I have replaced fuel and cleaned carb, still going same thing. Any help would be appreciated.
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I had this problem with a hedgecutter. It turned out that the springs were broken in the clutch. If the engine doesn’t stall immediately when the trigger is released and you notice the chain running slowly then this would be an indication that it might be the problem.
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Check the Fuel Flow
The flow of fuel must also remain consistent during operation. If you`re dropping power under load and your air systems are clean, then somewhere gas is leaking from the system. You`ll want to start at the tank, checking the vent hole on the tank to make sure it`s not plugged.
The carburetor might be clogged. A clogged carburetor is often caused by leaving fuel in the chainsaw for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the chainsaw engine to stall.
The fuel line may be clogged from stale fuel deposits, more reasons to cause your chainsaw to cut out when applying throttle. If a fuel line is cracked, it will leak gasoline and draw air from outside into the fuel line. If the line is leaking fuel, it needs to be replaced.
If you do notice the rope slowly extending, then the chainsaw compression is most likely low and needs checking more precisely. The most common places for an air leak to occur are on the crankshafts seals. Damage to the piston or the piston rings may also be the cause of the problem.
To fix the problem, start by draining the gas tank.
Replace the old gas with a fresh mix of gas, being sure to add a stabilizer to keep the ethanol from gelling. Often, just getting fresh gas and stabilizer through the chainsaw`s fuel system may correct the saw and it should stay running.
If your chainsaw bounces around when making contact with the wood, it means that that chains teeth are not grabbing on and ripping through the wood. A sharp chain will cut in a uniform and straight line.
Fuel Filter is Clogged
When it`s clogged, this affects the flow of gasoline to the engine which then causes the engine to stall. The fuel filter will need replacing if it appears to be clogged yet if it seems clean, it may be a different problem causing the engine to cut out.
If your chainsaw engine dies at full throttle, check the following parts: the carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, and muffler. Our repair guide can help you identify the right part to stop your chainsaw`s engine from dying at full throttle.
Generally, two-stroke chainsaw engines are built to conveniently run at full throttle without an engine breakdown. Therefore, running at any throttle speed below the full throttle is not advised. Cutting a thick wood or timber while running at a low speed or throttle can cause the blades of the chainsaw to become dull.
There are many factors that can stop your chainsaw from running, including a bad spark plug or dirty air filter. There are simple problems: a broken fuel line, bad fuel, wrongly calibrated high-low adjustment screw. Also, more complex issues like a damaged carburettor or an engine compression problem.
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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
Ok, here’s my issue. I have a B&S 8hp little wonder leaf blower. I’m having trouble keeping the engine running. I can start it right up, but after a few moments running on wide open, it starts to loose power and wants to shut down. I can keep it running by messing with the choke level, but it only stays running, wont ramp up to full throttle. If I stop manipulating the choke, it’ll die. I can start it back up by putting it in full choke, but have to fool with the choke to keep it running. When I fidget with the lever, I can sometimes get it to briefly run full throttle, but it doesn’t last long before it wants to die. I have replaced fuel, fuel lines, fuel filter, cleaned the carb spotless, replaced plug. Any thoughts? I’ve read about cleaning the fuel tank cap, will try that tonight. My limited knowledge tells me I’m got a fuel delivery issue since it runs and I can keep it running, but there is an issue somewhere. Any ideas?
Did you run a fine wire through all the carb orifices? I use a bristle from a wire brush.
When cutting and after letting off throttle saw runs for maybe 10 seconds and then stalls. Have to constantly restart because will not continue to idle. Runs fine at full power just will not idle for any length of time. Pretty sure needs carb adjustment but not sure how to make adjustment.
The carb may well have anti tamper sleeves on the jet screws, or will need a special splined tool to adjust them, the tool is part no. 530035560, if there are caps you will have to gently screw a self tapping screw into the end, when it hits the head of the screw behind it will draw off, you only need to adjust the L screw, i would suggest turning out 1/8 of a turn to richen it up a little.
I have a craftsman 25 cc string trimmer with fuel problems. After winter, ran tank of good fuel through it and it worked fine. Added fuel (unknowingly with water in it) and it ran on a slow idle and finally died. Drained fuel, took carb apart and cleaned, blowed out carb and reassembled. Still only ran on a slow idle – no throttle response. Took cover off with air cleaner and it ran fine. Seems to blow too much fuel out where filter sits. Put filter back on and runs on slow idle. Almost seems it is flooding, but have not adjusted anything, just cleaned. What do I need to do next?
You shouldn’t notice a difference if you remove the air filter. So I would replace it. Also if you are using compressed air to clean or blow-out the carb. Be careful, its not recommended and could make it worse.
I have a Poulan wild thing 4018. Just replaced the main frame. Had to take apart the whole saw almost. Now the saw will crank but runs at very high speed for a few seconds and then quits. I can goose the throttle a little to keep it running longer but dies eventually. What could be the problem? I have had the cylinder and piston out but didn’t touch the carb. Thanks
Make sure youmhave connected the primer hoses correctly, the shorter of the two connections on the back of the primer ( suction ) goes to the carb, this pulls fuel from the carb, the longer connection dumps fuel back to the tank, if you removed the cylinder end cap, you need to re seal this to the cylinder with instant gasket, also make sure the air tube between the cylinder and carb is correctly seated.
Engin runs fine at idle but stalls out at high idle and wont rev up.
Hi 5flash… Get an assistant and a can of starter fluid. Remove the air cleaner and spray some starter fluid into the air intake. Start it up and spray the starter fluid as you move it to high idle, repeat until it works properly. Joe
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