ed the return line
3. Cleaned the carburator (all gaskets seem intact)
4. Check spark plug (all good)
5. Changed fuel ( I have an edger and use the same fuel mix ture and it starts)
6. Pulled the muffler off and cleaned all the gunk out
7. Cleaned fuel filter
I have tried pulling the plug and spraying some carb cleaner down the hole. after I return the plug, it will start for a few seconds then I can’t get it started again. If I spray more it will do the same. Not sure if that is mabe the reason it won’t start, but I don’t know how to remedy it. Please help
Rapid Loader, Trimmer Head
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1. Changed the fuel line
2. Changed the return line
3. Cleaned the carburator (all gaskets seem intact)
4. Check spark plug (all good)
5. Changed fuel ( I have an edger and use the same fuel mix ture and it starts)
6. Pulled the muffler off and cleaned all the gunk out
7. Cleaned fuel filter
I have tried pulling the plug and spraying some carb cleaner down the hole. after I return the plug, it will start for a few seconds then I can’t get it started again. If I spray more it will do the same. Not sure if that is mabe the reason it won’t start, but I don’t know how to remedy it. Please help
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
1. Replacing the spark plug. There is a good spark on both the old and new plug.
2. Adjusted the carburetor as suggested.
3. Put a teaspoon of fuel into the spark plug hole directly. Does not even try.
4. Tried easy start in the spark plug hole directly and into carburetor. No joy.
5. Took off carburetor and cleaned a suggested. No joy.
6. Replaced the available diaphragms (4 in all). No joy.
7. Replace carburetor with a new one. Same result.
8. Checked compression which was only about 50 per square inch.
9. Checked tightness of crankcase screws. All tight.
10. Replace crankcase gasket. Still same compression result. Again no joy.
11. This machine is about 5 years old but only used about 5 or 6 times so should not be a wear problem.
12. Replace mixture (did this early on in the sequence)
13. Took off exhaust which was full of fluid. Cleaned and dried, but to no avail.
14. Stripped unit down as I started to believe this was a timing or compression problems, but I cannot get the bottom clutch unit off (do not know how to remove it as it looks like an interference fit on the shaft. As a result I cannot get to the flywheel to see whether the key way or key has sheared or the timing has somehow moved.
I am now at a lost of a way forward. I would appreciate any help or suggestions. At the moment I am left with what is an expensive piece of junk.