How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
This condition is known as the engine “flooding out.” Possible causes of too much liquid fuel in the engine include a defective carburetor float that is not closing the fuel inlet needle valve, or debris caught in the needle valve preventing it from sealing.
Most commonly a result of improper starting, “flooding” results from various causes, including over-priming, closed choke, stuck valve, gummed carburetor, or immediately trying to restart an automatic choke engine. The easiest way to tell if your engine is flooded with gas is to remove the spark plug.
Carburetor flooding happens when there is an excessive amount of gasoline entering the carburetor. This can happen when the float in the carburetor is damaged, the needle and seat are dirty, or there is a problem with the vent tube.
A “flooded engine” simply has too much gas in its cylinders, so the spark plugs can`t ignite the fuel-air mix. It can happen for a variety of reasons — most commonly, because you pumped the accelerator pedal too many times when your engine hadn`t been started for a while.
Answer and Explanation: The gasoline overflows due to a natural phenomenon defined as thermal expansion. As the gasoline heats up, it`s volume will increase in proportion to the increase in temperature.
If the regulator is malfunctioning, your engine may flood with fuel or cause decreased gas mileage. Here are symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator and how to test to make sure the fuel pressure regulator is the root of the problem.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My tractor stalls like it is starved for gas although the gas tank is full. I,ve changed the fuel filter and the gas cap. I’ve cleaned out the gas tank, gas lines, and the carburetor bowl. The problem seems more acute when the gas tank is full or near full. At this time to alleviate the problem, I blow through the gas cap and the fuel filter fills with gas and it runs good again. But as soon as the fuel filter has no more gas, of course, it stalls until I blow on the gas cap. As the tank gets down to about 1/3 full, the engine runs OK. What else could cause this condition?
I had a similar problem with a sears tractor. close to the carbarator is a rectangle box with a rubber hose going to the engine block – remove the hose and spray carb cleaner in the hose wait a few mins and try again – its a vacuum for the carb
Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
I have a John Deere LX280 that won’t start. Have good spark, good fuel flow through fuel filter, and fuel in the carb bowl, but no fuel at the either of the plugs. Suspect either the safety shut off switch under the seat, or the solenoid under the carb bowl, but not sure how they are designed to work, or how to bypass them for troubleshooting purposes. Can anyone help shed some light on how the seat switch and carb bowl solenoid work, and offer any suggestions for how to get fuel to the plugs?
The fuel solenoid is 12 VDC. You can power it directly with 12V from the battery with the connector disconnected. It is powered from terminal A1 of the Key Switch with the switch ON. Before powering it up do a resistance check of the coil on the solenoid. It should read 40 Ohms or less.
The seat switch only provides a ground for the ignition. If the starter solenoid is engaging you should also have power to the fuel solenoid. Check for 12VDC on the engine harness for the solenoid with the Key ON. If you have 12VDC the solenoid is bad.
I am answering this post now as it appeared AFTER I had replied to another post. I note your post is 7 days old. Had I seen it 7 days ago I would have answered at that time. Sorry for the belated response.
Having problem getting fuel to carb on JD LA 105 lawn tractor with B&S 19.5 gas engine. I replaced fuel filter and fuel pump but gas will not flow to carb. Gas flows from filter to pump and I can pour gas in line to carb and engine will run until gas runs out of line but gas will not flow through pump. Could new pump be bad , if so how can I check it out?
I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
I need the belt diagram for a 42″ craftsman 20.5 hydro tractor
Do a model search on www.partsdirect.com. This is the website for Sears equipment. Just reminder you will need the model number from under the seat to help you find the right model.
Gas leaking out of center hole on gas cap sears weed trimmer 358795150
I had same problem and got a replacement cap at a small engine shop. Seems there is a baffle in the cap to allow the tank to vent and to close off to prevent fuel leaking. Appears rubber baffle deteriorates over time.
I replaced the fuel solenoid on my 15.5 hp Kohler lawn tractor engine. Removed carb bowl, changed gasket, now it leaks badly. How do I install bowl gasket so it won’t leak?