el filter, clean gas tank, new fuel, new lines since I saw crud in carb bowl and tank. NOW it5 will run after started either fast or slow BUT dies if load put on engine ie moving /blades. also dies if throttle moved from slow to fast. I checked the gas shutoff and it seems fine.
Garden

Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
HiDefinitely sounds like a fuel starvation problem.Did you clean out the carb jets? A blocked (or partially blocked) main jet would do that.So would water (or other contaminant) in the carb bowlOtherwise it could be stiff blades due to an entanglement orbearing corrosionCheers

Bike-Doc

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :

A Dirty Carburetor Can Cause a Lawnmower To Start Then Die

By far, the most common issue that causes a stalled motor is a dirty carburetor. The carburetor on your engine is the thing that draws in air and mixes it with the fuel. Contrary to what the movies might make you think, gasoline itself is not very flammable.

If the filter gets clogged, you will likely encounter issues with your lawnmower. This can be something as simple as an annoying sputter when you try to start the mower, difficulty getting it started, or it can cause the mower to idle unevenly.
A dirty carburetor is one of the most common causes for a lawn mower not being able to start after sitting unused for months or years at a time.
Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten. Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace. Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If this doesn`t work, you might need a new fuel filter.
Mower Gas Cap

If the tank is sealed, the fuel becomes air locked, and the mower stalls. This typically happens after a short period between ten and thirty minutes and also depends on factors like weather and gas tank fuel level.

The spark plugs are worn or damaged

If you find that your lawnmower keeps dying, or keeps stalling while cutting grass, then inspect the spark plugs. Look for signs of damage or wear. Something as simple as a cracked porcelain insulator can mean an electrode has been damaged or burned away.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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I have changed the fuel filter on a John Deere L130 garden tractor and the engine is still not getting gas. Is there a fuel pump or other part which would stop the flow of gas to carbuerator?
ANSWER : Underneath carb bowl should be a wire. Unplug it and remove ( unscrew) electric gas shutoff. Replace.

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

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At the beining of season I could not get my =John Deere GT275 to stay runing for more than a few second after starting. I then changed the Fuel filter, clean gas tank, new fuel, new lines since I saw crud in carb bowl and tank. NOW it5 will run after started either fast or slow BUT dies if load put on engine ie moving /blades. also dies if throttle moved from slow to fast. I checked the gas shutoff and it seems fine.
ANSWER : HiDefinitely sounds like a fuel starvation problem.Did you clean out the carb jets? A blocked (or partially blocked) main jet would do that.So would water (or other contaminant) in the carb bowlOtherwise it could be stiff blades due to an entanglement orbearing corrosionCheers

Bike-Doc

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

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My la 125 john deere runs about 30 minutes then looses all fuel Ive changed fuel pump and filter and cleaned tank and pickup tube
ANSWER : Check the switch on the botom of the bowl of the carb

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I have a John Deere LX280 that won’t start. Have good spark, good fuel flow through fuel filter, and fuel in the carb bowl, but no fuel at the either of the plugs. Suspect either the safety shut off switch under the seat, or the solenoid under the carb bowl, but not sure how they are designed to work, or how to bypass them for troubleshooting purposes. Can anyone help shed some light on how the seat switch and carb bowl solenoid work, and offer any suggestions for how to get fuel to the plugs?
ANSWER : The fuel solenoid is 12 VDC. You can power it directly with 12V from the battery with the connector disconnected. It is powered from terminal A1 of the Key Switch with the switch ON. Before powering it up do a resistance check of the coil on the solenoid. It should read 40 Ohms or less.
The seat switch only provides a ground for the ignition. If the starter solenoid is engaging you should also have power to the fuel solenoid. Check for 12VDC on the engine harness for the solenoid with the Key ON. If you have 12VDC the solenoid is bad.

I am answering this post now as it appeared AFTER I had replied to another post. I note your post is 7 days old. Had I seen it 7 days ago I would have answered at that time. Sorry for the belated response.

Kelly

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How do i replace a clutch on a JD 3020 tractor
ANSWER : Break it in half, then get with it.

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