age. Two years later it’s yellowed in spots and it has lost all luster. I would like to re-varnish it but the idea of taking a sander to it and the level of fine dust that will go absolutely everywhere just makes me cringe. Is there a way to re-varnish the top without going through all that? Thanks!
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I guess you have already ruled out removing it to refinish it. I have to wonder what kind of varnish was used that failed so fast. Teak is a particularly oily wood. Sounds like there is some combination of the teak, the stain and the varnish that were incompatible. Anyway, you might try the method that some piano refinishers use. Using a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol you may be able to rub off the old finish without sanding at all. This requires LOTS of ventilation, and lots of rags, but you can do it over a period of days. You will first have to test if the existing finish can be dissolved with this solution by checking in an inconspicuous area. It won’t be instantaneous, but if the corner of a rag, wet with the solution, then rub on a spot. If you see color being picked up on your rag, you should be in luck. Give it a couple of days to dry thoroughly before applying a new finish.
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To give better protection to teak bathroom furniture, the first step is to apply a primer such as Anti-Tanins Primer PAT400 before applying a wood varnish. The purpose of the primer is to prepare the wood and to strengthen the adhesion of a subsequent finish such as wood varnish.
Oil stain is traditionally considered the best option for helping to keep the teak wood weather resistant as well as allowing it to last better outdoors. Simply brush the oil stain across the wood, and gradually wipe off any excess to prevent it from smudging or bubbling up on the furniture.
The best way to clean your teak furniture is to scrub it down with a solution of soapy water and a splash of either white vinegar or bleach. You can then hose it down (at a normal water pressure) to remove the soapy solution and any build-up of dirt, grime, bird-droppings and so on.
Mix lemon juice OR vinegar with salt until it forms into a thick paste. Rub your paste over the watermark for about a minute. Use a damp rag to wipe away any leftover residue. Polish the surface with some teak oil to restore the desired finish.
Teak wood is super low maintenance, but you should do all you can to keep it in pristine condition. Be sure to quickly blot up any spills or water pools from rainfall so it doesn`t damage or stain the wood. Avoid using harsh cleaning chemicals or tools like steel wool or power washers near the wood.
Using a teak cleaner or a homemade solution of vinegar and warm water (1 cup vinegar to 4L of water), evenly wash down the surface with a soft cloth. Let the vinegar solution soak into the teak for about 15 minutes before cleaning it with a sponge in line with the timber grain.
If you want to preserve the honey/brown color of your teak outdoor furniture, a sealer is recommended. Teak sealers are usually solvent-based and of water-like viscosity, containing protection against mold, ultraviolet light and moisture. A variety of shades are available if you want a color other than the natural one.
Teak wood is one of the few kinds of wood that are not susceptible to water and moisture, which is why it`s so popularly used as an ideal material for making shower furniture. It has a protective and natural oil that lubricates the wood, making it resistant to any humidity around the area.
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Hi, I have a teak cabinet in the bathroom that is finished with a dark stain and, atop that, a varnish to keep bathroom moisture from doing damage. Two years later it’s yellowed in spots and it has lost all luster. I would like to re-varnish it but the idea of taking a sander to it and the level of fine dust that will go absolutely everywhere just makes me cringe. Is there a way to re-varnish the top without going through all that? Thanks!
ANSWER : I guess you have already ruled out removing it to refinish it. I have to wonder what kind of varnish was used that failed so fast. Teak is a particularly oily wood. Sounds like there is some combination of the teak, the stain and the varnish that were incompatible. Anyway, you might try the method that some piano refinishers use. Using a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol you may be able to rub off the old finish without sanding at all. This requires LOTS of ventilation, and lots of rags, but you can do it over a period of days. You will first have to test if the existing finish can be dissolved with this solution by checking in an inconspicuous area. It won’t be instantaneous, but if the corner of a rag, wet with the solution, then rub on a spot. If you see color being picked up on your rag, you should be in luck. Give it a couple of days to dry thoroughly before applying a new finish.
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Have the RLT30HT strimmer. Hard to start and will not run unless left in half choke position and revs full on. Will not idle. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Something is causing a lean mixture (less fuel) at the carb. Usually a furl flow problem – do the easy things first – check fuel tank foe any leaks (cracks in plastic) fuel lines for being dark yellow or brown colored – they will begin splitting apart at this point. Then go after the fuel primer bulb – if darkened then replace it – about $4 at hardware stores. Then take a look at the muffler – there will be a spark arresting screen at its outlet – remove the exhaust snout and lose the screen – doesn’t run with that screen plugged up!! Now start it back up and you might just be surprised! If it still does not run well unless you partially choke it, turn the fuel mixture screw a quarter turn outward to admit more fuel into the carburetor. Do this until the RPM increases – careful not to go too rich – can foul out the plug! Find the sweet spot. Hope this helps you.
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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :
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Planted salad greens 2 weeks ago, new leaves very pale, with dark spots, some have brown edges
ANSWER : Not enough sun and too much water does this
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The sander works fine but it has stopped collecting dust in the dust bag.
I presumed it was blocked so attached a hoover to the opening where the dust bag goes to try to **** out the blockage – no luck – I even ran the sander with the hoozer attached and the hoover still didn’t collect any of the dust, instead made a noise like it was blocked.
So the sander may well still be blocked but if that is the case the blockage isn’t shifting easily.
I like this sander nd it has done me well over the years but I can’t use it as it is as the clean-up after is more hassel than its worth. Can you help?
ANSWER : Usually when this happens, it is the Fan Blade “Slipping” on the shaft, or the actual extraction motor actually not turning at a ll. You need to strip the unit down and check, the Motor and the Gear that drives the extractor, these often slip, or crack out at the join. Sometimes a piece of stuff gets lodged into the gear or shaft, or motor and “Binds” it up tight as a drum, this also stops it working. As I said strip it down,clean it out, and I am sure you will return it to many more years of service. I always draw a diagram, of how I take anything apart, so one can put it back together again. .Also you did not indicate the exact model, please use Google and have a search for a service, repair or even a user manual, it will help you quite a bit so I would advise you to try and obtain one,
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I disassembled my Ryobi BTS21 table saw to fix a problem. Trying to put it back together. But weeks past while waiting for a tiny part that just came in, and my memory of how it goes together is unclear.
I’ve studied all the diagrams I can find, which are all copies of this: http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/123/BTS21_087_r.pdf
But none of them show how the blade/motor/plate subassembly (for lower and raising the blade) actually connects to the body of the saw. Does anyone have a picture showing the bottom side of such a saw? (Meaning shot from underneath it or from above a saw turned over and sitting on its top side.) I think I could get it together if I could see that.
Also, I have two metal “thingys” that don’t seem to correspond to any parts on the parts list. They are small rectangular plates with two holes in them, about 1/2 in x 1 in x 1/8 in thick. (13 mm x 28 mm x 4 mm thick.) The holes are 15/64 in (6 mm) in diameter; the center-to-center distance between them is 21/32 in (16 mm).
If someone could tell me what key number on the diagram corresponds to these it would really be helpful. I see that there are THREE pairs of holes on the bottom side of the saw table with the holes the same diameter and separation as the plate. I have only TWO of these. Did I lose one, or do only two of the pairs-of-holes take these plates?
My new year?s resolution: Never again will I disassemble anything even slightly complicated without taking pictures of it as I take it apart.
ANSWER : Have you seen the repair sheet on link below.
http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/123/BTS21_087_r.pdf
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Belt for self popelled mower keeps breaking? Cannot keep a new belt on pulley
ANSWER : Check that the pulley isn’t seizing up and causing the belt to snap, also be sure you loosen up the self propelled mechanismn by spraying down with WD 40, too much belt tension can cause this, but it rather seems like the belt pulley seizes and the engines drive pulley keeps turning causing the belt to overheat and break or stretch and come flying off.
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Bearings need replacing on variable speed pulley.got them out,but can’t seem to find the center retainer? bushing.it’s 2 ”9/16 in length and 1/2” Outside D.the mower is a troy built Ltx1842.Model#13AP609G063.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Just bought this mower ran great when i picked it up…lol.When i got it home i had to push it about 50 yards to my shed.Needs battery,put on charge.Get up next day and cut around 4 rows.Then it just stopped.lol.Looked belts over and the lower? drive belt looked like it had seen better days.They are a boger to change your first time.Two days later i get the belt and in the process of the belt change i notice the VSPully is freezing up.So i ignore it,maybe it will go away.lol.Not so much,hour later and same thing mower cutting great then it just stops moving.No foward or reverse,but it still running and cutting great.Just need to hook something like my truck or my kids power wheel to the front to pull me around the rest of the yard.?New pulley is around 150$$.The mower is a fighter 4 sure.No way it’s making me buy that to.The belts where 60bucks.That’s not counting what i paid for the mower.After having it for 4 days it’s got me worried if it’s worth keeping if this keeps it going long enough to finish the yard.I may just..pass it on to some one else..lol
ANSWER : I looked at the IPL on precisionope.com. It does not look like Troybilt breaks down the pulley into separate components. You may have to find an older hardware store, mom and pop type, to find this retainer, or a michine shop to make you one.
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