neumatic problem, it I am not sure how to trouble shoot
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Check to see if any stored pressure remains in the system, because this stored pressure can cause premature actuation of the system`s actuators and cause injury to personnel and damage to the machine.
Pneumatic cylinder failure typically results from five different conditions: side-load mounting, contamination, lack of lubrication, out-of-sync cycle rates and operation in excess of component limits.
The force created by the pneumatic cylinder is adjustable. By adjusting the pneumatic circuit pressure using the regulator, it is possible to increase or decrease the pressure in the pneumatic cylinder. This change in pressure results in a proportional change in the force developed by the pneumatic cylinder.
The most common problems are likely to be a slow-moving or drifting actuator, insufficient pressure, issues with valves or the filtration unit. You can learn more about pneumatic systems and some of the most common issues here.
Never blow compressed air at anyone. Don`t turn the main air supply on until the circuit is connected up. Disconnected pipes can whip round and cause injury. If air is leaking from a joint – turn the air off. Always turn air off before altering the circuit.
Fail open means a valve would open at a loss of signal or power. These types of valves require air pressure to stay closed. Once the required air pressure is gone, the valve will naturally open. Under a power outage, the source of the air pressure would be lost and the valve would “fail” open.
Condensation, water buildup, dirt and rust inside the tool or air lines will also cause problems that result in poor performance and shortened tool life.
Risks Associated with Pneumatic Tool Use. The main danger facing tradespeople and weekend warriors alike is the risk of getting hit by one of the pneumatic tool`s attachments or by the nails, rivets, staples or other fasteners being applied with the tool.
Moving the control valve in the closing direction of course causes the flow to decrease.
The first step is to visually check the control valve and all its accessories. Check for any air leakage or physical damage. If found any issues then correct them. Check the air supply from the air filter regulator (AFR) to the valve positioner or solenoid valve whichever is applicable.
According to OSHA, the main danger of pneumatic tools is the powerful air pressure, which can shoot objects across the room at high velocity. Drill attachments and fasteners, such as nails or staples, can fly off and become airborne hazards.
Wear safety glasses or goggles, or a face shield (with safety glasses or goggles), and, where necessary, safety shoes or boots and hearing protection. Post warning signs where pneumatic tools are used.
The goal of troubleshooting is to determine why something does not work as expected and explain how to resolve the problem. The first step in the troubleshooting process is to describe the problem completely. Problem descriptions help you and IBM® Software Support know where to start to find the cause of the problem.
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How to remove the blade on a tiger saw quick-change,model#737?
At the base of the blade where it attaches in the saw you will see a round in shape with ridges fixture. Turn it so the slot is in line with the blade. Then you will be able to remove the blade. If the fixture does not turn, move the blade up and down while you turn the fixture.
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Unable to help. What is problem on what product?
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When you say ‘going forwaed’, is that while mowing or does it do it without the blades engaged or ‘not mowing’?
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Try bleeding all the air out of the system or the new pump might be faulty.
Blades will not engage but will remain running
It is most likely the switch. I had the same problem and that fixed. I found the switch on Amazon for less than $20.
Stens 430-798 PTO Switch Replaces Scag 483957
42cc 2cycle poulan chain saw does not start spark plug fires has fuel, fuel in fuel lines seems there is some blow-back in the carb when I turn the engine over don’t know much about chain saw motors, if this was a marine 2-cycle outboard I would suspect the reed valve had failed. See no reed valve in the parts list from Poulan. Suspect one of the carburetor “gaskets” performs this function (the vitally important one-way valve into the crankcase that forces fuel to move from the carburetor into the crankcase and ultimately into the cylinder in a 2-stroke engine). 1) What performs the function of the reed valve in a 2 cycle chain saw engine? Is it a carburetor gasket/part of some sort? 2) Will ordering a set of carburetor gaskets from Poulan fix this problem? (they have 2 items called “kit-carb” in the parts manual, no additional specification). Thanks
Here is a Link to a couple of my Tips. They should solve your problems:www.fixya.com/support/r6081405-cleaning_small_engie_carburetorI don’t know anything about outboard motors, so I can’t answer the reed valve question. There is a needle valve on the diaphragm side of the carburetor though. Maybe these two parts perform that operation.Good Luck!Jim
Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
I started the mower but the blades will not turn. I shut it off and was able to manually turn the blades by hand. I also was able to turn the belt wheel under the engine and have it turn the blades. With it running and me on the seat, they don’t turn. With it running; brake engaged; and I pull the mower switch to engage them, the mower wants to die. Two questions: Is there a swtich on the seat to insure the blades can not turn while no one is on the seat? Is there a key between the belt wheel and the PTO shaft that needs to be replaced? Thank you.
Most all riders have a safety seat switch now and they do malfuction alot. They are under the seat and are ez to replace most of the time. First look for a wire that is grounding due to rubbing a sharp object. That can be fixed with black tape