I have checked for leaks and am suspicous that the pressure detection mechanism in the pump is faulty. How can i check this ?
MQ3-45 1 HP Pressure Booster Pump
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If you have valves at the pre tank you can run it till it shuts down then close the inlet valve and the outlet valve. Wait and see if it goes on again. If so you have a problem in the pressure tank or the switch mech. If not open the outlet valve and wait. If it starts you have a leak somewhere in the house. If not open the intake valve and see what happens. If it kicks on then you have a problem with you check od backflow valve. If this is a shallow well pump it could be in the supply line also. Good luck.
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Leaking from your booster pump reduces its effectiveness and can result in more serious problems if not addressed. Leaks can be caused by issues such as broken valves, worn or cracked seals and the water pressure being too high.
If the booster pump is not perfoming as well as normal there are a few things that are worth checking. Check that the water supply to the booster pump is fully open and not restricted. If this is the case it may starve the booster pump and it will not be able to boost the pressure. The pump head may need replacing.
How does a booster pump work? A booster pump boosts water pressure and, in many cases, improves the flow rate. A booster pump works just like a fan. A fan has blades that spin around to increase air movement, and a booster pump has an impeller inside that increases water flow and pressure in the same fashion.
In most of these cases, 40 psi should be more than enough, and since most modern tire designs will allow up to 44 psi (in some cases more) this is not a problem. If you have a heavily loaded vehicle, up to 44 or even higher is ok if the tire allows it, but this is a little high for most vehicles.
The ideal psi is between 40 to 60 psi, anything over 60 should be looked at by a plumber. Anything below 30 and you likely have a leak.
The water pump contains several seals and gaskets that keep coolant enclosed and secure as it flows throughout the engine. As these seals and gaskets age, they will become worn, cracked, and dried out. Once this occurs, the coolant can leak from the water pump.
First, you can increase the fluid flow rate into the pump. This will increase the pressure on the fluid, and therefore increase the output pressure of the pump. Second, you can increase the displacement of the pump.
A quick and easy way to increase water pressure is to adjust the pressure-reducing valve, which can be found in your home, usually close to your water meter. If your pressure gauge reading was low, make slight adjustments to your regulator.
Booster pump operation
One of the booster pump`s features is that it switches on automatically if one or more draw-off points are opened (e.g. taps, washbasins, toilets, washing machines, sprinklers, and so on). It switches off when all draw-off points are closed.
In individual units and buildings, household pumps are used to improve the water pressure, and in large buildings and complexes and many units, water supply pump boosters are used to solve the water pressure problem, especially on the upper floors.
They are required to provide a discharge pressure of 15 to 20 MPa and a feed-water temperature of approximately 150 °C, which are substantially low compared to super- critical thermal power plants.
A centrifugal pump is often used for this purpose. For most pressure feed applications an inlet feed pressure of about 20 psi is adequate. The maximum inlet pressure for a plunger pump is 60-70 psi and 40 psi for piston pumps.
Motor power of 0.37 kW. 3.8 bar pressure. 34 l/min flow.
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Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
ANSWER : My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
My pump, used to pressurise the water in the house, keeps coming on every 2 mins approx even though there is no water being used in my system. I have checked for leaks and am suspicous that the pressure detection mechanism in the pump is faulty. How can i check this ?
ANSWER : If you have valves at the pre tank you can run it till it shuts down then close the inlet valve and the outlet valve. Wait and see if it goes on again. If so you have a problem in the pressure tank or the switch mech. If not open the outlet valve and wait. If it starts you have a leak somewhere in the house. If not open the intake valve and see what happens. If it kicks on then you have a problem with you check od backflow valve. If this is a shallow well pump it could be in the supply line also. Good luck.
No pressure Pump reassembly. I purchased a new pump and installed it. Got machine back together and I’m not getting any pressure. What would be the signs if I don’t have the shaft key in properly? Or any other suggestions?
Water comes out of nozzle with pressure for a quick second then no pressure, just water. This is a brand new pump so was curious if I installed it wrong. Wondering before taking it apart again.
ANSWER : No pressure would be a sign that the key was not in properly.
I have a 1/2 horse wayne shallow well pump. At times the water in the house slows to a trickel. This will happen for about 40-120 seconds then the pump seems to kick on and the pressure is restored. I have replaced the high low switch and the problem persists. Please let me know any thoughts on the problem. Thank You
ANSWER : Check air in your water tank should be less than you’re cut in pressure..
I have a pressure booster pump installed which turns on automatically when we open the tap and turns off by itself when we close the tap, but when power goes and comes back(common in india), the pump will turn on even with no tap opened and does not turn off automatically and goes on running, some kind of airlock problem I think, when we just shut off and on water input several times, it again starts working well
ANSWER : Check to see if the output pipe has water in it when the pump swutches off the pump needs to be primed at all time what we normally find cases like this is the pump is higher than the supply or there is an air pocket on the output where the pressure sensor is
I have a Northstar pressure washer powered by a honda GC160 engine. The last time i used it, water leaks from the bottom of the unit, whether it is running or not. When running, the pressure is fine. I have felt underneath and it appears that the water is coming from the second opening from the rear. Is there a pressure relief valve there. I have a manual but cannot find any descriptors for underneath the motor.
ANSWER : This is a piston seal issue. You can get a kit to rebuild the pump.
What oil do i use in the pump? The oil is milky and needs changing.
ANSWER : Well you can use direct recommended from Ace Hardware see link.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1340266
They recommend 250 hours, but i’d change more often, like you said when it’s milky. If it begins to get water in the oil sooner, that indicates your piston to crankcase seal is beginning to leak.
The well pump is running, but no water is supplied to thr irrigation lines. once I put water in the pump housing by removing the pump guage the pump pumps water through the irrigation lines. when it shuts down, iloose the prime again. what should I do?
ANSWER : Sounds like you have an air leak. First check your fittings, next carefully run water over the pump seals (avoid getting water on the motor or you’ll hurt yourself and the pump if not worse) the pump will prime if the leaking seal is covered with water. Take your time and be careful and it should only be a matter of a loose fitting or simple seal swap.
