rt – It will fire up for 2-3 seconds and then dies. Any
2700 Max Psi Pressure Washer 23 Max Gpm

The plug looks pretty fouled but wire brushed and didn't helpl. I plan to open the gas line next to verify flow.

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Powered by a reliable OHV 196cc gasoline engine that feeds into an Axial Cam Pump, it delivers 2,700 psi Pressure at 2.4 gallons per minute of flow.

The 2700 PSI of force will quickly clean driveways, decks, windows and other areas around the house. The durable, compact frame and large flat-free wheels make this pressure washer easy to transport and store.
This powerful pressure washer is built for tough jobs, with 2500 PSI and 2.4 GPM of cleaning power. The pressure washer has a long-reach high pressure hose so you can clean wider areas.
There`s no doubt that electric pressure washers from 1,300 to 2,300 psi can wash a concrete driveway, but it`ll take longer. If you have a large driveway with lots of stains, you`ll want more power to do the job faster.
It refers to the flow rate or the volume of water that moves through the pressure washer`s nozzle every minute. Think of GPM as rinsing power. The higher a pressure washer`s GPM, the quicker you can wash a surface clean. The GPM of effective commercial pressure washers ranges from 2.2 to 10.
Our Pressure Washers are constructed individually to each customers specification to ensure the ultimate performance satisfaction.
The Bottom Line

If you`re still wondering what the best combination is, we recommend starting with something in the 3000 – 3500 PSI/2.0 – 2.5 GPM range. These pressure washers are good for most homeowners, as they tend to work very efficiently and are still affordable.

What PSI pressure washer do I need to clean concrete? To clean concrete effectively, use a power washer with a pressure rating of at least 3000 psi and a flow rate of at least 4 gallons per minute (gpm).
4000 PSI – 4 GPM – Bandit – Pressure Washer

NOTE* Pressure Washers Units have a lead time of a few days to ship.

1,400 gpm – 13 psi per 100 feet. 1,500 gpm – 15 psi per 100 feet.
Heavy-duty- These produce water pressure levels of between 2,900 and 3,300 PSI. They are perfect for cleaning big sections of concrete and can also reach the second floor of a story building.
To get the job done right, you need a pressure washer rated at least 3,000 PSI with a flow rate of at least four gallons per minute (GPM).
Generally, contractors or professional cleaners will find that they prefer a higher GPM machine over PSI since they use cleaning solutions to loosen grime instead of relying fully on PSI, their job primarily becomes one of rinsing the dirt away. The higher the GPM the faster it will be to clean large surfaces.
For most single-family homes, a minimum flow of 6 GPM is suggested from a well or spring. This flow would provide 360 gallons of water each hour, which would be sufficient to meet most home water peak demands.
A professional power washing contractor will usually prefer a higher GPM (gallons per minute) over a higher PSI (pounds per square inch). The reason for this is because a professional will lean more on their expertise of using quality chemicals and products to complete a job more efficiently.
What is GPM? GPM means Gallons Per Minute. Also known as “flow rate”, GPM is a measure of how many gallons of water flow out of your shower head each minute.
Cold Water Residential 2.5 GPM, 2700 PSI, Kohler.
Any machine capable of producing at least 1,500 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure can clean concrete, but the work will go much faster if you choose a model producing 2,500 to 3,000 psi, like the gas-powered option below.
3,000 PSI. The residential workhorse of concrete, 3,000 PSI can be used for driveways, patios and sidewalks. Its durability will help shrug off the freeze-thaw cycle of harsh winters. This is a fine choice for any general construction use.
To clean concrete, exterior siding or an asphalt driveway, you`ll want at least 2,000 to 2,800 psi and 2 to 3 gpm (4,000 to 8,400 ECUs).
You should also never set your pressure washer above 2,200 psi when washing your car. 1,500 psi is really all you need to get a good deep clean; any pressure higher than that won`t make a noticeable performance difference.
Concrete and asphalt require more cleaning power. You`ll want to use the turbo nozzle on the 1600 PSI for hard-to-clean driveways, sidewalks, and patios as well as brick paving. For wood decks and painted surfaces, switch to the gentler 40-degree nozzle.
HEAVY-DUTY pressure washers in the 2,100 PSI and above range deliver extra cleaning power and are great for large jobs such as long driveways, farm equipment, and paint stripping.
High pressure washing is water pressure of 2400 PSI or greater and is most commonly used for concrete surfaces, decking, boats, or furniture. High Pressure Washing is usually required when removing paint, graffiti or Lichen from a surface.

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

My 2700 new last year worked fine last season and for about an 2 hour this season but then stalled and will not run now. When tryint to restart – It will fire up for 2-3 seconds and then dies. Any
ANSWER :

Honda GX390: Starts OK on idle, idles for 20 seconds or so and dies. Also dies if attempt to increase throttle. Gasoline is new. Cleaned carb and jets – no help. Installed NEW carb, new spacers, new gaskets: SAME PROBLEM, NO CHANGE! Yes, gas is in tank and it’s new. Yes, the gas lever is in the ON position. Yes, it idles with the choke in OFF position. NO it will not run more than a minute, less than that if you attempt to increase throttle. Gas lid vent WORKS; fuel line is clear of obstruction and works fine. ON/OFF switch is ON. Changed oil to proper level with new oil: 10W40; – not over-filled or under filled. It’s 8 years old but only used about 10 to 15 hours per year since new. Nothing I’ve done has changed a thing (except drain cash from my pocket). What does it take to make this machine work again?
ANSWER : Replace the magneto that incorporates the sparkplug wire. The windings to the magneto are weak causing it to die out

Engine stalls out after 15 to 20 seconds of run time
ANSWER : Get a carb kit new fuel lines.new fuel filter, air filter clean the tank and carb install new filters and fuel lines and you should be good… or you could first try pouring the gas in a clean clear container and see if you have water sitting in the bottom, then you could get a way w changing the gas you might have to let it stall out on you a couple times before you get rid of the water in the lines and carb run it on a littl less than 3/4 choke.

Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

Gas trimmer runs for a few seconds and then stops
ANSWER : Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that youbuy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm willget hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turnsthey were in/out.Please rate me, ThanksGood Luck, I hope this helped

Stalls under load nearly new chainsaw ran great last fall this spring stalls under load starts and runs fine otherwise
ANSWER : Try opening up the high speed jet, see if it does any better. Turn it just a quarter turn at a time, if opening it up doesn’t do anything, try closing it. If that doesn’t do it, try closing it down all the way, then open it up 1 1/2 turns, this will put you into run mode, you can adjust it from there. You have 2 screws on the side of the carb, low, high, they are marked, don’t be afraid to turn, that is what they are for. Check it out.

New pressure washer runs starts and runs for 30-45 minutes with no problems then dies and will not restart. Once it cools for a few minutes it will restart but will die again quickly. If it is allowed to sit for 30+ minutes it will run for another half hour but then dies again. Changed oil, gas, checked all obvious areas. Any suggestions?
ANSWER : Try removing the carb bowl and check for dirt/water etc , also if the machine is over heating it may be getting vapour locked