Power Lawn Mower
Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
HI, I’m sorry no one has responded. I grabbed your question as soon as I first saw it. Your problem sounds a lot like a main jet clog. All the dirt from mowing can clog it and also if you run the mower dry on gas this to can accelerate this.
There’s a 1/2″ nut that is under the bowl. Remove it and and blow that hole out. Some carburetor cleaner will not hurt either. Be very careful not to mess the float assembly up. This should fix your problem. When you pull the bowl up make sure to have something to catch the fuel in.
Make sure your gas is fresh and not oxidized as well.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
Electric lawnmowers may cut out for two main reasons: A faulty power switch or a loose cable connection. An overheating motor can cause the thermal cut out to trip.
If your lawn mower starts, runs briefly, then dies these are the four most common reasons that`s happening: Dirty carburetor / clogged carburetor bowl. Old gasoline that has gone bad. Dirty or defective spark plugs.
Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten. Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace. Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If this doesn`t work, you might need a new fuel filter.
The most common cause of a mower that runs for thirty minutes and then dies is a faulty armature. A faulty gas cap is the second most likely cause.
A dirty carburetor is the most common cause of a lawn mower that starts and then dies. Other possible causes include: Stale/Dirty Gas. Faulty Choke.
Use Carburetor Cleaner
Fortunately, you can generally do this without even taking the carburetor out of the engine. Start by purchasing some commercial lawnmower carburetor cleanerOpens a new window, which comes in a simple spray can and will make it easy to clean the inside and outside of the carb.
Why Does Your Lawn Mower Only Run With Choke On? Your lawn mower only runs with choke on because of a problem with the engine fuel-air mixture system, which can be caused by the carburetor, bad fuel, or air leaks. The choke compels more fuel in the combustion chamber to help the engine to turn over when cold.
Check the Fuel Filter
To start, tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If that doesn`t work, you might have a clogged filter. Not all lawn mowers have a fuel filter, but for the ones that do, it`s usually located in the fuel line or the fuel tank.
The spark plugs are worn or damaged
If you find that your lawnmower keeps dying, or keeps stalling while cutting grass, then inspect the spark plugs. Look for signs of damage or wear. Something as simple as a cracked porcelain insulator can mean an electrode has been damaged or burned away.
Condensation inside the gas tank is one culprit, but moisture can also enter the system through a loose or ill fitting gas cap. The best solution is to drain the mower`s gas tank and refill it with fresh gasoline. A clogged fuel filter can also cause a mower engine to die.
Other things that could cause this issue are bad fuel, weak/colapsed/kinked fuel line, faulty spark plug, faulty ignition/coil, oil over full, clogged air filter, plugged/dirty carburetor, worn engine parts internal rings/valves/etc.
One issue is loose cables where they connect to the battery posts. A loose connection makes a battery work harder, thereby draining it of power more quickly. Cleaning the posts and tightening the connections should renew the battery`s ability to hold a charge. A larger problem is a cracked battery case.
Electric lawn mowers don`t have spark plugs, meaning power is consistent and reliable. It also means you`ll never have to spend time or money checking, changing or re-gapping a spark plug.
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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
Will not start. changed to a new plug. Plug does have a spark. Seems to be getting gas as the more I pull the rope the more gas collects in the cylindar. Last spring I loaned it to a friend. Last summer I ran it briefly & it was idling extremely fast. I changed the gas before I tried to start it. Could the idle be messed up ? Idle Screw What is the approximate counter clockwise turns to get the idle in the “ballpark” to run ?
Better check friend might not have added oil to gas and it scored the cylinder wall
I need the spark plug gap for an Ariens ST624E. the spark plug = 21533500
The recommended setting is .030″
<!– from fixya rte –>Spark plug gap setting poulan pro 033. – Poulan Pro Prod/Poulan Weedeater Poulan Pro PP5020AV 20" Gas Chain Saw
The pump will not continue to run after starting, it runs for 5 seconds and then stops, until the next attempt to detect water, the pump is sitting in three feet of water. The pump will not continue to run after detecting water.
CLEAN AIR LOCK HOLE
What should the spark plug gap be on a weedeater trimmer 25cc
Weed eater starts but won't stay running – Weedeater 19 in 25cc Gas Hedge Trimmer
Probably “gum” and “varnish” build-up clogging the TINY passages [called ‘galleries”] inside the carb!
What is the spark plug gap for a NGK BPM8Y – Echo Cs-400 Chainsaws
20-25 thou which is around 0.6mm