t changed the piston and rings this gave it quite a bit of compression but still didn’t run very well, changed plug and filters and apparently the spark was week under load and the carb needed attending to so i fitted an electronic ignition chip the spark is now really good and i put a full tillotson carb kit on using the husqvarna manual. now once all this was done it started for about a second first pull and stopped, everytime after that when it was pulled it seemed like it was flooding lots of fuel through the exhaust and a sucking or blowing noise at carb, this is with both needles set at 2 turns out, thanks, ****
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Hi, i remeber the 65 well, it had points ignition, i guess you have fitted an after market electronic pick up ( Mighty atom or such ),i believe there are different versions of these, some for external coil, and some for internal coil, are you sure the timing is now correct? to service the carb properly you really need to do a pressure test, this will tell you if the needle is leaking, or if any of the diaphrams and gaskets are leaking, if the saw is full of fuel after only a few pulls i am guessing the rubber tipped needle is leaking, or you have the metering lever too high, it is also very important to place the gasket on the carb first and the diaphram last, the gasket acts as a spacer, the metering lever should be level with the base of the carb.

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If you do notice the rope slowly extending, then the chainsaw compression is most likely low and needs checking more precisely. The most common places for an air leak to occur are on the crankshafts seals. Damage to the piston or the piston rings may also be the cause of the problem.
However, if you have an older saw, here`s how to quickly tune it yourself. Start by locating the three adjustment screws. They are typically labeled L (low speed jet), H (high speed jet), and I (idler jet).
The fuel line may be clogged from stale fuel deposits, more reasons to cause your chainsaw to cut out when applying throttle. If a fuel line is cracked, it will leak gasoline and draw air from outside into the fuel line. If the line is leaking fuel, it needs to be replaced.
It may be due to the fact that the chain cuts at an angle, is badly sharpened, incorrectly tensioned, or not sufficiently lubricated. Uneven wear of the guide bar in turn causes the chain to rotate at an angle rather than aligned with the bar, creating a vicious circle of wear.
Most damage to chainsaw cylinders and pistons is directly related to engine overheating due to either excessive heat generation and/or failure to remove heat produced during operation. Lean Seizure — This common failure mode occurs when the oxygen-to-fuel mix ratio is too lean and leads to overheating.
What is a good compression for a chainsaw? For most average-sized chainsaws a good compression reading should be around 110 PSI; for larger chainsaws, 160 PSI is better.
If your chainsaw still starts and then stops working, check the air filter. Clean or replace the air filter if it is dirty or damaged. Another reason that your chainsaw starts and then stops working could be that the spark arrestor is dirty or clogged. If this is the case, clean it with a wire brush.
If the filter becomes clogged, not enough fuel will reach the engine for it to run properly. Because your chainsaw will idle, but dies when it is revved up to full power, it means that the filter is only partially clogged; it will allow enough fuel to the engine to run on idle, but not enough to sustain full throttle.
If your chainsaw shuts down when turned sideways, it is usually because the fuel filter is held away from the fuel, as the position of the chainsaw has changed. The fuel filter must be able to stay in the fuel as the position of the chainsaw is changed.
This method involves looking at the base of the spark plug insulator (white part of the plug) for a slight coloring on the insulator just above where the insulator comes through the steel case. If the mixture is too lean, it will leave no color, while a rich mixture will cause the fuel ring to become more prominent.
If the carburetor is new or has been rebuilt, you should set it to “factory” adjustment. You can do so by adjusting the idle mixture screws to 1.5-2 turns out, and the idle speed screw to 1-1.5 turns in. Warm the Engine Up. The engine`s running temperature directly correlates with proper air and fuel mixtures.
If you discover you do have low compression, the only solution is to replace the leaking part whether it`s the piston, piston ring, camshaft, head gasket or valves.

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I have a husqvarna 65 chainsaw with a problem, it ran fine then it got a lack of compression pot was in good shape no heavy scoring, so i just changed the piston and rings this gave it quite a bit of compression but still didn’t run very well, changed plug and filters and apparently the spark was week under load and the carb needed attending to so i fitted an electronic ignition chip the spark is now really good and i put a full tillotson carb kit on using the husqvarna manual. now once all this was done it started for about a second first pull and stopped, everytime after that when it was pulled it seemed like it was flooding lots of fuel through the exhaust and a sucking or blowing noise at carb, this is with both needles set at 2 turns out, thanks, ****
ANSWER : Hi, i remeber the 65 well, it had points ignition, i guess you have fitted an after market electronic pick up ( Mighty atom or such ),i believe there are different versions of these, some for external coil, and some for internal coil, are you sure the timing is now correct? to service the carb properly you really need to do a pressure test, this will tell you if the needle is leaking, or if any of the diaphrams and gaskets are leaking, if the saw is full of fuel after only a few pulls i am guessing the rubber tipped needle is leaking, or you have the metering lever too high, it is also very important to place the gasket on the carb first and the diaphram last, the gasket acts as a spacer, the metering lever should be level with the base of the carb.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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My Husqvarna 323L trimmer will no longer start after I added fuel and cranked it several times with the switch set to off. When I realized then corrected the switch, it still would not start. Before now, it always started on the first or second pull. I have checked for compression, spark and fuel. All seems fine, it just won’t start. The fuel is fresh and is the same fuel I used with no problem in my blower. Any ideas? Thanks!
ANSWER : Let it sit 2 hrs. then try to start it as usual.

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Getting gas getting spark. was working fine I shut it off to load wood. When I tried to start it back up it wouldn’t. Cleaned spark plug and air filter started but as soon as I gave it gas it shuts off
ANSWER : Did you add fuel before you tried to restart? is it the correct/same fuel you were using before?

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Husqvarna chainsaw stops when using it
ANSWER : Check for spark by removing the spark plug and grounding it to the
metal part of the cylinder. It should spark a bluish, yellow strong spark when you pull the starter rope. Make sure the SPARK PLUG is good . Get a known good spark plug. By using a plug that you know is GOOD, it will eliminate any chance that you have a bad plug and that the ignition module is good too. If the known good plug is not sparking then you may have a bad ignition coil. For replacement of that one you will have to remove the entire left coil cover and the ignition coil is by the flywheel or under it.

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If your crank seals are bad will this cause your saw to rev up ,,it sounds as if it is sucking air some place,,the carb is good,manifold is good,,fuel line is good ,,manifold clamp is good and the short hose underneath ,,,this is a 350 husqvarna ,, starts and you have to pull the choke 1/2 out for it to keep running ,,push the choke in and it revs right up to 10,000 rpm or so ,,,wondering if i bought sealed bearings if would need crank seals to ? i have torn this saw apart 3 times and put it back together with the same results HEEEEEELLLPPP
thanks andrew
ANSWER : Bad gasket under carb….

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