bottom one and the welding stops
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AC (Alternating Current) and DC (Direct Current) are the two different types of electric current that are used in the welding process. AC arc welding is commonly used for down-hand heavy plate welds, fast fills and with aluminium TIG welding with high frequency, while DC welding is better for welding thinner metals.
Stick welding, also known as manual metal arc (MMA) welding refers to a welding method where a filler rod in the electrode holder serves as the welding electrode. The arc burns between the rod and the workpiece.
DC welding definition
DC welding employs a direct current with constant polarity flow in one direction. The current can be positive or negative, with positive polarity flowing from the welder to the workpiece to the electrode and back to the welder.
AC TIG is much louder than DC. As amperage increases, welding noise will also increase. At lower frequencies, you will hear a slow pulse sound as you weld.
What are the differences between TIG (DC) and TIG (AC)? Direct current TIG (DC) welding is when the current flows in one direction only. Compared with AC (Alternating Current) TIG welding the current once flowing will not go to zero until welding has ended.
MIG is generally seen as being easier to learn and perform as well as being faster and better for welding thick materials. However, TIG welding offers greater control and precision, is better for thinner materials and offers neater welds with little finishing required.
The MMA (Stick) welding process typically requires high current (50-350 Amps) at relatively low voltage (10-50 Volts). The MMA welding electrodes are designed to operate on different types of output power and voltage and you should always read the manufacturers data.
DC stick welding offers advantages over AC when welding steel, including smoother and more stable arcs, easier starts, fewer arc outages, less spatter and easier vertical up and overhead welding. DC positive polarity provides a high level of penetration into the steel.
Explanation: Arc stability in welding is generally better with a direct current (DC) power supply compared to an alternating current (AC) power supply.
Welding with high-powered lasers was found to give noise levels around 85-90dB.
Adjustable AC Output Frequency
Frequencies between 80 and 120 Hz are comfortable to work with, increase control of the arc, and boost travel speeds. Setting the frequency from 120 to 200 Hz provides an ideal frequency for most aluminum welding.
Welders typically use AC for arc welding when they want heavy plate welds, fast fills, and are using TIG welding. DC welding is better for those working with thinner metals. Since AC is unpredictable and unreliable for welding, there are certain materials where a welder would use AC.
A power supply is used to generate the arc, which can either use an alternating current (AC) or a direct current (DC). The choice of power source (AC or DC) decides the polarity of the electrical current that runs through the electrode. The power source used also impacts the weld produced.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
When the furnace kicks on the blower makes a noise like the squirrel cage or what ever is rubbing against a side, but after it gets going the scraping noise stops and then again when the furnace shuts of and the blower motor is coming to a stop it make a scraping noise Can I grease it or adjust it, or is it just buy a whole new assembly?
Sounds like it is off balance may check it for objects or loose bolts or screws that hole it in place
Mitech 200 ac/dc tig/mma welds for about 1 inch. then start making a buzzing noise inside, then one of the small red LEDs inside comes on. The bottom one and the welding stops
Motor starts, stops, starts, stops etc never running completely. not putting out much water pressure. not building pressure??
Is you nozzle plugged? That is what this sounds like.
Starts and stops starts and stops blowing snow, is the belt lose or waren or streched ? model 3650 6.5
Take the black cover off of the side (left) and look at the belt. It is probably worn out.
My Mantis Tiller won’t start and there is grinding type noise when I try and start it. I recently did some very lengthy trench digging over a period of about 2 months.
It sounds like the clutch springs may be overheated and the clutch shoes rub while you try to start it.If you loosten the screw that holds the engine to the gear box you can try to start it without the clutch and see if that is it.Good luck
Honda gx200The water blaster just stopped and I change the spark plug but still only a very small spark that is when it sparks?Coil buggered?
Very small spark okay as long as its blue and not bright yellow.try using starting fluid if runs might want to see if carburetor is getting fuel.
Does not run, will start with starting fluid – Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller
You should never use starting fluid on this model.
Add a couple of ounces of 100% acetone (available at Walmart) to some fresh fuel. Attempt to start for several pulls. Let sit for several minutes and repeat until it sounds like it wants to run.
Then watch this video and do it:
My new Husqvarna lawn tractor has had a bit of a problem with backfiring and smoking at startup since I purchased it new last summer….but it always ran perfectly so I didn’t complain. Now, however, it actually sounds “funny” when I’m riding on it. If I had you on the phone, I could make the noise (ha). It’s like the motor goes up and down in volume AHH uhh AHH uhh AHH uhh 1-2 second intervals…..with the continuation of an occasional backfire. I only have about 4 hours on the mower so far and as I said, I’ve never had a starting problem and it cuts beautifully….but I need to know if this is an issue that needs to concern me or if this is a common occurrence. Someone told me it sounded like there may be a bit of water in the gas….so we tried a small amount of a product designed to get rid of the water in a gas tank. Strangely, this seemed to help for about 20 minutes…..then it started making the rhythmic sound again. Help?
It’s called “hunting” and its caused by the engine running too lean. It needs the carby and fuel system cleaning out. Also the fuel shut off solenoid in the bottom of the carby needs checking for proper function. Regards Phil