it be the little relay or capicitor on side of motor that has wires going to on & off switch

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Hi steve_shouse
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and cranking the engine or by pulling the crank rope…watching the plug for spark.If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A…If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.Take a picture for later reassembly.
B…Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.Then follow the procedure below:————————————————————————————Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line/s condition…after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate me Bud

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :

When the power washer does not turn on, it is either due to no water flow or no electricity going to the power washer. In other words, either a water or electrical problem.
A power washer that won`t start after running out of gas likely suffers from an air-locked fuel system or dirt in the carburetor. Draining the gas bowl very often fixes the issue.
If the pressure washer does not start, then the first thing to check is the fuse in the plug.
Begin isolating the problem by hooking a water hose to the washer`s inlet and turning it on. If water flows out the outlet, you know water is cycling through. If not, chances are your inlet filter is clogged. Remove and clean it, and you should be good to go.
Fuel that has been stored for over thirty days can go bad and damage key components on your pressure washer. If possible, drain the remaining fuel into an approved container, like a gas can.. If that`s not possible, add fuel stabilizer to prevent the gas from breaking down and gumming up engine components.
Equipment Safety

Overfilling oil may cause smoking, hard starting, spark plug fouling, and oil saturation of the air filter. Do not run the pressure washer before connecting and turning on the water supply failing to do so will result in damage to the pump.

There are 2 fuses for the wiper/washer system. If your windshield wipers work, then they are both good. One fuse is located in the under-hood fuse block (wiper fuse #14 , 25amp). The second fuse is located on the body control module, which is located inside the center console, behind the panel on the right side of it.
If your well pump starts and runs but doesn`t build pressure, there may be damage to bearing, impeller, or seal, or a faulty check valve. Debris or scale clogging the impeller, a failing bearing or seal, and a broken impeller blade will all make the pump run with no buildup of pressure.
Improper inlet conditions are one of the most common reason pumps fail to produce their expect pressure. Inlet issues may also cause ongoing reliability problems. One culprit is air entrainment or lack of prime. It is important to make sure that system is designed so that liquid floods the pump to prime it.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Oil appears to have come out of the oil filler cap. Is this a sign of overfilling the oil, or something else?
ANSWER : Id definitley say its over filled. try checking the dipstick

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What oil do i use in the pump? The oil is milky and needs changing.
ANSWER : Well you can use direct recommended from Ace Hardware see link.

They recommend 250 hours, but i’d change more often, like you said when it’s milky. If it begins to get water in the oil sooner, that indicates your piston to crankcase seal is beginning to leak.

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2700 Series Presser Washer, and I need to change the “engine” oil. There on two oil “yellow” fill point, and the manual talks about changing the pump oil. How exactly do I change the engine oil?
ANSWER : Look for a drain plug on the base of the engine.Take the fill cap off also, and it’ll drain easier.

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Lack of pressure in a karcher 455. motor powers on changes sound as trigger is depressed but water remains at mains pressure. oil replaced and had no water in old oil. any ideas.
ANSWER : Most cases the engine is used on many different units find one of those for a pump

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Where is drain plug for engine oil – Briggs & Stratton Gas Pressure Washer 20244
ANSWER : If you are refering to the engine, the drain plug is on the underside above the pump. Sometimes it’s located on both sides at the very bottom where the engine is bolted to the frame. It may have both of these drains, but the one on the side you can’t get to due to the frame being in the way so this is why they put them in two different spots. I hope this helps.

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Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.

ANSWER : My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?

Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.

Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.

I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.

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Do I need gas and oil mix – Poulan Super 250a Chainsaw Plate
ANSWER : I think Poulan uses a 40:1 ratio to one gallon of gas, however I have always used 50:1 the same as my sthl saws with no issue. I would rather have more oil mix that to little.

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Littlle giant pump model 2e-ndvr what oil goes inside this pump
ANSWER : “pump oil” usually is a fire redardant mineral type , ive seen good uses of dietary mineral oil avail at local phamacy , but is sort of pricey if filling a total pump up with it (allways allow for heat expansion)

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