is spark, but no fuel there. Any ideas?
Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
It sounds like the needle valve for the float is sticking.
The first thing I would do is bang on the carb with a rubber hammer a few times. Don’t use anything heavier or you could damage the carb.
Then, check the float valve in the carb bowl. You will have to take the bottom of the carb off to do this. Remove the float bowl, then carefully remove the float. The needle valve is attached by a small wire catch to the top of the float. Clean that valve and use a Q-Tip with carb cleaner to clean the seat in the carb body.
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The MF-65 tractors were offered in gasoline, diesel and LP-gas. This model carried a Continental 4-cyl.
The most common cause for slow or hard cranking is a poor ground circuit or bad electrical connection. With your John Deere, I would tend to think that it is weak ground either at the cable or where tractor ground/starter mounts. A tractor, in the same manner as a car, uses a DC electrical system.
Tractors will start in gear if normal starting circuitry is bypassed. Start the engine from the operator`s seat with the transmission in park. Do not start the engine by shorting across starter terminals. Never start the engine while standing on the ground.
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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
2 cycle mantis tiller leaks gas thru the carb. – will not start?
If it leaks gas,it can **** air.you have to find out whats leaking and stop it.
I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
I need the spark plug gap for an Ariens ST624E. the spark plug = 21533500
The recommended setting is .030″
<!– from fixya rte –>Spark plug gap setting poulan pro 033. – Poulan Pro Prod/Poulan Weedeater Poulan Pro PP5020AV 20" Gas Chain Saw
What should the spark plug gap be on a weedeater trimmer 25cc
What kind of spark plug do i use in a pb-251c . i have a champion plug in it now but will not start check fuel filter seem to be ok im getting a spark at the plug and also added fresh fuel what can it be
Ryobi weedeater runs good but when shut down fuel drips out carb. ??
You will probably have to remove the carburetor so you can evenly tighten the screws on the ends. If it still leaks, then you will need to get a rebuild kit for it.