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How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
Have you tried with the choke all the way open? Do you have an automatic cruise? Is the right (correct) pedal being pushed in? These will affect if it starts or not. Also if your drive belt or one of the other belts not being tight enough will affect if it starts or just turns over. Not too many things can stope it from starting with new/good battery AND if its getting gas. Try cleaning your gas line and obviously making sure there is no obstruction around or near your blade, if it does start with blade engaged that is :))
If it doesn’t start with blade engaged, well make sure it’s in neutral. Mine won’t start in reverse but will in forward or neutral.
Hope it helps.
Anthony
First off check the oil level and make sure it is serviced to full.
If your having a lack of fuel (runing lean) you will need to check fuel flow at the carb fuel mainfold. It should fill a spray paint can lid in less than 10 seconds but teting flow rated of the main fuel line. If you have poor flow here… you need to check the fuel filter and the fuel tank outlet port for obstructions.
Good Fuel flow still shutting off…. remove the carb float bow and clean the debris from the bow’ and the treaded area where the fuel solenoid mounts Additionally you will have to again remove the main fuel line and spray carb cleaner in the float needle area to flush out any debris through the fuel hose connection.
For the second response I need to know which engine is installed on your mower by MODEL number if you can locate it. (there are 3 engines) At least try to find the engine model number. If you can not locate it Brand and HP of the engine (I assume 22 hp) Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
Some systems use both a foot valve and an in-line check valve to prevent the symptom you currently have.
Foot valve example:
http://www.docolfaucets.com/ingles/produtos_detalhe/docolvalves-24/check-valve-and-retention-valve-93/foot-valve-for-well-w-check-valve-line-bsp-thread-348/foot-valve-for-well-w-check-valve-1928
More examples:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/wellpart.html
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/well-footvalve.jpg
If this valve has failed… there is nothing to prevent the contents of the pressure tank from dumping back into the shallow well.
I doubt you have a shut off on the pump suction side but if you do once the pump shuts off close this valve. I would bet your pressure tank holds the pressure. If you do not have a shut off valve… just feel for a rush of water in the suction pipe AFTER the pump reaches pressure and shuts off. If your feeling water flow with the pump off and the tank at pressure / loosing pressure the foot valve is bad.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
