[SOLVED] I Have An Old AEG Rotary Hammer Model PH200. It Will Drill But No Longer Hammer. It's Been In Storage About 10 Yrs. Can You Tell Me What To ...

do to get it hammering again? I think it worked fine when it was put in storage.
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If your hammer drill won`t turn on, check the carbon brushes, switch, power cord, holder, armature, and field. If you notice any signs of damage or wear and tear on any of these parts, read the corresponding repair advice for how to fix it. Refer to your owner`s manual for detailed instructions for your model.

It is best to clean your rotary hammer drill after each completed project. Simply take a dry cotton cloth or an old kitchen towel and wipe the coarse dust, dirt and any oil residue from the housing.

Before selecting the best rotary hammer for drilling into concrete and/or masonry, determine the diameter of the holes you need to drill. The diameter of the holes will dictate the type of rotary hammer and the bit/tool interface system you will need to select.

Not only is the rotary hammer more powerful, it can actually beat (a rotation of the drill) around 5 times less than a high-end hammer drill. This means a tool that`s stronger and a lot more comfortable to use, sending much less vibrations through your hands and arms.

When your power tools lose their oomph (and it`s not a low battery), the most likely cause is old, worn carbon brushes that need replacing. The carbon brushes are the small carbon blocks that transfer the electrical current from your power source to the tool`s motor itself. These wear out through use.

The most common reason a drill doesn`t spin straight is that the drill bit is not properly centered in the chuck. Be sure the drill bit is fully inserted into the center of the chuck, and is not clamped off-center.

How long will bits last? Speed and bit life depend on several factors, including the type of aggregate, age of the concrete, type and sharpness of the bit and the amount of steel or rebar in the concrete. Generally, you can expect to drill between 150 and 250 holes with each bit.

Under normal working conditions the rubber components of a hammer should last 4000 m. It is recommended to service all hammers after 4000 m. All internal parts should be checked and all rubber parts replaced.

Drilling into concrete is difficult because concrete is dense, hard, and has embedded aggregate stones that can be obstacles to the drill bit. Drilling can quickly dull drill bits. When the bit encounters aggregate, the bit drags even more.

When using a hammer drill, you only need to withdraw the bit occasionally to remove concrete dust. Running a small amount of water over the area while drilling will reduce the heat of the bit and the friction between the sides of the concrete and the drill.

Whereas hammer drills stop being practical at holes around 1/2-inch in size, a rotary hammer can drill holes as large as 2″ in diameter. Even when used on smaller holes, a rotary hammer drills much more quickly into concrete than a hammer drill with the same-sized bit.

The battery needs to be charged

If the trigger is pulled and the drill does not move the battery might need to be charged. Place the battery on the charger for at least an hour and test the drill again to see if it has power.

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I have an old AEG Rotary Hammer Model PH200. It will drill but no longer hammer. It’s been in storage about 10 yrs. Can you tell me what to do to get it hammering again? I think it worked fine when it was put in storage.

ANSWER :

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I have an old AEG Rotary Hammer Model PH200. It will drill but no longer hammer. It's been in storage about 10 yrs. Can you tell me what to do to get it hammering again? I think it worked fine when it was put in storage.

ANSWER : The only thing you can do without replacing parts is to spray something like WD-40 in the air chuck with the trigger pulled until your sure it has saturated everything. You should also remove the rear cover and saturate the inside of the unit… outside of the cylinder so that eveything inside gets coated (put cover back on) and let it soak over night. Then hang it by a rope, take a block of wood and a hammer and give it some good hits on the wood on all sides trying to to break anything. The hammer mechanism is rusted / corroded and your trying to free it up without replacing it by striking the block of wood against the side of the rotary hammer with a hammer. May sound nuts.. but have done this on some of my own inherited tools and revived them. It does not always work!

Hopefuly you can still find spares fo this unit of you need them. I think your best chance of finding spares will be here via the on-line email form:
http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/cgi-bin/mf000002.pl?ACTION=SHOWFORM

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.

ANSWER : My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?

Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.

Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.

I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.

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Oil is fine, runs fine for about 10 minutes then bogs down and dies. Let it sit for 10 minutes it will start again and run fine for another 10 minutes. Used to be 20 minutes, then 15. The cooler the weather the longer it runs. Is there some electrical component that may be getting weak? 17.5 hp Briggs. Air cooled. Air filters have been changed but didn’t help. Plug wire?About 5 yrs old. Help – It’s taking six hours to mow………..

ANSWER : It could easily be an electrical issue, or not. Get a spark tester (hooks up to the spark plug). Pep boys, Autozone, and Napa all sell them for less than $10. Check for spark when the mower has quit. If no spark, most likely need to replace the ignition module. Also check the flywheel key, if it is has been sheared or even knicked, the engine will run hot.If you still have spark when engine has failed, check the vent on the gas cap. A clogged vent will cause a vacuum to form in the tank and stall the engine.Good luck!

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How do you remove the ignition coil? I can remove the bolt quite easily, but how do you remove the post which secures the other end of the coil?

ANSWER : Would of been very helpful if you would of mentioned the engine you are working on… model/serial numbers would of been even better !!!

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Can I use a 20 inch bar and chain on this model? I have a automatic mac 10-10
And thanks

ANSWER : YOU CAN TRY IT BUT THE MORE CHAIN LENGTH THE MORE POWER IT NEEDS.

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I have a 2003 (old) riding mower. Just recently, the tractor has started to stall very soon after starting. Upon trying to re-start it gets flooded and requires a wait to get going but once going again, it stalls soon after. I HATE Sears service and this is an old tractor but works (worked) great. I would think maybe bad gas? I can’t get the gas out easily and thinking it may not be that.

ANSWER : Hello,
My name is Dane and I’ll try to help you with your problem.
I think you have a bad coil. A coil will operate fine on initial startup, but go bad after warming up. Get a cheap coil tester from an auto parts store an install it between the spark plug and the plug wire. Be careful on the next step because the engine can start. Turn the engine over and check for a bright light on your tester. If the light is dim or not producing at all, replace the coil. If the engine starts, allow it to run until it dies then recheck. If your coil checks ok, the other possibility is that your float isn’t allowing the fuel to enter the carb fast enough to keep up with the demand of the engine. Thus, the engine sits idle, the carb bowl fills and it will run for a while until it goes dry again. This is caused from bad gas and deposits in your carb. You will probably need to remove, disassemble, soak, and use compressed air to blow out the jets in your carb. Pay close attention to how the carb is attached to the engine and disassembled. Make a drawing if you need to or take some pictures. Disassemble the carb as far as possible and put it in the cleaning solution. Do not place rubber parts in the solution. Allow it to soak in cleaner overnight, and then blow out the ports and jets with compressed air before you assemble and reinstall it.
I hope I’ve helped. If you found this information useful, please leave feedback as deserved. Thanks! Dane

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Ryobi cordless drill. I was using my cordless 18V drill last week and all of a sudden the switch on the drill quit working, I put on a new battery but when you press the switch, NOTHING happens, it acts as though the switch is defective. Can this switch be replaced at a cost less than buying a new ryobi cordless drill. Thanks for any help.

ANSWER :

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