ut forgot where the light gauge spring hooks on. After the cleanup, it continued to do the same thing – run after pressing the priming bulb, but quickly dying thereafter. Any advice?
22″ Yard Machine Push Mower

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Your lawn mower turning over but not starting due to several reasons, such as a faulty or disconnected plug, a disconnected spark plug wire, a clogged air filter, or a contaminated fuel tank. A faulty carburetor, a dirty cutting deck, or a dysfunctional flywheel brake can also cause this.
A full gas tank and oil reservoir are the essential first steps when checking why the lawn mower won`t stay running, but the problem could also be a dirty filter, clogged carburetor, improper fuel mixture, or a dirty spark plug.
The easiest way to tell a 2-cycle engine from a 4-cycle engine is the number of fuel tank and/or oil sump fill ports. A 2-cycle engine has one fill port with a cap that has fuel pump and oil can icon. The cap will usually state the oil to fuel mix ratio.
There are several reasons a Craftsman lawnmower may turn over but not start, with the most common ones including the following: Lack of fuel. Dirty air filters. Electrical issues in the ignition system or the starter motor.
A dirty carburetor is the most common cause of a lawn mower that starts and then dies. Other possible causes include: Stale/Dirty Gas. Faulty Choke.
There may be old or bad fuel in the carburetor float bowl. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and prevent the engine from starting. If the carburetor is clogged, try cleaning it with carburetor cleaner.

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Have a 15 yr old 22″ MTD that I can start with a drill, but it will only run for a little while. I took off the carb and cleaned it up some, but forgot where the light gauge spring hooks on. After the cleanup, it continued to do the same thing – run after pressing the priming bulb, but quickly dying thereafter. Any advice?
ANSWER :

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

Read Full Q/A … : 22″ Yard Machine Push Mower

Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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MTD Yardman push mower runs fine for awhile then cuts off.
ANSWER : Try buying a new plug first but if it continues then I would say that there is debris in the carb.

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Starts runs then dies. will start again in 20 min,
ANSWER : I had the same problem….Look at the gas cap…Small hole in the cap was plugged. After replacing plug, adding stabilizer, changing filter a mechanic told me about the cap. Two seconds later and a toothpick the problem was solved.

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158 series Mower starts but stops running .Do filters need changing ?
ANSWER : It probably wouldnt hurt to replace filters and clean carb that should fix the problem

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My yard machine runs for a little while, then starts to stall and dogged down eventually dying I cleaned and cleaned the speark plugg and air filter help me?
ANSWER : Hi,
Sometimes water (condensation) can get in the gas. If your model has a bowl on the bottom of the carburator, loosen the bolt and ease the bowl down and take it off. You will spill gas out of the bowl but that’s ok. look at the spilled gas while you’re at it and see if you see beads of water… tell-tale sign of this as being the problem. I’d get a paper towel and dry the bowl out before reassembling. To make sure there’s no water in the gas tank, you could loosen the fuel line, drain the gas into a container (preferably glass so you can see if there’s water in the bottom of the container, afterwards). If there was water, you might swab the bottom inside of the tank out with a paper towel. Reassemble everything and put in some fresh gas. You might can re-use the old gas, just don’t pour the water back in… ha.
I hope this helps… Good luck!

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