Garden

Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
Check the safety near the trigger

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :

If you notice the sound of an air leak coming from the top it could be a leaky seal inside the nail gun. To examine the seal remove the top cap. Remove the seal and inspect it for signs of wear and damage. Replace the seal if need and install a new gasket between the nail gun housing and the top cap.
Jams are the most common cause of a nailer not firing. Thankfully, they are often easy to clear. For safety, first disconnect the tool from the air supply, retract the feeder mechanism, and remove any excess fasteners from the magazine. From there, clearing the jam depends on what type of nailer you have.
If you try to fire a pneumatic nail gun or stapler, but only hear air leaking when engaging the trigger, it`s likely that your tool`s “O-Ring” is not sealing properly. When the trigger is not depressed, you may not hear air leaking, as the valve is probably sealed.
Minimum Recommended Operating Pressure (PSI)

Most nailers will operate at a PSI between 70 and 120.

Make sure you are using compatible nails with your nail gun. Using the wrong nails will jam up the magazine not allowing the nails to be feed. A broken or worn pin will can prevent the nails from feeding. To inspect and replace the pin, remove the magazine from the nail gun and the spring guard.
Power. Pneumatics require an air compressor for power, along with an air hose to connect to the nailer. Cordless nailers offer freedom of movement, but power-intensive jobs, like framing, will increase battery use.
There are many reasons you may experience pain under your fingernail when it is pressed, including injury or infection. More serious causes of fingernail pain may include a tumor under the nail. You may be able to relieve the pain at home with a cold compress or a warm soak.
Pneumatic framing nailers rely on compressed air to drive the nails, and if the air pressure is too low, the nails won`t sink properly. Make sure to check the air pressure gauge on your compressor to ensure it`s at the correct level.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Maintenance gears trouble shooting gears _ chain _coubling_bearing
ANSWER : Unable to help. What is problem on what product?

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Can i shoot a slug through a shot berrel the gun is a browning bps if so what choke tube
ANSWER : I would use a larger choke than a full if you have one.I use a I/P on mine.

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Regarding a saniflo macerator installation, this is my second post in the last couple of days. Installation was done by a licensed plumber. Brief background: after the installation was complete, the pump appeared to very noisey to me; when the sink ran, the toilet gurgled and vice versa when the toilet was flushed; also, I saw that the plumber had used several short elbows on the discharge pipe as follows doing initially a horizontal run from the macerator discharge outlet of some 18 inches then vertically up about 30 inches then horizontally some 20 inches and again vertically going down to connect to a Y on the hanging sewer line. Also the discharge line is not strapped, and vibrates/moves as the macerator is engaged. At the time of my first post, I did not realize that he had used an Oatey AAV for venting purposes. Based on the responses from FixYa on my first post, I did some more research on this installation. Also spoke with a tech from Saniflo a couple of times. The configuration of the discharge as currently in place appears to be a major problem. From what I now understand, the discharge should come out the macerator on an elbow going vertically then into a bend horizontally into a Y connection on the sewer line. Am I understanding this correctly and is this the way that the plumber should remediate his prior discharge install? According to Saniflo and another plumber that I talked with, the AAV or any mechanical device cannot be used to vent the Sanibest macerator. I have an unused side wall vent (3″ PVC pipe) at the corner of the basement about 4-5 feet from the macerator. I was told that I could use that to vent the macerator correctly or I could tie into the vent pipe that vents my kitchen sink. That vent pipe is about 8 feet downstream from the macerator, not the best location but accessible. Do either of these vent locations appear viable to use? Last but not least, is there any other venting that needs to be in place with the sink and toilet that run into the macerator? I would like to hear back on these questions from someone who has some definitive experience with these Sanibest installs. I appreciated the prior responses from my first post because they started to point me in the right direction. I want to be as informed as possible when the plumber comes back to remediate this original install. Thanks much.
ANSWER : Here you can find the recommended installation instructionshttp://www.saniflo.co.uk/pdf/install/SANIBEST.pdfTo put it simply the venting in your installation has been done incorrectly and the fact that the pipes were left unsecured to the wall should have been the giveaway – that plumber was just a hack.Yes, if the Y discharge is considerably lower than the macerator the AAV must be used. But only in this case – in all the others its unnecessary. You never said were this aerator is situated but it appears that (since you hear gurgling), it’s not at the top of the loop where it should be.Yes, you could use that extra vent. No, no extra venting should be used – the proper installation is explained in the diagrams on the link above at page 4.Yes, call another plumber to do the install properly.

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I have the 16 inch Husqvarna. Think its the 137. It will crank and then stop and when i pull the plug out it is bad flooded with fuel. Its like the fuel tank is building up pressure and flooding it. Does the fuel tank have a vent on it and if so where is it? thanks for your help, I took the carb appart several times and cleaned it, and it wasnt dirty at all. Its flooding really bad thoe.
ANSWER : There tank vent is in the top of the fuel tank, you would have to remove the tank to get to it, it is a small plug and a duck bill valve, as this system only allows air into the tank and not out, there will always be a pressure in the tank, if the carb is flooding it is due to the rubber tipped needle under the metering diaphram leaking, not an issue with the breather, you realy need a small bulb pressure tester to test the needle seating, apply 2/3 psi into the fuel inlet conection on the carb, the needle should hold this with no like on the tester dial, if you do not have a tester all you can do is replace the needle and hope you have cured it, do remember that when re fitting the diaphram and gasget back on the carb, the gasket must go on first, and the diaphram last, it acts as a spacer, if you fit the other way round it will flodd because the diaphram is too close to the needle, the metering lever should be set level with the sides of the carb.

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Fuel leaking from air filter compartment.
ANSWER : The unit has a fuel tank vent in it. If this is plugged up the tank will pressurize and force fuel out of the carburetor.

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How to reset the timing on a 6.5 HP honda – Honda GX200-RH2 22mm Shaft 2 to 1 Gear Reduction 6.5 HP Engine
ANSWER : Good question first you need to find top dead center.if you cant find any marking on cam shaft remove spark plug. place thumb over hole and gentle pull motor over first will be suction next you will feel compression agaist your thumb this will be the power stroke as you pull motor over note when you first feel this and when this stops .this will give you a ball park idea of TDC.align the ignition system to fire here

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I am experiencing a problem with an air-lock in an in-ground spa gravity feed 6? main drain. If have repeatedly forced through water to clear the air-lock and also tried sucking out the air-lock. Pushing water from the collector tank to the spa main drain seems to have the most successful results and for a period of approximately 1 week I seem to have trouble free operation. After that, the air-lock seems to re-occur.

I believe that I screwed up when plumbing the main drain as I followed engineering instructions to fit a 90 degree elbow at 18? below the spa beam which has basically created a high point in the gravity line. I fully understand that if I can clear the air-lock, this will not be a problem. At no time does the water fall below this high-point.

The main drain pipe is about 180ft in length so I am aware that there could have been a lot of air trapped, but after 6 months of trying to clear this air, I am becoming very confused and frustrated.

I do not believe that I am losing any water in the pool or spa.

Here are my questions:

1) If I did have a slight break in the spa main drain line, is it at all possible that it might result in sucking in air rather than losing water? Silly question, but I am at that point!

2) The water is sanitized by an Intellichlor salt chlorine generator. Is it possible that any part of this chemical process might create a gas which would cause my air-lock to re-occur?

3) Are there any other know reasons that might explain this reoccurring problem?

ANSWER : There could be a few things preventing your
jets from pumping water. If
you just drained your hot tub, it is common to have an air lock in
the
plumbing and you must
bleed the air out of the lines. Look for tiny bleed
screws on the end of the pump. Open these bleed screws to allow
air out.
Always do this with the power off and be ready to close them
quickly
because water will spray out with the air. If you have a bleed
screw on
top of your filter, be sure to bleed air from there too. After
bleeding,
try turning the power on again and see if the jets work. You may
have to
bleed the lines several times before the jets fully function, but
you
should see an improvement each time. As long as you get the
majority of
air out of the lines and the jets start flowing again, the
remainder of
air will work its’ way out.
If you didn’t just drain your tub and you don’t
think you have an air
lock, try the following:
1) Is the high speed pump working? If yes, skip
to step 2. If no, check
the voltage at the pump. If there is voltage, your pump is faulty
and
needs to be replaced. If there is no voltage, test back to the
power
source for open circuits or switches.
2) Is there good water flow out of some of the
jets? If yes, skip to step
3.
If you don’t have good water flow, try the
following:
– Take apart the pump wet end and look for obstructions or a
broken
impeller.
– Make sure your filter is not clogged and is clean. If in doubt,
try
running your spa without the filter and see if there is an
improvement.
– Check for closed or broken knife valves (gate valves).
– Make sure the water level is not too low and the floating weir
on the
skimmer is not stuck.
3) If you have good water flow out of some of
the jets, look for jets that
may be closed. Many jets can be adjusted for pressure and can be
turned
off at the jet. Also look for loose or worn out jet seals and
check the
nozzles for obstructions.

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Has no pressure, builds up when not holding trigger on gun, but when i press trigger shoots of with pressure the nothing just water comes out.
ANSWER : Bad pump

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