hen plugged it in and tried starting it to see if it had a spark. is this the way to see if I have spark? Also, when I push the prime, the button is clear. should I see actual fuel being sucked into there? Maybe the lines are clogged? This unit is practically new, so i’m kind of upset about it. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined but I could really use some help rather than tear the unit apart. Please get back to me. I really really really appreciate it! Thank you so much. Colby
30cc 17″ String Trimmer Zrry30530 Wcurve Shaft
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Spray some ether (starting fluid) in the carb
If it starts you have a fuel problem if not more likely an ignition issue.
Pressing the primer bulb you should see gas flow through both lines if not it could be a clogged filter located at the end of one of the hoses inside the fuel tank, or a leak that doesn’t allow the primer to draw gas.
Dirty gas plays havoc on small carbs.
I’ve fixed a number of “non-starters” by removing and disassembling the carbs and soaking them in clean gas for 10 minutes then blowing out the ports with small engine carb cleaner
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Remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner into the intake. Let it sit for several minutes to help loosen and dissolve varnish. Replace the filter and try starting the trimmer. If this doesn`t solve the problem, consider disassembling the carburetor to give it a more thorough cleaning.
Turn on the ignition switch and pull the starting cord quickly. You should see a spark in the plug gap. Since the spark may be faint, it may help to do the test in a dark area. If there is no spark, check for a broken or shorted (bare) lead wire or bad switch.
If the engine is not revving up and cuts out before you reach higher revs then you need to do the following checks: Fuel: Make sure it is fresh and correctly mixed (see `Starting Issues`). Air filter: Make sure it is clean and unclogged. Fuel cap: Make sure it`s hand-tight.
A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the hedge trimmer for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall or run roughly.
Check the Fuel Filter To start, tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If that doesn`t work, you might have a clogged filter. Not all lawn mowers have a fuel filter, but for the ones that do, it`s usually located in the fuel line or the fuel tank.
If your trimmer engine idles, but stalls on throttle, check the following parts: the gasket, primer bulb, fuel filter, air filter, fuel vent, fuel line, and carburetor. The repair and symptom guide will help you better identify the part needed to be replaced and how.
Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. This includes worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad plug wires or a cracked distributor cap.
First prime the carburetor, by pressing the priming bulb five time. This ensures there is enough fuel into the engine to start the engine. Activate the choke and pull the starter cord until the engine ignites. Once the engine has stopped deactivate the choke and pull the starter cord again until the engine starts.
If you realise that your mix isn`t right, the best thing is to stop your machine and drain the fuel. Mix some fuel that is at the correct ratio, clean any air filters and make good. If it is an incorrect mixture over a prolonged time then it`s not good news.
If your trimmer engine idles, but stalls on throttle, check the following parts: the gasket, primer bulb, fuel filter, air filter, fuel vent, fuel line, and carburetor. The repair and symptom guide will help you better identify the part needed to be replaced and how.
The clutch engages the clutch pads to spin the trimmer head. If the clutch assembly is defective, the clutch will not disengage the clutch pads, and the trimmer head will continue to spin, even at low speeds. If the clutch is defective, replace it. (Note: some string trimmers do not have a clutch.
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I’ve got gas (mixture) but it will not start. I haven’t changed the spark plug yet but it will be done today. I took the sparkplug out and then plugged it in and tried starting it to see if it had a spark. is this the way to see if I have spark? Also, when I push the prime, the button is clear. should I see actual fuel being sucked into there? Maybe the lines are clogged? This unit is practically new, so i’m kind of upset about it. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined but I could really use some help rather than tear the unit apart. Please get back to me. I really really really appreciate it! Thank you so much. Colby
ANSWER : Spray some ether (starting fluid) in the carb
If it starts you have a fuel problem if not more likely an ignition issue.
Pressing the primer bulb you should see gas flow through both lines if not it could be a clogged filter located at the end of one of the hoses inside the fuel tank, or a leak that doesn’t allow the primer to draw gas.
Dirty gas plays havoc on small carbs.
I’ve fixed a number of “non-starters” by removing and disassembling the carbs and soaking them in clean gas for 10 minutes then blowing out the ports with small engine carb cleaner
Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
I bought a Poulan PPB100 at a yard sale for $20.00. I got it home and got it started and running but it leaked gas like no tomorrow. I took it apart to see what was needed and found that all the fuel lines were crumbling. I cleaned out the tank and cleaned the carb and blew it out with compressed air from a can (computer stuff). I replaced the fuel lines but I’m not sure if I oriented them correctly. There are two lines going through the tank. A very skinny one and a larger one. I connected the new fuel tank pickup to the larger one. I also don’t know if I got the primer bulb tubes correct. The string trimmer starts using the normal procedure but it only runs best at half choke. Turning the choke off makes it die. Also if I give it throttle too fast, it’ll stall and die. What else can I do? Are the fuel lines and primer tubes the problem?
ANSWER : This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump….that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb “pulls” fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used,…you choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above…a few pulls, a “pop”…slide it off of choke and away you went.If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb…small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
The fuel lines have rotted out of the edger gas tank. How do I fix or do I need to replace entire tank with new fuel lines?Since there are no male fuel line connections exiting the fuel tank and just two holes where the lines were, I guess I need to replace the entire tank and get a new one with lines already attached. Thanks.
ANSWER : No you can buy replacement fuel line but you must reconnect the filter in the tank that line goes to the bottom of the carby then out the top of the carby to the inlet on the primer then out of the primer and back to the tank.
What kind of spark plug do i use in a pb-251c . i have a champion plug in it now but will not start check fuel filter seem to be ok im getting a spark at the plug and also added fresh fuel what can it be
I have a Ryobi RHT 2660DA Hedge trimmer that will not start. I have tried the following things;
1. Replacing the spark plug. There is a good spark on both the old and new plug.
2. Adjusted the carburetor as suggested.
3. Put a teaspoon of fuel into the spark plug hole directly. Does not even try.
4. Tried easy start in the spark plug hole directly and into carburetor. No joy.
5. Took off carburetor and cleaned a suggested. No joy.
6. Replaced the available diaphragms (4 in all). No joy.
7. Replace carburetor with a new one. Same result.
8. Checked compression which was only about 50 per square inch.
9. Checked tightness of crankcase screws. All tight.
10. Replace crankcase gasket. Still same compression result. Again no joy.
11. This machine is about 5 years old but only used about 5 or 6 times so should not be a wear problem.
12. Replace mixture (did this early on in the sequence)
13. Took off exhaust which was full of fluid. Cleaned and dried, but to no avail.
14. Stripped unit down as I started to believe this was a timing or compression problems, but I cannot get the bottom clutch unit off (do not know how to remove it as it looks like an interference fit on the shaft. As a result I cannot get to the flywheel to see whether the key way or key has sheared or the timing has somehow moved.
I am now at a lost of a way forward. I would appreciate any help or suggestions. At the moment I am left with what is an expensive piece of junk.