Hi Byron, there are a couple of versions of the Kawasaki #KRB750B backpack blower, so please check the first link below to get the parts list for your model. I’ve looked up a couple and the 2nd link below shows what I’ve found on the Kawasaki website for parts for these units.
Select model number from this list:
http://kmcb2c.econnect.partsandwarranty.com/kmcb2c/Menu?action=CATALOGB2B&chID=302125&elementType=1&historyDepth=-1&CHANGENUMBEROFITEMS=63
Here’s one of the exploded drawings with parts available, etc.
http://kmcb2c.econnect.partsandwarranty.com/kmcb2c/Menu?action=CATALOGB2B&prodID=3169045&elementType=2&historyDepth=2&CHANGENUMBEROFITEMS=63
Once you’ve confirmed the model variation you’ve got, you can then contact either a local Kawasaki dealer or check the internet for a supplier that can sell you what you need.
As far as taking the unit apart, make sure that the gas is drained into a gas container and then allow it to stay vented before you begin taking the blower apart. My suggestion is to take a picture with either your digital camera or camera phone, of the unit BEFORE you start taking things apart and at EACH step as you remove a part (screw, etc.) so you’ll be able to refer back to those pictures when you start to reassemble it. That and the line drawings at the above links, will make it much easier to recall just where each part goes and how it went together.
You can also use the Dealer Locator feature on the Kawasaki site to find one near you, or to call and place your parts order, etc.
By the way, I did read your question and noted that you DID put in the brand and part number for your blower, so thank you for providing enough information to help me resolve your problem!
I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
If the piston rings or the cylinder are worn, your blower will lose power. These parts can become damaged for many reasons, such as running your blower with an incorrect fuel ratio. The most common reason to replace this part is because the piston rings are worn.
Leaf blowers emit outsized levels of hydrocarbons from burned and unburned fuel, carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, and reactive organic gases. These go on to form low-level ozone, which causes the much-reviled brown smog that hovers over cities.
This is caused by a rich/lean cycle at idle. As the motor leans out the RPM`s increase and richen up the motor, when the motor richens the RPM`s decrease and the motor leans out again. This continual cycle is known as “blower surge”.
For starters, the best backpack leaf blowers run for a long time: 30 to 60 minutes for battery-powered models and even longer for gas models, provided you refuel them. Most battery-powered handhelds run for just 12 to 15 minutes.
All backpack leaf blowers depend on a small gas engine for power. That means that the engine in your blower may be one of two kinds: 2-cycle engine. 4-cycle engine.
If raking is more labor than you`re willing to deal with, a leaf blower is a better choice. Leaf blowers not only work faster than rakes and take less effort but can also perform many tasks that rakes and mowers can`t.
A leaf blower is a great example of a broad spectrum noise with strong tonal components. Lawn maintenance men think you`re kinda crazy when you say you want to record the noise of their equipment. The tuner app on my phone identified the sound as an A3, the A below middle C, or 220 Hz.
Blowers can largely be classified into two categories: impeller based and positive displacement. Impeller based blowers have fins that radiate outwards from a rotating central axis. Positive displacement blowers use a mechanism of filling and emptying chambers at the inlet and outlet, respectively, to create flow.
Leftover fuel in your leaf blower is one of the primary reasons a leaf blower won`t start. Gas left in the tank for 30 days or more can deteriorate, causing the engine to stall or not start properly. If left for 6 months or more, the gasoline can turn into a thick sludge.
Power surges happen when there is a massive spike in your electrical system`s current. They only last about a fraction of a second, but can cause lifelong damages to any outlets or plugged-in appliances. This is due to the power surge overloading the circuits connected to your electrical system.
Like other components in your HVAC system, the blower motor can wear down over time. Some of the reasons a blower motor might fail are overheating, and excessive moisture. When dust, dirt, and debris build up, it can cause the windings and bearings to burn up more quickly.
Blower motor breakdown can be the result of anything from old age to failed bearings, high amp draw, electrical failure in the windings, dirt accumulation, and more. “The most common cause is dirt accumulation due to lack of maintenance,” said Tom Beaulieu, president of Bay Area Services Inc.
The gas engine on your leaf blower needs to operate at a specific temperature: hot enough to burn the fuel and give the engine power but cool enough not to overheat the piston. An overheating problem in the leaf blower is generally caused by a failure to vent gases or the fuel burning too hot inside the cylinder.
Depending on its intended use, a cordless leaf blower with a CFM between 400-700 should be powerful enough to greatly ease your fall yard chores. If you have a small yard with little debris, choose one with 200-400 CFM.
A 4-cycle engine has the potential to produce more power than a 2-cycle engine but will require an increase in the engine`s size. If comfort is an important factor for you, consider buying a lighter-weight 2-cycle leaf blower.
You should look for a blower with 450-500 CFM and 150-190 MPH ratings.
Leaf Blower Features
If in doubt, opt for a model with a higher CFM. Look for a leaf blower that feels balanced in your hand and moves and adjusts easily. Functions such as speed control and the shutoff should be easy to reach, ideally allowing for one-handed operation. Also, pay attention to the design of the nozzle.
If you have a small yard and are diligent about keeping up with leaves as they fall—or if you want to surgically suck up leaves from around bushes and flower beds—the vacuum mode on your leaf blower can save time and effort.
Plants, through photosynthesis, and soils sequester roughly a third of carbon dioxide emissions released into the atmosphere each decade from the burning of fossil fuels. During photosynthesis, plants open tiny pores on their leaf surfaces to suck carbon dioxide from the air and produce their own food.
However unlikely, at 10,000 PPM of CO2 the photosynthetic rate in the plants will be very low due to the closing of the plant stomata and the exclusion of air into the leaf interior. This level of CO2 is sufficient to cause toxic effect on the plants and cause damage and eventually death of the plant.
Gas-powered leaf blowers are the nosiest at 80 to 90 decibels. Electric models are a bit quieter with a decibel range between 65 and 70. A few new models of electric leaf blowers come in at 59 decibels.
Cubic feet per minute (CFM) is a measurement of the volume of air a leaf blower can produce at wide-open throttle (WOT). The measurement tells us how much space in cubic feet you can fill with air in one minute. The higher the CFM, the larger the area your blower effects and the better you can keep objects moving.
Centrifugal blowers or fans typically are comprised of four main components: a motor, a fan wheel, and housing. A centrifugal blower makes use of rotating impellers that are attached to the fan wheel, which is set within the exterior housing.
External rotor motors — also called cup motors — are brushless dc motors that differ from traditional motor designs employing permanent magnets. They excel in driving an array of blower and fan applications.