hat will work in leui of buying new one) . it start on 1/2 choke but stalls if i give it full throttle. if i try to put in on no choke it dies fast any ideas
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How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
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When the spark arrestor is clogged, the engine can`t get rid of its exhaust gases, and it won`t keep running. The spark arrestor is a screen located just behind the muffler. Pull it out and clean or replace it.
When your trimmer starts and runs on choke, it could be because the check valve in the gas cap is clogged. Start the trimmer and gently unscrew the gas cap halfway off. Turn the choke off and assess. If the engine is still running, that means the gas cap may be the culprit.
Check the Tank Filter
If you can`t see fuel in the priming bulb, there`s a good chance your tank filter is blocking the fuel mix from moving to the engine.
If your 2-stroke brushcutter fails to start, the simplest explanation is that there is not enough fuel: in this case you simply need to top it up. A 2-stroke brushcutter engine runs on fuel/oil mixture, which you can buy ready prepared, such as EFCO-Mix Alkilate alkylated mixture in a 5 L can.
If your trimmer engine idles, but stalls on throttle, check the following parts: the gasket, primer bulb, fuel filter, air filter, fuel vent, fuel line, and carburetor. The repair and symptom guide will help you better identify the part needed to be replaced and how.
An almost totally blocked spark arrestor screen on a two-stroke, air-cooled engine can cause the engine to overheat. The result is that the piston expands into the exhaust port and the engine seizes. The piston scored because the engine was unable to dissipate heat fast enough.
If your bike is only running with the choke on, it`s probably because it`s running too lean. This can be caused by a few different things: All internal combustion engines need three things to run: fuel, air, and spark. If any of these are missing or not working properly, the engine won`t run.
Why would the engine only run while the choke is on or with repeated manual priming? An engine that requires the choking (partial or full) after initial engine warm up is an indication that the engine fuel air mixture system is out of adjustment.
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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
Will only start and run in choked position, when throttle applied chokes out. If started with out choke and throttle position in low speed will start and run for 10 sec then like it runs out of gas.
ANSWER : I have your solution guaranteed, I fixed mine yesturday remove H L screw plastic caps and on high 11 threads exposed and on the low side 8 threads exposed. removing the plastic caps allows u further adjusting these wear out or move soo just take them things off and you will be rolling
Wont stay running – Mtd 22" Yard Machine Push Mower
ANSWER : Under neath the carby is a single brass bolt, undo it
that one bolt is a multi jet, find four holes use a fine pin and carby cleaner ,hint one is at the top were the thread starts , one is in the inside center and two in the sides
put it back in and prim and start, hope it helps
I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
My tractor stalls like it is starved for gas although the gas tank is full. I,ve changed the fuel filter and the gas cap. I’ve cleaned out the gas tank, gas lines, and the carburetor bowl. The problem seems more acute when the gas tank is full or near full. At this time to alleviate the problem, I blow through the gas cap and the fuel filter fills with gas and it runs good again. But as soon as the fuel filter has no more gas, of course, it stalls until I blow on the gas cap. As the tank gets down to about 1/3 full, the engine runs OK. What else could cause this condition?
ANSWER : I had a similar problem with a sears tractor. close to the carbarator is a rectangle box with a rubber hose going to the engine block – remove the hose and spray carb cleaner in the hose wait a few mins and try again – its a vacuum for the carb
Ok, here’s my issue. I have a B&S 8hp little wonder leaf blower. I’m having trouble keeping the engine running. I can start it right up, but after a few moments running on wide open, it starts to loose power and wants to shut down. I can keep it running by messing with the choke level, but it only stays running, wont ramp up to full throttle. If I stop manipulating the choke, it’ll die. I can start it back up by putting it in full choke, but have to fool with the choke to keep it running. When I fidget with the lever, I can sometimes get it to briefly run full throttle, but it doesn’t last long before it wants to die. I have replaced fuel, fuel lines, fuel filter, cleaned the carb spotless, replaced plug. Any thoughts? I’ve read about cleaning the fuel tank cap, will try that tonight. My limited knowledge tells me I’m got a fuel delivery issue since it runs and I can keep it running, but there is an issue somewhere. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Did you run a fine wire through all the carb orifices? I use a bristle from a wire brush.
Carb problems wont stay running unless i unplug and plug in the anti diesel switch the plug on the fuel bowl
ANSWER : Check and see if all your carb jets or clean sound like some dirt got into one
My bolens bl100 wont stay running. put in new gapped plug, new gas, and took out the fuel filter on blew it out with compressor(dont know if that will work in leui of buying new one) . it start on 1/2 choke but stalls if i give it full throttle. if i try to put in on no choke it dies fast any ideas
