Bilt Tb425cs 26cc 4 – Cycle Curved – Shaft Gas Trimmer with…

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I haven’t seen the carb on these units but it sounds like you need to clean/clear the main jet of the carb. That probably is the brass bolt that holds the carb bowl on to the body of the carb.It has small holes in it that can easily clog up. Maybe you also need to install an inline fuel filter on this unit.

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When your trimmer starts and runs on choke, it could be because the check valve in the gas cap is clogged. Start the trimmer and gently unscrew the gas cap halfway off. Turn the choke off and assess. If the engine is still running, that means the gas cap may be the culprit.
If your trimmer engine idles, but stalls on throttle, check the following parts: the gasket, primer bulb, fuel filter, air filter, fuel vent, fuel line, and carburetor. The repair and symptom guide will help you better identify the part needed to be replaced and how.
Remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner into the intake. Let it sit for several minutes to help loosen and dissolve varnish. Replace the filter and try starting the trimmer. If this doesn`t solve the problem, consider disassembling the carburetor to give it a more thorough cleaning.
If the engine is not revving up and cuts out before you reach higher revs then you need to do the following checks: Fuel: Make sure it is fresh and correctly mixed (see `Starting Issues`). Air filter: Make sure it is clean and unclogged. Fuel cap: Make sure it`s hand-tight.
If you press the groomer too hard against your scalp or skin, you may accidentally change the settings to high or low or apply uneven pressure. This can result in uneven clipping. For the best trimming experience, make sure your groomer is in full contact with your skin and move it gently and steadily.
The most likely culprit is a dirty or clogged air filter. Issues with your fuel pump or fuel filter can also cause your engine to idle then die with any throttle. If you have an older car, it could also be a bad carburetor.
If the choke does not close, then either the linkage is gummed up, the air horn is warped, or the spring tension is too loose or the choke spring has experienced a failure such as an internal break.
When does the bike run only with a choke? This mainly happens when there is dirt in and around the parts of the carburetor. The areas of concern here include fuel lines, petcock, pilot jets, or fuel filters. The dirt blocks the fuel passage and it cannot reach the carburetor properly.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.

I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?

1999 ford expiodition
ANSWER : Use a pressure gauge to check pressure at the rail. Change fuel filter. Replace fuel pump if needed.

Ok, here’s my issue. I have a B&S 8hp little wonder leaf blower. I’m having trouble keeping the engine running. I can start it right up, but after a few moments running on wide open, it starts to loose power and wants to shut down. I can keep it running by messing with the choke level, but it only stays running, wont ramp up to full throttle. If I stop manipulating the choke, it’ll die. I can start it back up by putting it in full choke, but have to fool with the choke to keep it running. When I fidget with the lever, I can sometimes get it to briefly run full throttle, but it doesn’t last long before it wants to die. I have replaced fuel, fuel lines, fuel filter, cleaned the carb spotless, replaced plug. Any thoughts? I’ve read about cleaning the fuel tank cap, will try that tonight. My limited knowledge tells me I’m got a fuel delivery issue since it runs and I can keep it running, but there is an issue somewhere. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Did you run a fine wire through all the carb orifices? I use a bristle from a wire brush.

Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

Self propelled mower will start but want stay running long? it runs about 3 or 4 min. then stop and when i restart it, it will start back up.
ANSWER : The fuel bowl has a float and needle, if the float isn’t floating to open the needle for gas to flow into the carb, it will cut off. A kit can be purchased for about $5 or take yours out and soak and clean then replace. Usually when these go bad its best to replace them.

Does not run, will start with starting fluid – Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller
ANSWER : You should never use starting fluid on this model.

Add a couple of ounces of 100% acetone (available at Walmart) to some fresh fuel. Attempt to start for several pulls. Let sit for several minutes and repeat until it sounds like it wants to run.

Then watch this video and do it:

http://www.alamia.us/mantis_parts_s/148.htm

Motor starts, stops, starts, stops etc never running completely. not putting out much water pressure. not building pressure??
ANSWER : Is you nozzle plugged? That is what this sounds like.