Flco95w Grow Light System

Upgrading one standard 4′ flourescent light fixture with the new smaller ballast resistor ( Intellivolt Centium ICN-2P32-N) for higher efficiency. The new ballast only has two blue wires and one red. On the oposite side are the standard black and white wires. the previous ballast had yellows and reds, and now I’m not certain of how to connect this new ballast to the existing fixture terminals. Can you help and thanks in advance.

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For energy savings, reliability, and longevity – replace ballasts – not bulbs. In addition to energy efficiency issues, older ballasts simply do not offer the reflection geometry newer options do.
Reducing Operational Cost by Replacing Magnetic ballasts

An electronic ballast is far more energy efficient than a magnetic ballast.

It will overheat and burn out.
Simply turn the light on, then take a photo of the fixture using your smartphone or digital camera. If there are no dark bands on the resulting image, you have an electronic ballast that is likely to work with direct drop-in LED tubes (with caveats: see the next section below).
Instant Start Ballast

This is the most efficient type of ballast. With instant start ballasts you must know the burn time of your lamps.

The most efficient ballasts are electronic, or high-frequency ballasts. These typically boost the frequency of the electricity from 60 cycles per second (hertz) to between 25,000 to 40,000 hz. At the higher frequency, the fluorescent lamps are more efficiently excited.
According to the Certified Ballast Manufacturers Association, the average magnetic ballast lasts about 75,000 hours, or 12 to 15 years with normal use. The optimum economic life of a fluorescent lighting system with magnetic ballasts is usually about 15 years.
Unscrew both screws on the ballast, typically located on either side of it. Once you`ve removed it, you can simply throw the ballast away. Install new ballast. Insert the new ballast.
Individual wires of one ballast connect to the one side of the fixture, individual wires from the other ballast connect to the other side of the fixture. The common wires of each ballast are connected to the other side of the fixture from each of the individual wires.

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Replacing old ballast with new high efficient ballast and wiring

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Looking for a wiring diagram for a ford 9n tractor, Messed up wiring on old tractor when trying to tune it up. Now may have the wiring messed up at the fuse link on the back of the dash
ANSWER : Try this website if you do not get help here:mytractorforum.comYou will have to register to ask questions, but there is a good chance that you will be able to find what you need already posted there. Good Luck.

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I have an older Kubota tractor, model B7100 HST. Was running the tractor and had electrical smoke/short? Took the dash off and noticed that the regulator was fried and melted no other apparent damage. I assumed the problem was within the regulator……..bad mistake. Bought a new regulator. Hooked up all the wires and started the tractor. Seemed to run fine and shut it down. Used the tractor for about 10-15 minutes the next day noticed smoke once again coming from under the dash. Shut the machine down. Everything within the dash wiring bundle was fried. I mean really messed up. Wires were melted together new regulator was toast – literally! So I assumed once again that there was a short within the dash wiring bundle since none of the damage occured past the main connection between the dash and the wiring bundle that leads to the rest of the engine, starter etc.
I ordered a new complete dash wiring bundle, and new regulator. Hooked it all up and turned the ignition key and smoke just started again. Unhooked the battery immediately. Seems I caught it in time without doing any damage – I hope. The only thing I have not changed within the dash is the ignition switch. Spoke to one of the machanics at Kubota and I suggested perhaps it was the igntion switch? He didnt think so but didnt really know what to suggest. He suggested looking down the entire length of the wiring bundle for any wires that maybe have worn through and “gone to ground”. I have looked but nothing is apparent. I should also mention that in all instances NONE of the three fuses within the dash have blown. The fact that none of the other part of the wiring harness past the dash main harness connection makes a person believe the problem is occuring within the dash? I’m thinking of replacing the switch.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks, Barry
ANSWER : It does sound like a dead ground inside the ignition switch and I don’t know why the mechanic didn’t tell you that since it’s not the first time they have heard about this issue.

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One of my two hps bulbs is brighter than the other one the bulbs and one of the ballast are new the other ballast is a year old
ANSWER : Hi .. it could be the ballast .. an easy thing to do to troubleshoot this would be to swap the lamps. If the problem follows the lamp. then that is the problem. If the pronblem stays with the fixture, then I would replace the ballast in that fixture.

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All wiring disconnected need wiring diagram – Simer 1 Hp 230 Volt 3 Wire Submersible Well Pump, 4"
ANSWER : Http://www.simerpump.com/pdf/SIM280.pdf

This is a full manual, check your model number, though.


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Need a wiring diagram for a StaRite water pump 220V/110V with capacitor.Using a110V supply
ANSWER : Sta-rite pump is humming and no water

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”UV” light not working!!
ANSWER : I`ve always used one ballast to one light.i.e if your bulb is a 400 you need a 400 ballast only and feeding no more off it. Try this

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I think my PTO clutch went out?? I have an old cub cadet 682 bought new in 1986. First the ignition switch went out and after I replaced that, it started right up but when I fliped the switch to start the mower nothing happened. I replaced the PTO switch a few years ago and I’ve had some problems with loose wiring at the connection of the PTO switch but I was always able to tighten it up and get the mower deck running again. I noticed that the plastic housing around the 3 socket connection appeared to be melted at the point where the connector attaches to the wire that goes to the fuse so I replaced it with individual connectors since I would have to buy the whole wiring harness just to get the piece I needed, but still nothing, not even a click. when the mower runs without the belt the pulley turns but when the belt is on, even loosely, it won’t turn at all. I ran a wire directly from the battery to the wire leading to the PTO clutch and the clutch makes a click sound but that’s it. Is there any other test I could do to be sure it’s the clutch before I spend the money for a new one? Thank you!!
ANSWER : It sounds to me you have done an extensive testing routine you might as well admit its time for a new clutch but i give you a lot of credit if no one else will.

hope this helps you

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