stop sounding, with the battery indicator light on. Two things happened when I bought it, though. 1) It was a newer style battery that I replace for an old one. The old one had a hole in the battery for the sensor, and the new one using the yellow cap for the sensor. 2) Since I had no yellow cap, I brought the battery back to Home Depot to exchange, but was given a yellow cap. However, the foil covering the holes was removed for a few hours as the battery was transported back and forth to The Home Depot. Any ideas? This battery is driving me crazy. Thanks for your help
Basement Watchdog Sump Pump
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Use the Basement Watchdog control unit for charging a LEAD-ACID battery only. DO NOT use the control unit for charging dry-cell batteries that are most commonly used with home appliances.
To permanently disable the water fluid low alarm, attached the fluid sensor rod to the positive terminal of the battery. This can be done by tightening down the wing nut on top of the positive terminal and the fluid sensor.
Should any malfunction or emergency occur that involves the sump pump, the battery, or the AC power, the Basement Watchdog system will sound an alarm. A light on the display panel of the control unit will indicate the cause of the alarm and the corrective action.
The most common reasons for your alarm to be going off are: Loose Wire Connections. Incorrect Water Levels in Battery Cells. Dying or Dead Battery.
The most common cause of a sump pump system running continuously is when the sump pump float switch is stuck on the “on” position in your sump pit. This will cause it to run even when all water has been removed, which will burn out the pump prematurely.
During the testing process, keep an eye on the battery indicator light. If it remains green, it is a good indication that your battery is strong. Fortunately, battery backup sump pumps have alarms that alert homeowners when the battery is nearing the end of its life.
-Will run the Basement Watchdog Backup sump pump Special BWSP & BWD12-120C A/C-D/C Sump Pump Systems for 7.5 hours continuously. It is a standby battery, and it will last longer and perform better than automotive or deep cycle batteries when used with a battery backup sump pump system.
As a general rule of thumb, during a power outage most new fully-charged batteries will last roughly 5-7 hours of continuous pumping and roughly 1-3 days of non-continuous pumping depending on the frequency. The longer the pump runs, the less power it has.
All current Basement Watchdog Battery Backup and Combination systems are designed to accommodate the maintenance-free AGM battery.
What Causes a Sump Pump to Short Cycle? In most cases, short cycling is a symptom of a fault in your pump`s float switch—a device which floats on the surface of the water in your sump basin and then turns your pump on when the water reaches a particular level.
Almost all the installed base alarm systems are designed to charge Lead Acid type batteries at a fairly low charge rate.
Because most of the security alarm uses a power supply to get the electricity, the alarm battery recharge by itself. The battery is used to prevent the alarm system goes off when there is a power outage. Once the power has turned on, the battery will begin to charge by itself for future usage.
Recharging Your Battery
Some alarm systems operate using a 12 volt 4.8 AH Rechargeable Sealed Lead-Acid Battery. These run on a trickle charging system. Trickle charging allows a battery to self-charge at a low rate in order to remain fully charged.
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I have a Basement Watchdog sump pump system. I just replaced the battery three weeks ago, all acid levels even and full, but the alarm will not stop sounding, with the battery indicator light on. Two things happened when I bought it, though. 1) It was a newer style battery that I replace for an old one. The old one had a hole in the battery for the sensor, and the new one using the yellow cap for the sensor. 2) Since I had no yellow cap, I brought the battery back to Home Depot to exchange, but was given a yellow cap. However, the foil covering the holes was removed for a few hours as the battery was transported back and forth to The Home Depot. Any ideas? This battery is driving me crazy. Thanks for your help
The alarm continues to sound. The red light for battery is on. I did add water and it went off for a very short time m, but then continued. I added more water, definitely full, and it continues to sound. Any ideas?
(Batteries may be substituted by
using a deep cycle marine battery with the same specifications as described above, but the
battery fluid sensor option will not function. Simply connect the battery fluid sensor to
the positive terminal of the battery to disarm battery fluid sensor alarm).
We have a Flotec 3/4 HP submersible pump, it was already here when we moved in, we have lived here for 3 yrs, so we dont know how old it is. After living here for 2 yrs, it started to get very noisy, like a groaning noise. We replaced it w/ a l/2 HP Wayne(our mistake) We got water in the basement b/c the wayne pump quit running. We put the Flotec back on. Trying to find a replacement, but stores are all out. Question is, do you think we can rely on the Flotec that is making the strange noises? Thanks, Chris
Take strainer off to see if fravel stucj. if not, motor bearing may be shot. I would replace. I like wayne.
Backup never came on – ESP Wayne Battery Back-Up Sump Pump System
Check that the battery is fully charged, keep a trickle charger on it so you don’t have to worry. More importantly, test the backup pump float to make sure it doesn’t bind on the other things (primary float, piping) in the sump crock. With the primary pump turned off, fill the crock and see if the float rises freely.
Couple of guys tried to help me on this, perhaps you guys could come back. I forgot to mention there is a pressure tank bladder type on the discharge side. Could the air in this tank be messing with the prime. I checked the intake. It has water in it after bleeding air from the discharge system where before it was dry before purging air. I think there is air in the system and wonder if it is coming from the pressure tank?. i open up one of the discharge valves and a lot of air comes out. Should I put a valve on the pressure tank to take it off line until I get water from the well?
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
My friend, please boil your question down. Your title has to do with riding mowers but the leaking, bladder, impeller, air bubbles, pressure tank, check valve comments seem to be migrating toward a pump of some kind – well? spa? pool? irrigation?
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
Battery has liquid on top – RTO Basement Watchdog Sump Pump
The battery is charging with trickle charger. The liquid could be just water from condensation from the recharging process. If the charging is too vigorous, then it can also be sulfuric acid, so rubber gloves are in order. Clean up liquid with gloves on and paper towels. Once dry carefully remove caps and check water level. refill battery with distilled water to top of cell. Check water level at least twice a year. Wear safety glasses too.
STOP PUMPING WATER IT ALSO SOUNDS LIKE IT IS NOT RUNNING AT FULL POWER. next day the pump is not working at all. alos this pump is less than 6 months old. it is the flo tech 1 1/2 hp submurable pump. is there a warrenty that i can get it replaced with? pump was purchased at Jerry’s Hardware in springfield, Or.
I have a baby due in two weeks and still have no water. i need this pump replaced. we spent the last of our savings having this well put in. Please help me. Please contact me either be phone, 541-977-6133 or e-mail [email protected]
John and Beverly Walters
I don’t know about the warranty if it’s six months old, but you might remind Jerry at the hardware store that we’re discussing his customer service on the internet..Submersible pumps are pretty simple, but you gotta pull the darn things out of the well every time you need to work on them and they’re kinds specialized- if you do it yourself, count on spending a little money and learning quite a lot. And being dirty and surly at the end of the day, and no water to wash in..It might be worth considering a different brand of pump, especially if Jerry won’t warranty this one. I see these Flotec pumps at the farm store and all, and I believe they’re just more Chinese junk. Sticking with a Meyer, Goulds, Flint & Walling might cost a few bucks more (and it might not too) but they’ll last longer and the dealer is more likely to care about your problems down the road.Let us know if you’re going to pull this pump out yourself, I know a bit about it and there’s probably quite a few others here who do too, I’m sure you can do it without too much trouble. Best of luck with it.lp
Little Giant Sump Pump Backup System Alarm Keeps Screeching
Is there water? sensor maybe bad, or pump failing to cycle