How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
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some folks moving up from an older saw to a more modern saw are not so familiar with chain brakes and don’t understand them and how they work
Take the tool that came with your saw and loosen the two nuts (don’t take them off yet)that hold the sideplate on over the chain. Leave the saw setting on its bottom.
When the nuts are loose take the screwdriver end of your wrench (or a screwdriver) and loosen the chain quite a bit. Wearing the gloves, make sure when you pull it forward it moves very loose.
Now take the two sidecover nuts all the way off. You’ll see how the chain goes arpound the sproket. Push the bar back toward the sproket until it is loose enough to remove the chain.
The bar will come off too, and it is important to note the small nub that goes in the tensioning hole on the bar near the bottom of the saw, fairly close to the sproket. Keep the chain straight; I hang mine on nails driven into the wall in my shop. You can get them kinked up so that they seem they’ll never straighten out.
Take this time to clean all behind the sidecover itself, and the entire enclosed area. There will be sawdust, twigs, etc. I blow mine off with compressed air, but protect your eyes. Take something, toothpick, Qtip, or the like and clean the groove all the way around the bar, including the oil holes near the rear.
You should now be ready to insert the new chain, putting the bar with the slot lined up with the sidecover bolts, and gently get the chain on the sproket. This may take a couple tries before you get it right. When it is on (you’ll see you have to hold the bar up or it will tip too much) hold the bar in place with the tightener in the hole, and slip the side cover back on. Tighten the nuts just enough to hold the bar in place, then tighten the chain tension screw, while holding the bar. Tighten the side nuts more, until the bar is held in place.
When it is just tight enough to hold the bar but not prevent the bar from moving forward when you tighten it, tighten until you can still move the chain, but there is no visible slack in the chain. You should be able to grab the chain at the bottom and with moderate force pull it away from the bar about a half inch.
I like to pour a little oil on a new chain so it has plenty of lube. The chain will stretch because it is new. Run the saw at about 1/3 throttle for a minute, holding the end close to something to make sure the chain is throwing off a fine thread of oil. Then run it at 1/2 speed about another minute. Rev it a few times, make a practice cut or two, and it should by now need another slight tightening.