you will be looking for is a spark on the spark plug. If there is a strong spark then that is good and will start it if the fuel/air ration is right. I hope this helps.