t…….I increased the idle speed, checked the fuel filter, took the bottom plate off the carb and sprayed cleaner through the holes there and the membrane was intact…..I couldn’t get the top plate of the carb off due to one screw that is unreachable due to overhanging portion of the carb. Fuel is reaching the carb from the tank. I installed a new, hot plug and have fire. The air cleaner is clean. I am using a fuel mix that is no older than 2 months. How do I adjust the high/low screws on the carb? They have no slot for a screwdriver. What else can I do? Thanks.
18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

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Hi Jack, I will try to help you out. As far as the high/low screws go turn them in (clockwise) until lightly seated so no damage is done to the needles or the seats. Now turn them both out 1 turn but also remember the position so you can go back to it if you have to. That is the suggested basic adjustment. The saw should run at this setting and sometimes is bang on. If everything is OK with the carb only minor adjustments should do it. When adjusting go 1/8 turn at a time. Because of idle problems start with the low speed mixture needle. Turn out (counterclockwise) 1/8 turn and try running your saw. Do that 5 or 6 times, if no good results go back to starting position. You might try the high speed mixture needle the same way to see what happens. ( Always remember the starting position of the adjusting screw) The one thing to be careful of when adjusting the carb is not to adjust the high speed needle less than 1 turn out (counterclockwise) from a lightly seated position. The reason is you don’t want to run it too lean (less gas more air) which could damage the engine because it could overheat. The gas and air mixture also helps with cooling. Try any adjustments as long as you don’t go too lean. Inside these types of carburetors there is a mesh type filter which is very, very fine, so if anything even dust gets in, this mesh will stop it, so it is something to check out, it is a common problem. You say you took the cap off the bottom, that is usually the metering side. It is critical that the diaphragms (membrane as you call it) be installed very accurately. From what you describe you did a very good job of checking everything out, so what could be needed is a carburetor overhaul, unless it is something that is intermittent, which is a pain. I hope I have helped you out even a little. All the best and good luck.

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If the filter becomes clogged, not enough fuel will reach the engine for it to run properly. Because your chainsaw will idle, but dies when it is revved up to full power, it means that the filter is only partially clogged; it will allow enough fuel to the engine to run on idle, but not enough to sustain full throttle.
Oil, dirt, and debris can block them, preventing the air from flowing into the engine. If the idle port of your chainsaw gets blocked or damaged, your chainsaw won`t stay running. Check the idle port for damage or blockage. If it`s blocked, you can clean it using alcohol, kerosene, or any solvent.
Over time, the spark arrestor can become clogged with soot. If the spark arrestor is clogged, the chainsaw may run stall or run rough. To unclog the spark arrestor, remove it and clean it with a wire brush. You can also replace the spark arrestor.
Most chainsaws idle at around 2,800 to 3,200 revolutions per minute, or RPMs. At this speed, the crankshaft continues to spin, but the clutch doesn`t. When the trigger is pressed and the engine speeds up, the force pushes outward on the clutch.
If the chainsaw won`t start, or starts and then stops and you find the spark plug wet with fuel mixture, it means that the engine is flooded (you will probably smell petrol). It happens when too much fuel enters the combustion chamber, possibly because you have pressed the primer many times.
To fix the problem, start by draining the gas tank.

Replace the old gas with a fresh mix of gas, being sure to add a stabilizer to keep the ethanol from gelling. Often, just getting fresh gas and stabilizer through the chainsaw`s fuel system may correct the saw and it should stay running.

If your chainsaw does not start, the fuel may be too hot. To prevent this from happening, always use fresh fuel and reduce your operating time when the weather is warm. If your chainsaw will not start, place it in a cool area away from sunlight for at least 20 minutes.
There are three main reasons for a chain to come off: Incorrect bar and/or chain for the saw; check to be sure that you are using the proper chain pitch, gauge and number of drive links to match the guide bar. Chain not properly tensioned; It is normal for a new chain to stretch and require frequent adjustment.
Set idle speed adjusting screw, clockwise to increase rpm, counter-clockwise to decrease rpm. Idle rpm range should be 950 to 1050 rpms. Adjust idle mixture by turning idle mixture screw slowly clockwise until the engine runs poorly.
Typically we recommend a break in period of 6-10 tanks of fuel. During this period the engine should not be allowed to run at high RPMs for extended periods of time.
The carburetor on a chain saw is pretty simple, as carbs go, but it`s not entirely uncomplicated. The job of the carb is to accurately meter extremely tiny quantities of fuel and mix it with the air entering the engine so that the engine runs properly.
If your chainsaw shuts down when turned sideways, it is usually because the fuel filter is held away from the fuel, as the position of the chainsaw has changed. The fuel filter must be able to stay in the fuel as the position of the chainsaw is changed.
If the heat riser is stuck in the closed position it will cause excessive heat under the carburetor and boil the fuel causing flooding and hard starting when the engine is hot. 3. When there is excessive fuel pressure. Excessive fuel pump pressure can be caused by a defective or worn out fuel pump.
My chain saw starts and then dies what is wrong? This could be a number of things and is most likely fuel or storage related. Over a short period of time, fuel will become stale. If the unit is stored with stale gasoline, the system will become clogged or restricted.
The fuel line may be clogged from stale fuel deposits, more reasons to cause your chainsaw to cut out when applying throttle. If a fuel line is cracked, it will leak gasoline and draw air from outside into the fuel line. If the line is leaking fuel, it needs to be replaced.
My chain saw starts and then dies what is wrong? This could be a number of things and is most likely fuel or storage related. Over a short period of time, fuel will become stale. If the unit is stored with stale gasoline, the system will become clogged or restricted.
The carburetor might be clogged. A clogged carburetor is often caused by leaving fuel in the chainsaw for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the chainsaw engine to stall.
The carburetor might be clogged. A clogged carburetor is often caused by leaving fuel in the chainsaw for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the chainsaw engine to stall.
The carburetor might be clogged. A clogged carburetor is often caused by leaving fuel in the chainsaw for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the chainsaw engine to stall.

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This saw will start maybe once a day….when running it seems OK but will not idle…..It will not idle and once it dies there is no starting it…….I increased the idle speed, checked the fuel filter, took the bottom plate off the carb and sprayed cleaner through the holes there and the membrane was intact…..I couldn’t get the top plate of the carb off due to one screw that is unreachable due to overhanging portion of the carb. Fuel is reaching the carb from the tank. I installed a new, hot plug and have fire. The air cleaner is clean. I am using a fuel mix that is no older than 2 months. How do I adjust the high/low screws on the carb? They have no slot for a screwdriver. What else can I do? Thanks.
ANSWER : Hi Jack, I will try to help you out. As far as the high/low screws go turn them in (clockwise) until lightly seated so no damage is done to the needles or the seats. Now turn them both out 1 turn but also remember the position so you can go back to it if you have to. That is the suggested basic adjustment. The saw should run at this setting and sometimes is bang on. If everything is OK with the carb only minor adjustments should do it. When adjusting go 1/8 turn at a time. Because of idle problems start with the low speed mixture needle. Turn out (counterclockwise) 1/8 turn and try running your saw. Do that 5 or 6 times, if no good results go back to starting position. You might try the high speed mixture needle the same way to see what happens. ( Always remember the starting position of the adjusting screw) The one thing to be careful of when adjusting the carb is not to adjust the high speed needle less than 1 turn out (counterclockwise) from a lightly seated position. The reason is you don’t want to run it too lean (less gas more air) which could damage the engine because it could overheat. The gas and air mixture also helps with cooling. Try any adjustments as long as you don’t go too lean. Inside these types of carburetors there is a mesh type filter which is very, very fine, so if anything even dust gets in, this mesh will stop it, so it is something to check out, it is a common problem. You say you took the cap off the bottom, that is usually the metering side. It is critical that the diaphragms (membrane as you call it) be installed very accurately. From what you describe you did a very good job of checking everything out, so what could be needed is a carburetor overhaul, unless it is something that is intermittent, which is a pain. I hope I have helped you out even a little. All the best and good luck.

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

My petrol lwan mower won’t start! I have checked the spark plug and cleaned it, checked the air filter and have also cleaned it they are fine. I have also taken the carburettor to bits and have cleaned it and still no joy. It has a full tank of petrol and the oil is fresh also. I checked the air line and the petrol pipe and these are all ok. When i sprayed quick start into the air filter my lawn mower started up straight away. Then cut out once it had used it up. my throttle plate had also snapped which i fixed and my clutch cable had also come loose which i have tightened and is now fine. The lawn mower is only 3 years old and has not been used for 2 years as my neighbour just went out and brought a new one. so i am trying to get this one started as my electric one has just died on me. I have also been having a go at setting the carb today buy adjusting the air pin but still no joy. It is firing though but just wont start!!! can anyone else suggest anything that might be wrong. Also do these have chokes as i can not find one for it. MY LAWN MOWER IS A POWER DEVIL 3.5HP
ANSWER : When you sprayed the quick start into the thing and it started and ran out, I think the answer sits here you also said you pulled the carb apart to bits it is apparent to me you did not do a thorough job!! Just the fact that you stated that it has not been started for two years tells me that you are having petrol movement problems. For one thing to get started check all the little orifices associated with petrol movement this is surely where you will find your answer to get the machine running, I know this for a fact. You will receive joy just as soon as all your do diligence is finished. If you cannot find the choke on your machine you surely cannot buy one for it. Maybe this repair stuff is just not your thing, maybe as your neighbor before you, you should maybe go shopping and then you will achieve the full amount of joy you are in such desperate need for. Going from electric power to petrol power is a total different world. I think that now my answer to your question is almost as long as your question, so I will be stopping because my fingers are tired of all this typing, GO BLACK HAWKS! Good luck PAL

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

I have a craftsman 25 cc string trimmer with fuel problems. After winter, ran tank of good fuel through it and it worked fine. Added fuel (unknowingly with water in it) and it ran on a slow idle and finally died. Drained fuel, took carb apart and cleaned, blowed out carb and reassembled. Still only ran on a slow idle – no throttle response. Took cover off with air cleaner and it ran fine. Seems to blow too much fuel out where filter sits. Put filter back on and runs on slow idle. Almost seems it is flooding, but have not adjusted anything, just cleaned. What do I need to do next?
ANSWER : You shouldn’t notice a difference if you remove the air filter. So I would replace it. Also if you are using compressed air to clean or blow-out the carb. Be careful, its not recommended and could make it worse.

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

HOW DO YOU ADJUST HIGH AND LOW SPEEDS ON HOMELITE BLOWER UTO8087 IF ONLY 1 SCREW ADJUSTMENT. 1 PORT FAC. PLUGED OFF.WHAT SHOULD IDLE RPM LOW B APPROX./ HIGH RPM
ANSWER : All the pictures I have of this carb show two adjusting screws.

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw

Husqvarna 142e will not stay running. Going through the sequence of full/half choke it will start and run at high rpm when choked. Even after warmed up, it will die within a few seconds after dropping the choke and going to an idle. I set the idle adjustment all the way up and that did nothing. I tore the whole unit down and could find nothing obvious with the fuel line. Changed the fuel twice, cleaned the spark plug, blew out the air filter…what am I missing?
ANSWER : Hi,
If it is only running high at full choke – then it is not getting enough fuel.
You’ve cleaned out the whole thing – so it’s not air that’s the problem. It’s running – so it’s not a spark problem – it’s a fuel problem.

If you have a fuel filter – change it out or clean it properly. If the fuel line is clear, then you need to adjust the running setting of the carb – there are usually 2 setting knobs -one for idle – one for running / mix.
You need it running richer till you get it going – then trim it back to stop it smoking and get a good rev.

Read Full Q/A … : 18″ Wild Thing Chainsaw