25cc 4-cycle Mini Tiller
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On the 2 cylinder, one the most common problems is the carborator. Take off and clean as much as possible with gasoline or wd-40. If you clean out the carb. with air be very careful.It is best to soak it and brush it instead.
How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
One of the most common problems, especially because rototillers often sit unused for months, is stale fuel or a clogged carburetor. If you know you have fresh fuel, you can check for carburetor blockage by spraying a small amount of carb cleaner into the intake and attempting to start the engine.
Soil Problems The problem with your tiller`s digging power may not be with the machine; it could be the soil. When soil is dry and compacted, tiller tines basically bounce off it without digging into it or turning it. Combat compaction by watering the area thoroughly one or two days before you till.
Tiller: Why won`t my tillers wheels or tines turn? A broken drive belt, bad transmission or problem with the clutch cable can prevent a tiller`s wheels and tines from turning. Check the drive belt and replace it if it`s worn or broken.
Why would the engine only run while the choke is on or with repeated manual priming? An engine that requires the choking ( partial or full ) after initial engine warm up is an indication that the engine fuel air mixture system is out of adjustment.
You should change your tiller oil at least every spring, but ideally after every 50 hours of operation. Between oil changes, check your oil level before each use to ensure there`s enough oil present. Small amounts of oil may burn off during use, so you may need to occasionally top it off.
Avoid tilling in wet soil as soil compaction can occur and lead to poor root penetration in the growing season. If it rains, it`s best to wait a few days to allow soil to become semi-dry.
Rear tine tillers are excellent machines for the kind of work that needs to be done when starting a large new garden plot: Breaking hard ground. Loosening hard or rocky soil. Digging large gardens or small farm plots.
Disadvantages of Power tiller tractors:
Power tiller Tractors are more expensive and less efficient than traditional tractors. They also have a shorter lifespan.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Using an undersized cord, a larger number cord gauge (AWG) than recommended in the chart, will cause a loss in power and overheating of the tiller.
Engine or motor size
For a medium-size garden, you probably need a mid-size tiller with a 5-horsepower engine. For gardens larger than 5,000 square feet, you`ll want a heavy-duty tiller with at least a 6-horsepower engine.
If the wheels on your tiller move but the tines don`t spin, you may need to replace tine shaft clevis pins or replace the transmission. The tiller`s transmission drives the wheels and the tine shaft, so you`ll likely need to replace the transmission when the wheels spin but the tine shaft doesn`t move.
You should change your tiller oil at least every spring, but ideally after every 50 hours of operation. Between oil changes, check your oil level before each use to ensure there`s enough oil present. Small amounts of oil may burn off during use, so you may need to occasionally top it off.
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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.
It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
I have a John Deere L118 Limited Edition (w/ 20 HP B&S engine), which I purchased about 8 years ago. It ran well with few problems up to late this summer. I believe the problem started when I accidentally filled the tank with some stale gasoline – the tractor turned over, but would not start. I drained the fuel tank and filled it with fresh gas, but it still would not start. When I use starter fluid, the tractor starts for 4-5 seconds, and then cuts off. I installed a new fuel filter. The connections in the fuel line seem tight, so while the problem might be the vacuum fuel pump itself, I do not think it is due to a leak in the line. I disconnected the fuel line at the carburetor — fuel flows through the line at start up. But when I put the fuel line directly into the air intake (with some starting fluid), the engine still cuts off in about 4 seconds. I am not sure if the pump simply is not drawing enough fuel into the carburetor. I understand that, if it is a problem with a safety cut-off, the engine would not start at all (even for 4 seconds). My thought was that the problem may be a gummed up carburetor, but that would not explain why the tractor does not start when I feed fuel directly into the carburetor. Any thoughts about other things I can try before bringing the tractor to a mechanic?
ANSWER : Just take the carb bowl off its easy one bolt on the bottom of it get the old gas out flush all old gas out of tank and line then it will run trust me i know
Lawn mower will start and run for 5 seconds and shut down
ANSWER : Will it stay running with your choke on? if so then clean your carb. if not then look for a blockage from tank to carb. ie fuel shut off, deteriorated fuel line. plugged filter etc
Does not run, will start with starting fluid – Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller
ANSWER : You should never use starting fluid on this model.
Add a couple of ounces of 100% acetone (available at Walmart) to some fresh fuel. Attempt to start for several pulls. Let sit for several minutes and repeat until it sounds like it wants to run.
Then watch this video and do it:
http://www.alamia.us/mantis_parts_s/148.htm
Engineer starts, and stop – Mtd 22" Yard Machine Push Mower
ANSWER : Clean fuel system
lines
tank
carburetor main jet, float bowl
check cable/linkage adjustments
Wont start no ignition put new plug in and fuel filter
ANSWER : Flush gas tank, fill with fresh gas and Stabil. Replace air filter. Remove bowl from carb clean bowl and holes in bowl screw.
Will only start and run in choked position, when throttle applied chokes out. If started with out choke and throttle position in low speed will start and run for 10 sec then like it runs out of gas.
ANSWER : I have your solution guaranteed, I fixed mine yesturday remove H L screw plastic caps and on high 11 threads exposed and on the low side 8 threads exposed. removing the plastic caps allows u further adjusting these wear out or move soo just take them things off and you will be rolling