ully choked, would die if choke pushed in, and eventually would die even with full choke. I changed the fuel and air filters, let it sit over night, ran great for 20 minutes, then died again with same symptoms. Can you help me?
Garden

Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
Only a suggestion.
Get the mower to run. When it begins to die, loosen the fuel cap.
If that solves the problem, clean the cap air vent holes.
If not, you lost nothing and don’t accept my answer.
Gary

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :

A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the lawn mower for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall.
If it is difficult to start the ride-on mower, the most common reasons include: Old fuel; make sure to use fresh fuel, especially after winter storage. Spark plugs might be dirty or damaged. How to examine and replace a spark plug on your ride-on mower.
Loss of power while working

If you feel loss of power while you are working with your Ride-On mower, this could be due to: Damaged belt tensioner which is tensioning the cutting deck belt. The belt connecting the cutting deck being damaged.

A Dirty Carburetor Can Cause a Lawnmower To Start Then Die

By far, the most common issue that causes a stalled motor is a dirty carburetor. The carburetor on your engine is the thing that draws in air and mixes it with the fuel. Contrary to what the movies might make you think, gasoline itself is not very flammable.

A dirty carburetor is the most common cause of a lawn mower that starts and then dies. Other possible causes include: Stale/Dirty Gas. Faulty Choke.
Your Mower Won`t Start:

Other possible causes include: Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten. Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace. Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas.

With proper maintenance, you can expect your Husqvarna riding mower to last up to 10 years or more. How long it will last depends on the model and how well you take care of it. Generally speaking, a Husqvarna riding lawn mower should last for at least 5-7 years with basic maintenance.
One of the common problems with Husqvarna riding mowers is their sudden power loss. If you ask our lawn care team, the problem stems from different reasons like bad gas in the fuel tank, plugged air filter, broken cooling pins, dirty carburetors, and clogged fuel lines.
Whenever the blade is engaged, it rotates on a crankshaft to cut the grass. But if there is interference in this rotation, the engine can overload and shut off or lose power. Check the crankshaft connection to see if it rotates freely. Inspect the connecting hardware for damage or rust.
A bypass lever is located on the back of the frame, pull out on the lever to move the mower and push it back in before mowing.
While the step order can differ slightly between manufacturers, they all follow the same basic procedure. To start your riding lawn mower, engage the brakes, shift the gear to neutral, open the throttle, turn the ignition, and then fix any issues preventing the mower from working properly.
As the fuel level drops, a vacuum begins to form in the fuel tank because air can get in to fill the space the consumed fuel occupied. After about 10 or 15 minutes, the vacuum will become strong enough that fuel will stop flowing to the carburetor and the lawnmower will die.
Condensation inside the gas tank is one culprit, but moisture can also enter the system through a loose or ill fitting gas cap. The best solution is to drain the mower`s gas tank and refill it with fresh gasoline. A clogged fuel filter can also cause a mower engine to die.
A Husqvarna riding mower commonly dies when blades are engaged because the grass box is not fully closed. Other possible causes include: Grass Box Misaligned. Grass Box Sensor Wiring Loose.
It may be a bad spindle bearing that is seizing up when you engage it which puts too much load on the engine and makes it die. You may hear some squealing sounds from the spindle and the belt may smoke. Most all these spindles can be taken apart and you can easily replace the bearings.
The motor is the powerhouse of the mower which is responsible for rotating the blades. Electric lawnmowers may cut out for two main reasons: A faulty power switch or a loose cable connection. An overheating motor can cause the thermal cut out to trip.

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I have a Husqvarna YTH2348, 2 years old, just started using again this season, ran greatfor about 20 minutes, then died. Would only start if fully choked, would die if choke pushed in, and eventually would die even with full choke. I changed the fuel and air filters, let it sit over night, ran great for 20 minutes, then died again with same symptoms. Can you help me?
ANSWER : Only a suggestion.
Get the mower to run. When it begins to die, loosen the fuel cap.
If that solves the problem, clean the cap air vent holes.
If not, you lost nothing and don’t accept my answer.
Gary

Read Full Q/A … : Garden

I know this is a pretty old thread. But I have a 2004 Husqvarna 359 and it does the same thing. Has anyone found the cause of the problem yet. It seems to die from lack of fuel or too lean of a mixture only when the saw is hot. I have : removed the cylinder and found it to be scored very bad, i replaced the cylinder and piston, replaced the fuel filter, removed the carb and checked for debris, new spark plug, new air filter, changed fuel to a 32:1 just to see, all to no avail. I dont know how to test the ignition module, and I dont know if there is a way to test the cranck shaft seals. If any one can give me advise from here it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Brian in Spokane Wa.
ANSWER : I didn’t want to close the thread in case someone else had some ideas. We can still discuss this problem. Enter any clarification or additional information below the advertisements. HTH
Lou
Hoped Dolf would chime in.

Read Full Q/A … : Garden

Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

Read Full Q/A … : Garden

I’m having problems with my 223L when I cen get it started I have to run it with full choke once you open the choke it shuts down any help Please
ANSWER : Sounds like its getting fuel starved, look at fuel system and carb settings, may need a carb service.

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What information can you tell me about a Husqvarna chainsaw model 61 with serial number 6136460. Does it indicate the year?
ANSWER : Most of the CDI modules have been superseded to part no# 544018401check with your local dealer to verify.

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Husqvarna 150bt – runs great (WOT) from a cold start for about 15 minutes, then almost just dies. If I immediately release the throtle when I sense it is about to lose power it may return to idle, but won’t power back up to full speed. I have removed and completely cleaned the carb and the little screen inside of it and replaced the spark plug. The Husqvarna dealer said it needed a heliarc – but that hasn’t helped at all. I have always used the commercial canned 50:1 92 octane gas. The blower is 3 years old. It is as if something goes wrong with it as it gets hot. I cannot find the fuel filter. My next thought is to see if the screen on the exhaust needs cleaning. Any help appreciated. thanks
ANSWER : Yes, the exhaust screen check is a must any time performance is low.
Your problem sounds like fuel starvation, ie. the fuel hose in the tank is broken or cracked. The weighted filter is on the end of the hose and has deteriated. You may have to replace the hose. Make sure to use the OEM hose as it is a special ethonal resistant material.
Additionally, if you can turn L and the H screw on the carb out (counterclockwise) about 1/8 you may find performance to be improved. Initially, most manufactures have leaned the mixtures of the screws to meet EPA specs., but performance suffers.

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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Can start with the choke but it dies as soon as i open it up have repaced; spark plug, fuel line, fuel filter and cleaned air cleaner any ideas??
ANSWER : How old is the fuel?check float in carbi is seated correctly check oil reservoir as well and the airsrew is adjusted to allow the right amount of air. if this is open too far it chokes the enjine and it will stall.,

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