ates the output pressure of the water from the pump . . . for example, 1500 psi to 2700 psi. Is it correct to assume that this control regulates the output pressure of the pump. If the control is a pressure regulator, how does one use it and, EVEN MORE IMPORTANT, can one under-adjust or over-adjust the control to a point where THE CONTROL OR THE PUMP would seriously breakdown and/or fail. (There was not a manual with the new pump to tell me the purpose of this control or how the pump should be cared for, especially during a winter season. A website for a Hom 308653045 manual?
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The number one cause of low or no pressure when using a pressure washer is a blocked or worn nozzle. Blocked nozzles will prevent water from escaping, while a worn nozzle will allow too much water to pass through, causing the pressure to drop.
These include a clogged nozzle, a blocked inlet water filter, or a malfunctioning pump. It could even be the water supply itself – not the pressure washer. When troubleshooting pressure washers, the best approach is to check the easiest solution first and rule it out before proceeding to more intensive repairs.
You should also never set your pressure washer above 2,200 psi when washing your car. 1,500 psi is really all you need to get a good deep clean; any pressure higher than that won`t make a noticeable performance difference.
Surging occurs when the pressure is fine and then weakens. It is caused when the flow rate for the pump cannot be supported by the water supply. Problems can mount from there so it is important that it is dealt with as soon as possible.
How Do I Tell If My Unloader Valve is Bad? In most occurrences, the first symptom of an unloader valve going bad is no pressure from the wand when the trigger is pressed. This happens when the unloader valve gets stuck open and does not allow water to enter the hose and trigger.
The difference between regulator and unloader occurs when flow downstream is stopped. A regulator redirects flow through the bypass port, maintaining full system pressure. An unloader valve closes the fluid passageway and traps pressure in the discharge line.
Pressure Washer Nozzles

Settings and nozzles include: 0 degrees (red nozzle) is the most powerful, concentrated nozzle setting. 15 degrees (yellow nozzle) is used for heavy-duty cleaning. 25 degrees (green nozzle) is used for general cleaning.

Types of Pressure Washer Unloader Valves

Two of the more common types are a trapped pressure unloader valve and a flow actuated unloader valve. The trapped pressure unloader valve works by giving water access to the back of the pistons. When you release the trigger, the pressure increases and pushes the spring open.

If your pressure washer starts and runs fine, but there`s no pressure or no water coming from the pump, it could be a clogged wand, hose or inlet filter. Fortunately, this is an easy pressure washer problem to repair.
How Do I Tell If My Unloader Valve is Bad? In most occurrences, the first symptom of an unloader valve going bad is no pressure from the wand when the trigger is pressed. This happens when the unloader valve gets stuck open and does not allow water to enter the hose and trigger.
A pressure washer stalling when the trigger is pulled is mostly due to a faulty unloader valve, O-rings, pressure washer trigger, or a too-high setting of the unloader valve. What is this? The root cause of a stalling issue is usually a problematic unloader valve.
One of the most important features to look for on a large semi-pro gas pressure washer is variable or adjustable pressure controls. This way you can tailor the strength of PSI depending on your cleaning task. Variable pressure is especially important on power washers as powerful as these units.
A pressure washer stalling when the trigger is pulled is mostly due to a faulty unloader valve, O-rings, pressure washer trigger, or a too-high setting of the unloader valve. What is this? The root cause of a stalling issue is usually a problematic unloader valve.
One of the most important features to look for on a large semi-pro gas pressure washer is variable or adjustable pressure controls. This way you can tailor the strength of PSI depending on your cleaning task. Variable pressure is especially important on power washers as powerful as these units.
Surging occurs when the pressure is fine and then weakens. It is caused when the flow rate for the pump cannot be supported by the water supply. Problems can mount from there so it is important that it is dealt with as soon as possible.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Hom Model No. 308653045 gas-operated cold-water pressure washer has a spring-loaded control on it and I am assuming that this control regulates the output pressure of the water from the pump . . . for example, 1500 psi to 2700 psi. Is it correct to assume that this control regulates the output pressure of the pump. If the control is a pressure regulator, how does one use it and, EVEN MORE IMPORTANT, can one under-adjust or over-adjust the control to a point where THE CONTROL OR THE PUMP would seriously breakdown and/or fail. (There was not a manual with the new pump to tell me the purpose of this control or how the pump should be cared for, especially during a winter season. A website for a Hom 308653045 manual?
ANSWER :

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No pressure Pump reassembly. I purchased a new pump and installed it. Got machine back together and I’m not getting any pressure. What would be the signs if I don’t have the shaft key in properly? Or any other suggestions?
Water comes out of nozzle with pressure for a quick second then no pressure, just water. This is a brand new pump so was curious if I installed it wrong. Wondering before taking it apart again.
ANSWER : No pressure would be a sign that the key was not in properly.

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Oil appears to have come out of the oil filler cap. Is this a sign of overfilling the oil, or something else?
ANSWER : Id definitley say its over filled. try checking the dipstick

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My pressure washer will start for a second and then shuts down. I just bought it from a friend and don,t think the springs to the govner are right but not sure.would like a skicamitc of the engine or manual so i can see if they are right
ANSWER : When you start your engine open wand trigger this will probably allow you to get the engine warmed up and I think it’ll work for you it used to work for us .

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What oil do i use in the pump? The oil is milky and needs changing.
ANSWER : Well you can use direct recommended from Ace Hardware see link.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1340266

They recommend 250 hours, but i’d change more often, like you said when it’s milky. If it begins to get water in the oil sooner, that indicates your piston to crankcase seal is beginning to leak.

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Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.

ANSWER : My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?

Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.

Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.

I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.

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Excell Pressure Washer EXHA2425-1 has no pressure. Replaced pump with a new oiled pump from APW Distributing (PW24/2.3L Replacement Pump). After installing the new pup and using the existing wand still no pressure. Replaced the wand with a Blue Hawk 4000 PSI Pressure washer gun kit, still no pressure. Only thing I haven’t replaced is the hose with is not suspect at this point. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
ANSWER : Thermal relief valve would be a start. but is the pump actually turning… are you on city water or well water…

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Need help in getting Honda engine on NorthStar pressure washer to run.
ANSWER : Could be low water pressure I have found.Also, I purchased a can of “stuff” at Lowes today which allows you to circulate a liquid substance which lubricates the pressure pump….the pump could be frozen up…I have a rotating nozzle which I bought…and it had frozen up…this stuff works

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