tarts right up again and then takes about 5 minutes before shutting down. Fuel is fresh, carb is clean, and oil is new (was doing this before I changed oil). No low oil light comes on as it quits. Any suggestions?
Garden
Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
It is possible the low oil switch is bad or a carb issue.
To test the low oil switch, simply unplug the wire and isolate it so it can not touch ground.
If the set will continue to run, then you know that either the switch is bad or there is actually a pressure problem.
If it still will not run, it is a fuel issue.
The first thing you need to do is to loosen the gas cap.
If the set will run with the gas cap loose, you probably have a plugged vent in the cap.
If it still will not run, the problem is most likely a carburetor that has become partially restricted.
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
If you are running too much equipment on too small of a generator, the generator may shut down in order to avoid putting too much stress on your appliances. The only way to remedy a loss of power due to overload is to shut off the generator, reduce the load by unplugging unneeded appliances, and restart the generator.
It might be that the oil level in the engine is too high or too low. In case the oil level is too low, the generator will start but stop after a few seconds. The shutoff is typically caused by the fact that the oil temperature is rising too quickly. This creates an alert for the engine to stop running.
Generac generators can run continuously in an outage for a maximum of 7 days, depending on the size of the fuel tank and power load. These generators are designed to be fuel efficient yet powerful, enabling them to provide continuity of service during extended outages.
Either the oil level is too low or too high in your machine. With low oil levels, you can start your generator but after a few seconds, the temperature of the oil rises too quickly and it causes the system to shut down.
Why does your generator not produce any power / voltage? The most common causes of a generator producing no power are the loss of residual magnetism in the alternator and a failed AVR or another excitation component. If the voltage is around 50-70V on each phase, then it is likely the AVR needs replacement.
As the outside temperatures rise, it is possible for the fuel tank to pressurize or actually become vacuum sealed due to the gas cap failing to check the pressure or vacuum.
As their business grows, their power needs increase, and the same generator is expected to take on the extra load. Over time, this will wear the system down and eventually cause it to shut down much faster than intended.
Manufacturers typically recommend that your generator run continuously for no more than 500 hours maximum. A portable generator, however, should only run continuously for shorter periods of time – between six to 18 hours, depending on the model.
Although there are many variables, Generac backup generators have an average of 3000 lifespan operating hours. This means you have a good margin for obtaining over 30 years of backup generator operation.
Generac standby generators are specifically designed to provide approximately 3,000 hours of use with continuous run times of up to 500 hours. The fuel source that a generator uses is the other significant factor that can affect its continuous run-time capabilities.
Check the fuel gauge for very low fuel levels in the tank. Look for fuel pipe restrictions, bends or damage that may be preventing sufficient fuel getting through to the engine. Also, sediment in the fuel tank may also be causing the issue.
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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
I own a Generac 4000EXL generator,10 yrs old, which runs well for about 8-10 minutes at a time, then shuts down like it has been turned off. Starts right up again and then takes about 5 minutes before shutting down. Fuel is fresh, carb is clean, and oil is new (was doing this before I changed oil). No low oil light comes on as it quits. Any suggestions?
ANSWER : It is possible the low oil switch is bad or a carb issue.
To test the low oil switch, simply unplug the wire and isolate it so it can not touch ground.
If the set will continue to run, then you know that either the switch is bad or there is actually a pressure problem.
If it still will not run, it is a fuel issue.
The first thing you need to do is to loosen the gas cap.
If the set will run with the gas cap loose, you probably have a plugged vent in the cap.
If it still will not run, the problem is most likely a carburetor that has become partially restricted.
Husqvarna iz4817 change oil light needs to be reset
ANSWER : The oil change reminder will flash at 49 hrs for 2 hrs then reset itself. It will do this every 50 hrs.
It won’t stay running. have cleaned the gas tank and it just had a tune up. runs fine then gets rough and quits. If I push the bulb it smooths out and runs fine for a couple of minutes and then begins hesitating again. Now today it ran for about 15 min. and now it won’t start. It wants to. runs for a couple of seconds 5-10 and then quits.
ANSWER : Remove the float bowl and empty the contents out clean and replace
Low oil pressure while car is in idle..check gauge light comes on. I had the oil pump replaced and the sludge cleaned up. The check guage light still comes on when car is in idle and epecially when the car is hot.
ANSWER : Sounds like your oil pump replacement was left too late.sounds like a worn engine due to oil starvation with the previous low oil pressure and sludge problem.to verify the oil pressure you need to fit an oil pressure guage. to make sure it isnt just a faulty oil pressure switch.The specifications of the oil pressure for your vehicle will be in the haynes/bentley repair manual or find it online.Do you have the corect grade of oil in it?
Tiller won’t stay cranked
ANSWER : The carb needs a thorough cleaning
