ed to crank it back up it flooded. I waited a while and it started up but ran poorly. I parked it about a week ago and when I went out to crank it today it turned over but blew the little hose off behind the carb and shot gas everywhere, I put the hose back on and tried again. The same thing happened so I pulled the air filter and it was soaked with gas. I looked in the carb and its full of gas. I have no Idea what to check first. Its almost like the fuel is running to the carb constantly with way to much pressure. Do you have any idea of some things to check?
20 hp 42 in. Deck Yard Tractor
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Remove fuel bowl and check needle valve and float assembly
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The DYT 4000 features a hydrostatic transmission with a pedal shifter. The motor is a 24 horsepower Briggs & Stratton.
A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the lawn mower for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall.
The 2004 Craftsman DYT 4000 was the Bob Vila Signature Series, branded with the signature of the home improvement celebrity.
Get a yard you can be proud of with reliable CRAFTSMAN® push lawn mowers featuring powerful BRIGGS & STRATTON® engines.
Tractor may be starving for fuel
The fuel tank can develop a vacuum. This could cause fuel to stop running to the engine – causing it to stall. If this is the case, give it an hour or two, and the tank pressure will reset and equalize. Then the tractor will run again.
Being Overworked. One of the most common reasons that a lawn mower might stall while it is cutting grass is that it is being overworked. This is a mechanism that is intentionally incorporated into the mower to prevent the motor from being blown.
CRAFTSMAN TOOLS? Select CRAFTSMAN power tools, hand tools, lawn and garden equipment, and storage are being made with pride in the USA with global materials–and it`s here to stay.
All Craftsman sockets and wrenches are proudly made in the USA. In 2010, I criticized Sears for turning away from this ideal.
Rotary walk-behind lawn mowers are generally powered with gasoline and have engines that are two horsepower to seven horsepower. Riding lawn mowers, on the other hand, have 13 horsepower to 30 horsepower engines because they`re so much bigger and heavier.
If you need a heavy-duty mower that can work through tall grass and uneven lawns, you`ll need around 6.0 HP. A yard of 1 to 2 acres should be able to produce 14 to 16 HP. A small engine size of between 18 and 24 HP is required for yards of 3 to 5 acres.
You should look for a mower with 14-16 HP and a wide deck – 38 inches – that will allow you to get your lawn work done quickly. The best machines to use are a zero-turn mower or a garden tractor for yards larger than three acres.
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Hello, I have a craftsman dyt 4000 with the Briggs 18.5hp and auto transmission. I turned it off after running for about an hour and when I tried to crank it back up it flooded. I waited a while and it started up but ran poorly. I parked it about a week ago and when I went out to crank it today it turned over but blew the little hose off behind the carb and shot gas everywhere, I put the hose back on and tried again. The same thing happened so I pulled the air filter and it was soaked with gas. I looked in the carb and its full of gas. I have no Idea what to check first. Its almost like the fuel is running to the carb constantly with way to much pressure. Do you have any idea of some things to check?
Remove fuel bowl and check needle valve and float assembly
I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
I have a craftsman 25 cc string trimmer with fuel problems. After winter, ran tank of good fuel through it and it worked fine. Added fuel (unknowingly with water in it) and it ran on a slow idle and finally died. Drained fuel, took carb apart and cleaned, blowed out carb and reassembled. Still only ran on a slow idle – no throttle response. Took cover off with air cleaner and it ran fine. Seems to blow too much fuel out where filter sits. Put filter back on and runs on slow idle. Almost seems it is flooding, but have not adjusted anything, just cleaned. What do I need to do next?
You shouldn’t notice a difference if you remove the air filter. So I would replace it. Also if you are using compressed air to clean or blow-out the carb. Be careful, its not recommended and could make it worse.
Karcher 2400R I have not used my pressure washer for 6 months. It was left full of gas in the garage. I tried to start it but it would not fire up so I change the gas, oil, and spark plug, took apart the carburator and cleaned it out with carb cleaner. I went ahead and put everything together, pull the cord and wanted to start. While trying to start it after I sprayed starting fluid in the air cleaner I noticed that gas was coming back from the crankcase breather hose into the air filter choking or flooding the carb. When I removed the crankcase hose it started right up and stay running unitl I tried to connect the hose again. While it ran there was gas spitting out of this hose. Can someone help me out to figure what is wrong?
You have a poor signal to the spark plug usually caused by a rusty fly wheel found underneath the pullcord casing. clean it with releasing ajent such as wd 40. common when not in use for a while.
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
How do you remove an engine from a Craftsman dyt 4000 lawn tractor?
Remove the deck and drive belt, then the pully and the four mounting bolts. unplugg all the wires and lift the motor out.
rural king has briggs and straton motors at their stores for a cheaper price than on line. I got a 18.5 hp for $420.
Soap feed The soap feed hose on my Karcher 2650 does not suck up the soap into the washer. I pulled off the connector piece that the hose is connected to. I can blow through the hose. There is a little metal finger thing that you can tell pushes up into place when the water pressure is high. It seems like it is supposed to drop down and allow some soap through when the water is running. I found a loose(attached to nothing) gasket, looks like a little donut. It was just free floating in there. I’m thinking it may go over the finger mechanism. I just put it back on top of the finger, like a halo and put the screw in piece back in. Anyway, if you know, let me know how all that goes together.
I fixed mine works good too, watch my video step by step i put it on youtubehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFXSLOBL0Mg