ontinue to run at a high idle, but any throttle will kill it. Eventually, it will die, but then it repeats the cycle all over again. Going from full throttle to none. I have done all of the elementary stuff (air filter, plug, new gas) all with the same result. This is the first time I’ve seen this problem. Carb need adjustment and cleaning? Any advice would be appreciated.
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How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
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The fuel filter might be clogged. A clogged fuel filter is most commonly caused by leaving old fuel in the leaf blower. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog the fuel filter and cause the engine to stall.
The air filter can get clogged up pretty quickly, depending on how tough the job is. As mentioned above, air, fuel, and spark are necessary for combustion. If your air filter is clogged up, there will not be enough oxygen to facilitate the combustion process, which will cause your Stihl Leafblower to bog down.
This is caused by a rich/lean cycle at idle. As the motor leans out the RPM`s increase and richen up the motor, when the motor richens the RPM`s decrease and the motor leans out again. This continual cycle is known as “blower surge”.
Engine RPM bog down occurs as the engine is loaded beyond its torque-producing capabilities. This occurs when engine RPMs are allowed to decay below the design specification. Bog down can occur during ground start, taxi, and the landing roll.
Check for a dirty air filter and replace if needed.
A clogged filter limits the amount of cool air that passes over the heat exchanger, causing it to overheat and shut off. At the same time, your blower turns on to help cool it down.
The fuel lines on your blower carry fuel from the tank to the engine. If these fuel lines are obstructed, it can`t allow the proper amount of fuel to enter the engine, which will cause it to run for a short time, but ultimately stall out. You may be able to clean out the fuel lines and solve this problem.
Many times this is caused by a plugged vent in the gas cap. Try running it and unscrew the fuel cap part way to see if venting the tank will allow it to run without the choke. If so, then clean the cap with hot water and dish soap or replace the cap with a new one.
Power surges occur when the flow of electricity is interrupted, then started again, or when something sends electricity flowing back into the system. Surges can range from five or ten volts when you turn on your hair dryer to thousands of volts if lightning strikes a transformer.
Weak or Absent Airflow
Weak airflow or total lack of it is the most obvious sign of a bad blower motor. The problem could be due to a clogged blower from accumulated dust or debris. It could also be due to leaky air ducts or a bad capacitor.
Engine surging is usually a warning sign that your car or truck is having combustion problems. Since a vehicle`s ignition wires and spark plugs play a major role in proper engine performance, it is likely time to check your engine`s electrical components.
It can be caused by various factors, fuel injection problems, bad spark plugs, a malfunctioning air sensor, might be a dirty air filter, and troubles with the engine control. Other issues of the fuel ignition system can also trigger surging when stopped.
Surging or misfiring
Engine surging is when an engine starts easily and accelerates smoothly, however after a few minutes at a steady speed, it either surges in speed or misfires. Misfiring happens when one of the cylinders of an engine`s combustion cycle fails.
Spark Plugs and Spark Plug Wires
Ignition issues are another common cause for a bogged-down ATV.
They are ignition protected to prevent sparks, and are built to resist overheating and corrosion. The size blower you need is determined by the volume of your engine compartment. It is recommended that you use a blower at least 4 minutes before you ever start the engine, and especially after fueling.
Two problems that could cause your fan to run without stopping include: A bad fan limit switch that needs to be replaced. Bad thermostat wiring.
These screens help prevent heated gases from escaping the internal combustion engines. In many countries, these screens are a mandatory requirement for not just all leaf blowers, but most internal combustion engines, such as cars, motorcycles, chainsaws and other lawn and garden equipment.
It won`t go endlessly on one charge; about 15 to 20 minutes is reasonable – if you need a blower that runs longer, get a corded or gas-powered model. And it won`t demolish that huge pile of wet leaves on your lawn – but it works well with lighter debris on hard surfaces.
One of the most common symptoms of trouble with the blower motor resistor is when the fan gets stuck in one setting. Because the blower motor resistor adjusts the fan speed, the inability to change it can point to problems. If the resistor fails or shorts, the blower motor might remain stuck at a particular speed.
What you may be experiencing is that, when accelerating, the intake manifold vacuum is decreased. Vacuum is used to change the vents from defrost to dash to floor. With a loss of vacuum, the system defaults to the defrost position.
It sounds like this may be a sign of a faulty blower motor or bad wiring between the motor and the resistor. As you might know, these have electric motors in them that wear out over time and will begin to make squeaking or grinding noises as the bearings begin to wear out.
If your bike is only running with the choke on, it`s probably because it`s running too lean. This can be caused by a few different things: All internal combustion engines need three things to run: fuel, air, and spark. If any of these are missing or not working properly, the engine won`t run.
The “Bog” simply means the engine is not receiving enough fuel when you go to wide open throttle. While there are other issues that may cause similar reactions within the carburetor, often the problem can be traced back to the accelerator pump system. Incorrect adjustment is the typical culprit.
What you may be experiencing is that, when accelerating, the intake manifold vacuum is decreased. Vacuum is used to change the vents from defrost to dash to floor. With a loss of vacuum, the system defaults to the defrost position.
The “Bog” simply means the engine is not receiving enough fuel when you go to wide open throttle. While there are other issues that may cause similar reactions within the carburetor, often the problem can be traced back to the accelerator pump system. Incorrect adjustment is the typical culprit.
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
