plugged into same oulet never moved. Tried in different outlet, same thing.
Garden
Your problem sounds like it is the motor giving a problem.
Unhook the belt from the compressor and run the motor by itself…check the compressor to make sure it is not dragging the motor too much making the amps go up and tripping the breaker..
If the motor runs with the belt off of the compressor, then let it run for at least an hour, then put the belt back on and try it again…if it trips again, then replace/rebuild the motor as it is faulty.
Also check the motor capacitor sometimes they fail..
If the motor still trips the breaker after removing the compressor belt..replace/repair the motor as it is faulty.
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How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?
We provide a variety of viewpoints on how to identify and fix common gardening problems. Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced gardeners :
The heart of your AC system is the compressor. It pulls tons of electricity when it starts up. Unfortunately, as the compressor ages, it has trouble starting (called hard starting) and pulls even more electricity, causing the breaker to trip as a result.
If you notice that your AC is tripping the breaker when it gets too hot outside, a dirty air filter may be to blame. Dirty filters can reduce airflow and cause AC units to overheat, resulting in a breaker trip.
A weak or defective capacitor could trigger a tripped breaker if the compressor doesn`t receive adequate starting power. A failing start capacitor is a component that can be easily diagnosed and replaced by contacting your local HVAC contractor.
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It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).
When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.
Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.
I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).
The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.
I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.
During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.
Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.
I'm stumped.
Your problem sounds like it is the motor giving a problem.
Unhook the belt from the compressor and run the motor by itself…check the compressor to make sure it is not dragging the motor too much making the amps go up and tripping the breaker..
If the motor runs with the belt off of the compressor, then let it run for at least an hour, then put the belt back on and try it again…if it trips again, then replace/rebuild the motor as it is faulty.
Also check the motor capacitor sometimes they fail..
If the motor still trips the breaker after removing the compressor belt..replace/repair the motor as it is faulty.
Please take time to rate me
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve but I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
I disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling water. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
I took the pump nose off and looked at it. The one way valve appears to be working fine. The impeller is working fine also evidenced by when I turn it on witht the discharge cap off, water shoots out. When I open one of the discharge valves and turn it on, the pressure drops to 10lbs. At this point the prime water has moved through the pipe and and the pump does not soound like it has any water in it. I pull the cap off and have to “reprime it again.” It again goes back to the pressure gauage rapidly fluctuating while pump on. I disconnect pump on intake side I hear no vacuum. The guage is on the discharge side. The seals on the pump nose do not look frayed or damaged. The pump is not leaking water in any of the joints. The pipes on discharge and well side do not appear to be leaking.
Briefly, any system that involves a water source, a water moving device, water storage device and ultimate useage is subject to leaks … into the system and out of the system. If this is a well and you have air in your system, your pump may be sucking air at the well or any loose connection between the tip of the pipe and the inlet to the pump. Your bladder could have failed but from what I can get from your comments, this is not the case. On the pressure side, neither air nor water will leak in … only out.
Please recheck all connections. Make sure your check valve is installed correctly and not leaking. The check valve assists the foot valve, which may have failed.
I am more inclined to think your well may be at the end of its useful life. To prove or disprove, you could have a plumber put a vacuum gage on your pump. He or she can answer this question is about 90 seconds based on this test. Expect to pay for one hour of time, which will be less than the time you have already invested in your project.
please help
