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3000 Psigaspressure Washer

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You will have to strip the carb and replace the gaskets and diaphragms. Gas goes gummy after such a long period and just about everything will be gunged up, so much so that you will find that about the only thing that will clean it effectively will be lacquer thinners.

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The number one cause of low or no pressure when using a pressure washer is a blocked or worn nozzle. Blocked nozzles will prevent water from escaping, while a worn nozzle will allow too much water to pass through, causing the pressure to drop.
Clogged carburetors or air filters can cause a pressure washer not to start. If your pressure washer won`t start, you can also check for a clogged carburetor or air filter.
Water pressure is typically measured in pounds per square inch (psi). Gas-powered models typically put out 2,000 to 2,800 psi of pressure compared with 1,300 to 1,700 psi for electric models.
For hard surfaces, such as concrete and brick, a higher PSI pressure washer with 2000-3000 PSI of water pressure is ideal. Such a device can effectively clean dirt and grime from these hard surfaces.
How Do I Tell If My Unloader Valve is Bad? In most occurrences, the first symptom of an unloader valve going bad is no pressure from the wand when the trigger is pressed. This happens when the unloader valve gets stuck open and does not allow water to enter the hose and trigger.
Put your finger into the drain outlet and feel the impellers if the pump freely turns. One or more of them may be broken. If so, you`ll be able to feel them while you`re turning the pump flywheel with your other hand. You also may see broken pieces of plastic in the bottom of the pump housing.
If it takes two minutes or less, you`ll be fine, since most pressure washers need 2-1/2 gallon per minute to work. To ensure that water circulates unobstructed through the system, check the water inlet filter or screen and clean it of debris. Also, make sure the garden and pressure hoses are kink free.
There could be small leaks, holes, or tears in your garden hose or high-pressure hose that are causing your pressure washer to lose pressure when you pull the trigger. If you find leaks, plug the holes or replace the hose, which should solve your pressure issues.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?

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I have a John Deere L118 Limited Edition (w/ 20 HP B&S engine), which I purchased about 8 years ago. It ran well with few problems up to late this summer. I believe the problem started when I accidentally filled the tank with some stale gasoline – the tractor turned over, but would not start. I drained the fuel tank and filled it with fresh gas, but it still would not start. When I use starter fluid, the tractor starts for 4-5 seconds, and then cuts off. I installed a new fuel filter. The connections in the fuel line seem tight, so while the problem might be the vacuum fuel pump itself, I do not think it is due to a leak in the line. I disconnected the fuel line at the carburetor — fuel flows through the line at start up. But when I put the fuel line directly into the air intake (with some starting fluid), the engine still cuts off in about 4 seconds. I am not sure if the pump simply is not drawing enough fuel into the carburetor. I understand that, if it is a problem with a safety cut-off, the engine would not start at all (even for 4 seconds). My thought was that the problem may be a gummed up carburetor, but that would not explain why the tractor does not start when I feed fuel directly into the carburetor. Any thoughts about other things I can try before bringing the tractor to a mechanic?
ANSWER : Just take the carb bowl off its easy one bolt on the bottom of it get the old gas out flush all old gas out of tank and line then it will run trust me i know

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My Honda lawn mower 3813 is general very easy to start and will start almost immediately when I turn the switch. However there are times that it will not start no matter what I do. When this happens I do not have any spark when I take out the plug and ground it to the frame. When it is starting and working OK I can get a spark. I think that there is a problem with the ignation system. I have taken it to the repair shop or dealer several times but by the time I get it there it starts and they are not able to diagnose the problem. Only once that I have had it stop when I was running it. the problem seems to be more prevelent in cooler weather in spring and fall. When I first turn on the switch I can hear the fuel pump pulsating very rapidly and the as it pumps up will slow down. Sometimes when I turn the switch it will pulsate very slowly, perhaps once every 3 or 4 seconds. I have become aware that when this happens it will not start but when it pulsates rapidly it will start. I do not think it is a fuel problem as I can smell fuel when I choke it and turn it over for a while. I am wondering if it could be a faulty switch or some other electrical problem in which it is not getting a full amperage to the electrical system? I would appreciates any suggestions.
ANSWER : Check to see if your engine has a low oil sensor. Most Honda’s have one. If the oil gets low or you all of a sudden have a bad oil leak, the sensor will kill the fire to the spark plug, saving your engine from running with low or no oil. Sometimes these sensors go out from time to time. It will be on the side of the block with wires coming out of it. Unplug it and check your oil again before doing this test. If your engine continues to run and does not shut off, this sensor is the problem. Good luck.

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ANSWER : You will have to strip the carb and replace the gaskets and diaphragms. Gas goes gummy after such a long period and just about everything will be gunged up, so much so that you will find that about the only thing that will clean it effectively will be lacquer thinners.

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My Husqvarna 323L trimmer will no longer start after I added fuel and cranked it several times with the switch set to off. When I realized then corrected the switch, it still would not start. Before now, it always started on the first or second pull. I have checked for compression, spark and fuel. All seems fine, it just won’t start. The fuel is fresh and is the same fuel I used with no problem in my blower. Any ideas? Thanks!
ANSWER : Let it sit 2 hrs. then try to start it as usual.

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

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I purchased my Toro recycler 22″ self propelled mower a few months back. I used it 2-3 times and it worked find, started right up every time. It sat for about a month and a half with the fuel in it, but didn’t have any fuel stabilizer in it. When I tried to start it it would only start up, run for about 2-3 seconds and die. I checked the bowl and it was dirty so I drained out all the fuel and put in new fresh fuel with a fuel stabilizer as recommended. It started right up so I thought the problem was solved but when I tried again it has the same problem. I don’t think it’s a clogged fuel line, when I take the line off fuel runs out. Any suggestions?

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