LAWN MOWER PART # 683-04163B FRAME Assembly:RIDER

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Try……www.mtd.com

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The Model number is eleven characters long and is printed on the left side of the Product Identification Label. Characters can include numbers, letters or hyphens.
Every lawnmower, engine and appliance has a specific model number and serial number. This is like the VIN on your car. It is the secret number to discover all the parts and accessories that are unique to your product.
Locate ID Numbers on Riding Mowers

A lawn tractor usually has the ID tag under the front right wheel. Otherwise, the ID tag can be found by the back left wheel. The engine number will be found directly on the engine.

Model numbers are typically found on the mower`s deck, mower`s frame, or under the seat if your mower has a seat. Sometimes these identification numbers are engraved into metal or a metal plaque that is attached to your mower. Sometimes it maybe on a sticker.
What is MTD? MTD stands for “month to date.” It`s the period starting from the beginning of the current month up until now … but not including today`s date, because it might not be complete yet.
To Determine Manufacture Date Based on Serial Number: The 1st three numbers of your serial number will always provide your manufacture date. The 1st number is the YEAR of manufacture; the 2nd & 3rd numbers indicate the MONTH of manufacture. Please see the detailed explanation and examples provided below.
A mower deck spindle is a component of a lawnmower that connects the blade to the deck of the mower. The spindle has two bearings that allow the blade to spin, and a pulley that drives the blade via a belt.
Electric lawn mowers, also known as battery lawn mowers, get their power from a rechargeable battery instead of gasoline. Batteries can range anywhere from 36 to 120 volts, and many electric mowers come with a backup battery in case one runs dry.
The first digit defines the country of origin or the final point of assembly of your vehicle. The second digit indicates the manufacturer and the region where your vehicle was produced. The third digit, when coupled with the first two digits, indicates your vehicle`s type or manufacturing division.
Riding mower model and serial number plate is located on the underside of the seat.
Riding mower model numbers are found by flipping the seat forward. The model number is printed on the left side of the Product Identification Label, attached to the underside of the seat, and starts with the letters, “CM”.
How Do I Identify a Briggs & Stratton Engine? The Model, Type and Code numbers, stamped directly into the engine, are used to identify our engines. Engines used in lawn mower applications usually have the model numbers stamped directly into the blower housing, muffler heat shield, or a few inches above the spark plug.
Knowing the model number of your Briggs & Stratton® ride engine will make it easy to order maintenance or repair parts online or from your local dealer. The engine model number is the first 12 characters stamped into metal directly on your engine in one of two locations – on the valve cover or an aluminum tag.
The model name, product number, serial number, and other product data, for example dimensions, weight, energy consumption and noise level, are found on the rating plate of your Husqvarna product. Sometimes the rating plate also includes a Husqvarna ID and a QR code.
Knowing the model number of your Briggs & Stratton® ride engine will make it easy to order maintenance or repair parts online or from your local dealer. The engine model number is the first 12 characters stamped into metal directly on your engine in one of two locations – on the valve cover or an aluminum tag.
The model name, product number, serial number, and other product data, for example dimensions, weight, energy consumption and noise level, are found on the rating plate of your Husqvarna product. Sometimes the rating plate also includes a Husqvarna ID and a QR code.
Knowing the model number of your Briggs & Stratton® ride engine will make it easy to order maintenance or repair parts online or from your local dealer. The engine model number is the first 12 characters stamped into metal directly on your engine in one of two locations – on the valve cover or an aluminum tag.

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I need to replace to fuel lines on a Craftman 32cc trimmer. The old ones cracked apart. 2 of the lines look like 1/8″ OD one line looks like 3/32″ OD. Larger line looks like it hooks to filter, Smaller line to a fitting in the gas tank. I am assuming the smaller line ges to the primer inlet. My question is the lines penetrate the bottom of the gas tank. How do they seal. How do I install the filter and the fitting. I am assuming to thread the new lines in from the bottom of the tank and pull through the gas cap hole. Then I attach filter or fitting and pull back through. So do I pull the line so as to create a seal from the swell caused by the fitting/filter?
ANSWER : Depending on the brand of line you use, Tygon line is self sealing but seems to shrink faster then factory supplied because of the ethanol in the gas. The stone gas filter is designed to fall to the lowest part of the tank, not stop the line from falling out.

Digital Multimeter Mastech, verses Fluke, Unfortunately I damaged my good old Fluke 87-3 when I measured a 3 phase motor supply while still in ohms mode, one of those o-**** moments when you hear the meter freak out and know without even looking at it. Still works but brain damaged and I don’t trust it anymore. Anyway looking at various meters on the market and came across this mastech meter on ebay item 200461965472, I know its not a Fluke, but I like the features it boasts and of course the lower cost than Fluke, has anyone used this brand? Any good? One thing I like is speed are these fast or is there a delay like most meters other than Fluke. I would like to hear from someone who has actually used one of these or makes. Also looking into PC based meter/O-Scope/Function generator where the PC or laptop is the display/control with a interface box with in/outs. Has anyone had experience with these and can recommend makes, models.
ANSWER : I have had experience with both systems you are inquiring about. personally, I think you should get a Fluke, NOTHING even comes close, as I am sure you are aware, any extra cost is soon made up for by features and reliability. I haven’t had very good results using Virtual Instruments, they are OK, but.. very cumbersome, in use etc, you just cannot beat a “scope. Now I really recommend the Fluke Scope meter, they are just awesome, in every way.. I have had VERY good results and a cheap repair, when I sent a damaged meter back to Fluke, they reconditioned it and calibrated etc, and the cost was as i remember very reasonable, for what was done, so perhaps you would like to entertain that thought. You can always ask for a “Quote” before allowing repair to proceed, that way you have little to loose. There are many meters and instruments out there, and as you know, a man is only as accurate as his equipment, and I always recommend Fluke, as they are simply the best. Possibly a bit Pricey, they are always worth it. So go with your first instincts, which were indeed right on the money, Fluke all the way. As I said have a look at the Fluke Scope meter, and possibly treat yourself to a wonderful piece of equipment you’ll fast wonder how you ever did without it before.

Proved saw is firing, acts like it is not getting enough gas, need to know proper procedure for adjusting carb. and what the two adjustments marked L and H do. Looks like it takes a special wrench, need to know where to obtain wrench, if these need to be adjusted. Saw has very small amount of run time on it, though it is a couple of years old.
ANSWER : If the saw has a EPA carb it will have anti tamper screws, these have a spline on them, not a screw driver slot, there is a special tool to adjust the jets part no. 530035560, check the web for sellers, both screws are fuel screws, not air screws, so the more you undo them the richer the mixture gets, the L screw will adjust the mixture from idle up to half throttle, the H screw will adjust from half throttle to max rpm, all saws today are set for the best emmissions not the best running so they are always set on the lean side, the settings as they are will be a good starting point, if the saw does not pick up clean inscrew the L screw a bit at a time until it does, be very carefull with the H screw as this can be leaned off too much and the saw will over rev and possibly seize, this should be do with a taco so as you know what the rvs are, it should not exceed 12500 rpm.it should aleays sound a little rich at maximum no load revs.

I need a manual for a Murray self propelled lawn mower Model No. 20905X8C. When I went on the Murray website, I had to have the manual to look up the part numbers. This particular manual is not on-line so I can’t even look up part numbers. I know I need a replacement wheel (rear) and I am pretty sure I have identified it by its looks on a parts site, however, I would like to have better info on the lawn mower generally so how can I get a manual. Thanks.
ANSWER : You need a rear wheel part# 71133MA. A place to look up this model would be at www.precisionope.com. Look up OEM parts section, in may be under Murray or Briggs & Stratton. Briggs bought out Murray out several years ago.Hope that helps.

I don’t know the name of the rubbermaid shed. I need it because I need a part to it & I need the part # for that part. The old shed I have looks very simular to the big max it’s 7″ x 7″. When looking at the shed it’s the left door that needs to be replaced. It has a male part on top of the door that gets inserted to the shed. Well, that male part fell off and therefore there is no way to keep the door up.
ANSWER : So that sound’s like a pivot pin for a door hinge. What about using a 3 inch nail?

I have a john deer L118 lawn tractor that gallops like it’s running out of gas. THe fule filter part looks like its only 1/8 full of gas. Does it need to be full. Also there is a black part near the fuel filter, is this the fuel pump? Is there a web site with a repair manual to look at?
ANSWER : If it is surging you might need a new govenor spring or the choke might be sticking or carb might need adjusting. I know on a push mover when they surge I put on new gov spring and they run great.roundo4

I have a briggs & stratton generator 8000 model 030426
The motor runs great but does not pull
any power.it set in my freind garage
a few months
I looked at the wiring diagram and it showed one side open and the other side
closed on the 110 outlets and on the
outlets themselfs they were both closed
The socket look like a normal house
hold 110 soscket. There are two of
them on the genenator for a total of
four 110 outlets.
I was told that it could be the bushes
or the regulator. I looked at the two
bushes and they look good. Is there
anyway I can check the regulator before
I put the money out for it…
any help you can give PLEASE
ANSWER : Yes to check the regulator, use a Multimeter, set to Volts, now check, to see if there is any actual output directly out of the motor. There should be a 110 volt AC, reading.This Voltage will go into, the Controller Box, and should reappear on the “Other”side of the Controller, and should again be around 110Volts AC. This usually has a “Trigger” circuit, when a “Load” is plugged into any Socket, this should be detected, and the machine, ramp up, to supply the Current. look for where the Voltage stops, after it leaves the Generator,, that should be the area of your fault. Be careful.

If able get a service/repair manual, these have all the troubleshooting and repair advice that engineers use to service and repair.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/doclist.aspx?category=Portable%20Generators&manual_type=Operator%20Manuals&menu=nav3&subMenu=3

Above is a link for a manual to help.

Basically, this is a “Reverse Motor” the “Motor” is spun, and it produces Voltage & Current. this goes into a Vsense, and a Vreg, and smoothed and conditioned, via the Controller, and then out to the mains sockets. Check for Disconnections, faulty, Controller, Check any all breakers & Fuses.

I have a Comet BXD 2525 G pressure washer pump which is giving me some problem. (Maybe) I hook the water up to pump and the pressure hose up to the pump, turn on the water and the water sprays out of the water connection at the pump. I check the hose to see if it was clog ok and the next was a the water connection ok. It’s like the water is not going int the pump. When i start the pressure up the water come out of gun but no pump running like it should. The next thing i was going to look at is the unloader because this has to do with water pressure but i wanted to ask you first. Check oil and it is clean no silver in oil like worn parts. The pump was working fine did a wall stop working after that. No noise or any problem I also thought maybe something could be stuck like a valve on the pump. could you please return this e-mail thank you
ANSWER : The water inlet needs a gasket like all hose connections. If its gone the pump may be starving for water.