do to get it hammering again? I think it worked fine when it was put in storage.
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
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If the trigger is pulled and the drill does not move the battery might need to be charged. Place the battery on the charger for at least an hour and test the drill again to see if it has power.
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Hopefuly you can still find spares fo this unit of you need them. I think your best chance of finding spares will be here via the on-line email form:
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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
My name is Dane and I’ll try to help you with your problem.
I think you have a bad coil. A coil will operate fine on initial startup, but go bad after warming up. Get a cheap coil tester from an auto parts store an install it between the spark plug and the plug wire. Be careful on the next step because the engine can start. Turn the engine over and check for a bright light on your tester. If the light is dim or not producing at all, replace the coil. If the engine starts, allow it to run until it dies then recheck. If your coil checks ok, the other possibility is that your float isn’t allowing the fuel to enter the carb fast enough to keep up with the demand of the engine. Thus, the engine sits idle, the carb bowl fills and it will run for a while until it goes dry again. This is caused from bad gas and deposits in your carb. You will probably need to remove, disassemble, soak, and use compressed air to blow out the jets in your carb. Pay close attention to how the carb is attached to the engine and disassembled. Make a drawing if you need to or take some pictures. Disassemble the carb as far as possible and put it in the cleaning solution. Do not place rubber parts in the solution. Allow it to soak in cleaner overnight, and then blow out the ports and jets with compressed air before you assemble and reinstall it.
I hope I’ve helped. If you found this information useful, please leave feedback as deserved. Thanks! Dane