“Chain Saw – 16” Bar, 3 Hp

Not only one saw but all saws seem to have the same issue and they range in age , old to new
Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
If you have a problem with all saw it must be a element they have in common. It is either fuel or your method of cleaning them. Try not to spray anything that could get behind the flywheel and gunk up the ignition system.Please rate if this helps-

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If your chainsaw still starts and then stops working, check the air filter. Clean or replace the air filter if it is dirty or damaged. Another reason that your chainsaw starts and then stops working could be that the spark arrestor is dirty or clogged. If this is the case, clean it with a wire brush.
There are many factors that can stop your chainsaw from running, including a bad spark plug or dirty air filter. There are simple problems: a broken fuel line, bad fuel, wrongly calibrated high-low adjustment screw. Also, more complex issues like a damaged carburettor or an engine compression problem.
1. Dull chain and or improper lubrication to the bar and chain, sharpen and or clean the bars oil holes. 2. Air filter and fuel filter for restrictions and contamination, clean or replace as needed.
Over time, the spark arrestor can become clogged with soot. If the spark arrestor is clogged, the chainsaw may run stall or run rough. To unclog the spark arrestor, remove it and clean it with a wire brush. You can also replace the spark arrestor.
If the filter becomes clogged, not enough fuel will reach the engine for it to run properly. Because your chainsaw will idle, but dies when it is revved up to full power, it means that the filter is only partially clogged; it will allow enough fuel to the engine to run on idle, but not enough to sustain full throttle.
The insulator is a plastic block that mounts between the carburetor and the engine, and insulates the carburetor from engine heat. If the insulator is cracked it can let extra air into the engine, causing it to surge. When there is too much air in the cylinder, the mixture is referred to as lean.
Dirty Carburetor (air+fuel)

If fuel sits in the system for too long, the carburetor (and the engine and fuel lines) can become sticky and clog. Remove the air filter and spray the carburetor with carb cleaner—an aerosolized acetone spray made to remove the gunk.

This most commonly is a result of a dull chain and exerting to much pressure on the bar and chain trying to make the chain saw cut. This could also be either a lack of bar and chain oil ( tank empty, restricted oiler hole ) or an inferior type of oil that is being slung off the chain and not lubricating.
If your chainsaw shuts down when turned sideways, it is usually because the fuel filter is held away from the fuel, as the position of the chainsaw has changed. The fuel filter must be able to stay in the fuel as the position of the chainsaw is changed.
There could be various causes: incorrect fuel mixture, carburation not calibrated properly, or a wet spark plug. In spite of their power and robustness, chainsaws are actually rather delicate machines that require careful and precise maintenance at every stage of their life cycle.
The carburetor might be clogged. A clogged carburetor is often caused by leaving fuel in the chainsaw for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the chainsaw engine to stall.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

I have a craftsman 25 cc string trimmer with fuel problems. After winter, ran tank of good fuel through it and it worked fine. Added fuel (unknowingly with water in it) and it ran on a slow idle and finally died. Drained fuel, took carb apart and cleaned, blowed out carb and reassembled. Still only ran on a slow idle – no throttle response. Took cover off with air cleaner and it ran fine. Seems to blow too much fuel out where filter sits. Put filter back on and runs on slow idle. Almost seems it is flooding, but have not adjusted anything, just cleaned. What do I need to do next?
ANSWER : You shouldn’t notice a difference if you remove the air filter. So I would replace it. Also if you are using compressed air to clean or blow-out the carb. Be careful, its not recommended and could make it worse.

My cub cadet tank stops running 5-20 minuts after i start mowing but will run on full choke, have taken carb apart and cleaned well , bypassed fuel filter, cleaned air filter, checked plug , changed fuel but none have helped , could i need a carb kit ? ????
ANSWER : Yes you may need a carb kit. It is not good practice to by-pass the fuel filter. The orifice in the jet is very small.But anyways, There Could still be a blockage inside the carb, a small leak at the manifold, or the jet is worn out.Let me know how it goes.

Saw starts runs good for a while then quits – Poulan Pro Chain Saw 46cc 20"
ANSWER : Try this out. I have the same issue. When its acts like it wants to quit, crack open the fuel cap. The cap has a small breather in it and if that gets clogged it will starve fuel.

I have a 266 se husky saw and I can not get it to start, there is spark and fresh fuel in the saw, I have put a kit in the carb and the saw will fire but stop, it appears to flood with fuel after a short period of time while attempting to start it.The saw was running fine until the carb came loose on the barrel but I have been unsucessful at getting it to run since I have replaced the gasket between the carb and cylinder.
ANSWER : It probably damaged the diaphram when the carb came loose. you could try adjusting the carb. that will solve it every once in a while.

I have a Echo leaf blower and I can get it running but then it’s cuts off after just a few seconds. It has new plug, air filter and fuel filter. What else could it be?
ANSWER : The carburetor could be dirty and need a good cleaning and you could first remove the fuel pump cover (cover without the vent hole) to the carburetor and look for the small, round, fine-mesh screen. Sometimes it gets covered with dirt and debris and has to be cleaned as it allows the fuel to flow into the metering side of the carburetor.