, opened air cleaner, clean. tried starting w/o air cleaner on, same results,
Pro 22″ Self Propelled High Wheel Mower

Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
Hi frankdhun…

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.Make sure you are using fresh fuel…and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate me 4 thumbs up

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :

If the motor starts initially but then won`t stay running, that means it`s getting a good initial injection of gas from the primer bulb, but then the carburetor starves off the oxygen it needs to keep combusting. When your carburetor is clogged, the cause is likely to be evaporated gas that has gummed up the pores.
Your Mower Won`t Start:

Other possible causes include: Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten. Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace. Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas.

Operate the mower engine in the fast position. Engines with primer: For most temperature conditions, firmly push the primer bulb three times. In cooler weather, additional priming may be needed. A warm engine will usually not require priming.
Most self propelled mowers utilize a solid shaft drive transfer system that turns the drive axle to both wheels simultaneously. If the drive loss is only in one wheel, the problem is likely a trapped, broken, or missing part within the drive ratchet or gear system of the non-functioning wheel.
Over-priming can happen when the primer bulb is pushed too many times. This can result in the engines of your lawnmower becoming flooded by fuel. The fuel can spread into the combustion chamber, where it can gather and pool. Under this condition, the spark plug can get too wet and will not ignite.
A dirty carburetor is the most common cause of a lawn mower that starts and then dies. Other possible causes include: Stale/Dirty Gas. Faulty Choke.
Locate the primer bulb on your mower. Push the bulb five times to prime the engine.
When your lawnmower is stone cold, do you have trouble starting it? The reason for this is that, when the mower sits unused for a while, the fuel in the carburetor evaporates. By priming the carburetor, you will inject some fuel into its float bowl, which should allow you to start the engine.
The prime and pull strategy relies on two steps: (1) conventional parenteral vaccination to elicit systemic T-cell responses (prime), followed by 2) recruitment of activated T cells via topical administration of a T cell attractant (pull), where such T cells establish long-term protective immunity.
A low level of power steering fluid is the number one cause of a steering wheel being hard to turn. While refilling the power steering reservoir with fluid will temporarily fix the problem, the root cause of the disappearing power steering fluid will need to be found.
If your steering wheel locks up while the car is in motion, perhaps the most likely culprit is a lack of power steering fluid, or dirty power steering fluid. Especially at lower speeds like parking lot maneuvers, the power steering system allows you to turn the wheels with ease.
Your lawn mower runs for 30 minutes then dies if you are having issues such as a bad spark plug, air problems, a malfunctioning carburetor, or a faulty gas cap. You may even encounter the issue that your lawn mower runs for 5 minutes then dies.
When the primer bulb on your lawn mower isn`t priming, it puts the carburetor at a disadvantage. Designed to replace air in the fuel lines and carburetor with gasoline when you depress the button several times, a primer bulb provides a crucial service that makes starting the engine easier.
Your lawn mower runs for 30 minutes then dies if you are having issues such as a bad spark plug, air problems, a malfunctioning carburetor, or a faulty gas cap. You may even encounter the issue that your lawn mower runs for 5 minutes then dies.
Use Carburetor Cleaner

Fortunately, you can generally do this without even taking the carburetor out of the engine. Start by purchasing some commercial lawnmower carburetor cleanerOpens a new window, which comes in a simple spray can and will make it easy to clean the inside and outside of the carb.

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

While trying to start, primed 3 times, pulled, starts, runs until primed gas runs out then stops, tried emptying out old gas replaced w/new gas, opened air cleaner, clean. tried starting w/o air cleaner on, same results,
ANSWER : Hi frankdhun…

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.Make sure you are using fresh fuel…and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate me 4 thumbs up

I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

Weed eater starts but won't stay running – Weedeater 19 in 25cc Gas Hedge Trimmer
ANSWER : Probably “gum” and “varnish” build-up clogging the TINY passages [called ‘galleries”] inside the carb!

This might be lengthy but I want to give all the information first to try and find some help. First off, the engine is a 17.5 Hp Briggs and Stratton 31c707-0603-E1on an MTD Yard Machine mower. I had to replace the steering shaft and so lifted the mower up to rest on its back end. Not able to break the screw loose I got the grinder and cut off the screw but also caught the mower on fire but just around the gas tank, and steering wheel, no damage to the engine. Now the problem, since I put it back together the mower will start but dies immediately, almost as if it runs out of gas. A few times it has started and I have been able to mow with it for 10 or 15 minutes and again it dies. So far I have replaced the carburetor, gas lines, gas filter, new air filters, fresh gas, new oil, and new plug, checked the gap on the armature, replaced the gas cap, and inspected the gas tank for damage. Gas flows freely through the lines when removed. If I take off the air filter and hold my hand over it to block all air I can keep it running by limiting the air flow into the carb, but it has to be very limited or it dies. It always starts easy but dies quickly. I wonder if it could be a head gasket or burnt valve and will tear into the next but really wanted to ask advice on anything else I might have overlooked. Before I tipped it up it ran great so I have to wonder what happened after I tipped it. I am at a loss and appreciate any advice on this.
ANSWER : Hi, based on what you have said the problem is with the fuel shut off solenoid in the bottom of the carby (if equipped). Or the voltage supply to the solenoid. The solenoid must have 12 volts to it when the key is in the start and run positions and should click when turned on and off. The fire may have damaged the wiring or connection on the key switch. Hope this helps, regards Phil

I have a Ryobi RHT 2660DA Hedge trimmer that will not start. I have tried the following things;
1. Replacing the spark plug. There is a good spark on both the old and new plug.
2. Adjusted the carburetor as suggested.
3. Put a teaspoon of fuel into the spark plug hole directly. Does not even try.
4. Tried easy start in the spark plug hole directly and into carburetor. No joy.
5. Took off carburetor and cleaned a suggested. No joy.
6. Replaced the available diaphragms (4 in all). No joy.
7. Replace carburetor with a new one. Same result.
8. Checked compression which was only about 50 per square inch.
9. Checked tightness of crankcase screws. All tight.
10. Replace crankcase gasket. Still same compression result. Again no joy.
11. This machine is about 5 years old but only used about 5 or 6 times so should not be a wear problem.
12. Replace mixture (did this early on in the sequence)
13. Took off exhaust which was full of fluid. Cleaned and dried, but to no avail.
14. Stripped unit down as I started to believe this was a timing or compression problems, but I cannot get the bottom clutch unit off (do not know how to remove it as it looks like an interference fit on the shaft. As a result I cannot get to the flywheel to see whether the key way or key has sheared or the timing has somehow moved.

I am now at a lost of a way forward. I would appreciate any help or suggestions. At the moment I am left with what is an expensive piece of junk.

ANSWER :

Troy Bilt Lawn Mower pull Cord broken
ANSWER : There should be four bolts holding the cover on that houses the pull cord assembly take the bolts out look inside you should see the rest of the broken cord at the other end there is a spool that the cord rolls up in to pull the cord until it stops the other end of the cord is a not in the cord pull on the knot the broken peice should come out turn the spool 2 times in the direction that is against the pressre while holding the spool in place feed the new cord in through the whole that you pulled the broken cord out of then tie the cord in a knot wind the rest of the cord up then feed the other end of the cord through the new pull handle tie the cord in a knot put the housing back on

My Husqvarna 41 will run fine for a while (up to 3 tank fulls of gas) then other times it will start and run but then bog down like under a load (but I just holding it and not cutting anything. Other times it will start then when you pull the handled to rev it it bogs and dies. I replaced the air filter, spark plug, carburetor, and fuel line. The old fuel line became brittle at the filter and broke, and I replaced it. The new gas line is a little smaller than the original. I got an OEM gas line but no mater what I tried I could not get it in. I could not get the new filter onto the new line so it doesn’t have a filter on it right now. In review. Chainsaw would bog down and stall (the engine would have a lower pitch to it). I replaced all the items listed above and still it does this. One other point the stop switch does not work and I have to use the choke to stop the chainsaw. Could this be the stop switch?

Mike

ANSWER : Does this describe your problem.? ‘Engine does not deliver full power or runs erratically’Possible faults – Muffler carbonized, Piston rings leaking or broken, Secondary air seepage through leaking gaskets on carburetor spacer flange / poorly mounted or faulty manifold.