tiles, I hate heights and don’t want to get on the roof outside to fix new tiles. A friend with some roofing experience said I could just shove silicon bath sealant all over the putty and it will last 10 years or so.
Any of you have better idea or is that a viable solution?
Garden
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Hi,That is exactly what I was thinking….I think that your friend has the best solution to this problem…the silicone if it is a good quality will make a very good bond to the glass and it may well last more then ten years…I would get the best silicone you can buy or look for a product called “Lexel” it is a silicone alternative that is also a very good adhesive… it stays flexible and is paintable.Do a google search to buy it online or ask for it at your local hardware…heatman101
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
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Often, the primary cause of a leaking roof is simply that the roofing materials have reached the end of their lifespan. While most roof tiles are designed to last for decades, eventually their level of protection will wane and make them more prone to water ingress.
First, apply a liberal amount of roof patch to the problem area, and use a scraper to cover the entire area in an even coating. Once this has had time to dry, you should apply caulking around the edges and any holes to ensure it is sealed and waterproof.
Water Absorption These materials, like concrete roof tiles, have a tendency to absorb moisture when not properly treated and weatherproofed. Without these sealants or other forms of treatment, rainwater, moisture from fall foliage, and even air moisture can all seep into the material.
Whilst roof tiles and slates are designed to keep out any rain, there is always the chance that strong winds can lead to rain forcing its way through any gaps or underneath the tiles.
Roof leaks that happen during heavy rains may indicate the end of the shingles` life. Metal corrosion. Cracks in metal and corrosion around fasteners can create enough space for water to leak. Over time, expansion and contraction can loosen the seams in a metal roof.
Apply a Coating Instead of repairing small portions or replacing the entire roof, you can apply a silicone coating directly to the existing roof. This eliminates leaks and improves the performance of the roof coating. Once this process is complete you have a completely new, leak-free roof that will last up to 20 years!
Waterproofing is carried out under the roof tiles by using special sealing membranes. Beyond effective waterproofing, these membranes should have the following properties: They must be vapor-permeable, in order to avoid condensation of water vapor, which leads to damage (distortion, rotting, etc.)
Using roof cement is one of the best sealants for cracked or broken roof tiles. Roof cement works best in dry conditions and the method involves brushing away any bits of debris from the hole in your roof before filling it in with the cement.
So, when the warm air rises up into the roof, 12 grams of water per cubic metre of air needs to go somewhere. When a surface is cooler than the dew point temperature (when the air is fully saturated with water vapour), condensation will occur as droplets, typically on the underside of the roof underlay.
Roofs are designed to protect you and your family from rain and the elements. They`re designed to hold up in harsh conditions, but they can`t withstand everything and they do break down over time, leading to leaks. Sometimes issues are big enough that the roof leaks every time it rains.
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I have four roof tiles that are partially glass and the putty has come away from the edge of them. This is causing water to leak all across all tiles, I hate heights and don’t want to get on the roof outside to fix new tiles. A friend with some roofing experience said I could just shove silicon bath sealant all over the putty and it will last 10 years or so.
Any of you have better idea or is that a viable solution?
ANSWER : Hi,That is exactly what I was thinking….I think that your friend has the best solution to this problem…the silicone if it is a good quality will make a very good bond to the glass and it may well last more then ten years…I would get the best silicone you can buy or look for a product called “Lexel” it is a silicone alternative that is also a very good adhesive… it stays flexible and is paintable.Do a google search to buy it online or ask for it at your local hardware…heatman101
Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
ANSWER : My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
I have a Northstar pressure washer powered by a honda GC160 engine. The last time i used it, water leaks from the bottom of the unit, whether it is running or not. When running, the pressure is fine. I have felt underneath and it appears that the water is coming from the second opening from the rear. Is there a pressure relief valve there. I have a manual but cannot find any descriptors for underneath the motor.
ANSWER : This is a piston seal issue. You can get a kit to rebuild the pump.
Culligan water filter is leaking – Culligan HF-365 Whole House Water Filter Housing
ANSWER : Turn off water
Remove filter and seal ring.
Look at mating surfaces.
Usually the cast metal has eroded away.
If it is the sealing ring , replace it. If it is the casting , replace the whole thing. Other brands may be an option.
Water leeks out of pump
ANSWER : Ware on the pump dose it leak because it dose have a tempature sensitive blow out valve 145 degrees water temp . And what kind of pump is on this mechine CAT MITI M or simpsion al though it could be a lot of other brands from all over the world because no one builds it all with power washers they may put there name on it but use parts from all over
I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
Pouring out oil.
ANSWER : Where is it pouring out from? Might you be over filling the mower? Is your drain plug tight? the right thread? (meteric vs non-metric?) if the casting is cracked, you are done. The other items are probably correctable.
I loaned my K2.55 to somebody else and it is now heavely leaking just above the detergent housing element. It appears to come from under the metal cover (visible after I removed the plastic housing)
I want to send you a picture. How can I send that to you?
Ed
ANSWER : Ed,If you can send over a picture of where this leak is at I can advise you as to how to fix the problem. See contact info below. From your description it sounds like the leak is coming from behind the head of the pump which is commonly caused by failing water seals around the pistons.Sincerely,Aron KerrLanda
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