to bottom and it is the same as before, blew out all the jets and is spotless inside and out but still the same. Replaced all lines including gas line, carb is sucking gas, and the gas tank is clean and full so I dont know what else that it could be. If you have any help it would be great. Thanks
Garden

Experienced gardeners share their insights in answering this question :
Evan,
How is the compression on the saw? I see 2 possibilities 1 bad reed valves, or 2 a scored piston and cylinder. To check the reed valves, take the air filter off, and pull the starter rope, listen to see if air is blowing back out of the carb if it is the reed valve is broken or has something lodged in it. As far as the piston and cylinder, you can pull the muffler off and look in thru the exhaust port, what you see should be shiny and slick, if there are any vertical lines in the cylinder, or on the piston it is time for a new top end.

How to Identify and Fix Common Gardening Problems ?

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If your chainsaw still starts and then stops working, check the air filter. Clean or replace the air filter if it is dirty or damaged. Another reason that your chainsaw starts and then stops working could be that the spark arrestor is dirty or clogged. If this is the case, clean it with a wire brush.
Dirty Carburetor (air+fuel)

If fuel sits in the system for too long, the carburetor (and the engine and fuel lines) can become sticky and clog. Remove the air filter and spray the carburetor with carb cleaner—an aerosolized acetone spray made to remove the gunk.

The carburetor might be clogged. A clogged carburetor is often caused by leaving fuel in the chainsaw for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the chainsaw engine to stall.
The fuel line may be clogged from stale fuel deposits, more reasons to cause your chainsaw to cut out when applying throttle. If a fuel line is cracked, it will leak gasoline and draw air from outside into the fuel line. If the line is leaking fuel, it needs to be replaced.
If the filter becomes clogged, not enough fuel will reach the engine for it to run properly. Because your chainsaw will idle, but dies when it is revved up to full power, it means that the filter is only partially clogged; it will allow enough fuel to the engine to run on idle, but not enough to sustain full throttle.
Remove the spark plug and inspect if it is dirty, cracked, eroded, or damaged. There may also be a heavy carbon buildup or a burned-up electrode. If the spark plug has one or more of these issues, replace it with a new one.
If the chain is cutting to the left that means the right teeth on the chain are longer, and vise versa. To correct, sharpen only the side with the longer teeth. If the bar has worn unevenly it will also cause the chain to not cut straight.
The two most common reasons a chainsaw won`t idle are a blocked air filter and an idle screw out of adjustment. Other possible causes include: Dirty Air Filter. Idle Screw out of Adjustment.

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I have a husqvarna 323L string trimmer. I stored it after running the tank & carb dry for about two years. I fueled it, then started it, & it ran for a minute then died like I turned the switch off. Since it would not restart, I found the fuel filter had broken off the hardened fuel line & it sucked gummy crap out of the tank & into the carb. Failing at cleaning the carb, I finally put a new carb on it & replaced the pump, hoses & filter. It has ran good till this year. I winterized it with stabilizer & left it with a full tank over the winter. The gas in the tank was gone when I got ready to use it this year. I filled the tank with premix, checked for leaks, then started it. It would run fine for about half a tank, start idling poorly (lean) then cutoff & refuse to restart till I refilled the tank. I finally found the tank had cracks & was letting pressure out of the tank & apparently this was causing the carb to lose it’s ability to siphon gas out of the tank. So I replaced the tank which came with new hoses & a filter, which I properly installed to the carb. It cranked right up, but when it runs a half tank, the carb quits sucking gas out of the tank. When I pump to prime the carb, it moves the fuel into the carb, but the pump never gets hard like it does when I prime the carb when the motor is cold. I have to keep refilling the tank, prime, & then it starts & runs until the tank gets about half empty. The new fuel filter is down in the gas tank properly, but It will not run after it shuts off until I refill the tank & prime. I’m baffled. New tank, new hoses, new filter, new carb, & I can find no leaks in the fuel system. It runs strong. The 323L is a two-stroke & it always cranks on the second pull from cold on a full tank. Any ideas?
ANSWER :

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Have a craftsman 16″ chain saw 358.360260. Could not initially get it started after it had sat for a couple years with fuel stabilizer in it. When I went to use it the fuel had all evaporated and the fuel pick line was rotted. I replaced that with some difficulty but finally got it on. Saw still wouldn’t start. Replaced the fuel filter. Still wouldn’t start. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned and recleaned everything. Diaphragms were good and I didn’t adjust any of the mixture screws because as I said it ran fine before storage. Non of the carb passages were clogged. Fresh gas 40:1, good spark plug and good spark. Airfilter is good. Engine has maybe about 4 hours of total run time on it. It’s a ZAMA (?) carb. It will run for about 30 seconds when I manually prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel directly though the carb. When I was disassembling the carb the vent hose that goes back into the fuel tank seemed to have a small out of ?substance? in it which I cleaned out. It was right at the end the of the hose that goes back into the fuel tank and not up by the carb. It didn’t appear to be like your typical gummy deposits/varnish though. I hope it wasn?t some type of spongy check valve stuff that is supposed to be in there. That might explain some of my problems. Anyway, I also can not seem to get the primer bulb to fill. When I open the fuel tank, look in side and depress the primer bulb, air bubbles come out of the fuel filter. But when I let the bulb reexpand there’s no fuel that gets sucked up the hose. I can however seem to fill the primer bulb when the fuel tank is full and the chainsaw is laying on it?s pull cord side and the bulb is depressed a bunch of times. The saw will also start and run again for about 15 seconds then die. It’s definitely not getting/fuel and probably running out . Thanks.
ANSWER :

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525 jonsered chainsaw, wont run unless, fuel is dropped down the head, stays going for a few seconds, then shuts off. Just cleaned the carb top to bottom and it is the same as before, blew out all the jets and is spotless inside and out but still the same. Replaced all lines including gas line, carb is sucking gas, and the gas tank is clean and full so I dont know what else that it could be. If you have any help it would be great. Thanks
ANSWER : Evan,
How is the compression on the saw? I see 2 possibilities 1 bad reed valves, or 2 a scored piston and cylinder. To check the reed valves, take the air filter off, and pull the starter rope, listen to see if air is blowing back out of the carb if it is the reed valve is broken or has something lodged in it. As far as the piston and cylinder, you can pull the muffler off and look in thru the exhaust port, what you see should be shiny and slick, if there are any vertical lines in the cylinder, or on the piston it is time for a new top end.

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Chainsaw stalls Chainsaw is 4 years old and has a history of moderate use. After I ran the saw about 1 minute on plain gas (grabbed the wrong gas can – ouch) the chainsaw sputtered and stopped.

It didn't seize, and the pull starter never became more or less difficult than normal. The engine would continue to start if I pressed the prime bulb and engaging the choke, but stall again after 10-20 seconds. The temperature that day was about 50 degrees F and I was running the saw with the “cold plug” installed (per warm weather running).

When it refused to keep running I did the following:
Flushed the fuel tank (that's when I saw the gas had no oil in it).
Ran hardware wire through all of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel filter and spark plug.
Cleaned the air filter with a nylon brush and compressed air.

Same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I removed the carburetor and, though it looked perfectly clean, I took off the top and bottom covers then sprayed everything with automotive carb cleaner and blew out the passages with compressed air. The gasket and diaphragm looked new. No pinholes in the diaphragm when held against a bright light. I reinstalled the carb but got the same behavior (start then stall in less than 20 seconds). I again made at least 20+ attempts to start it.

I disassembled the short block and saw that the piston has some slight scoring on it. The ring is clean and I verified that the piston ring has .001 clearance between it and the piston ring groove all the way around with the ring held tightly in place (I was thinking that the piston might have become deformed if it did indeed get too hot when run without any oil premix).

The cylinder wall has no scoring and there isn't any signs of melted aluminum anywhere. The crank is clean as was the inside of the crank cover.

I reinstalled the crank cover using permatex non-hardening gasket goop and torqued the cover bolts to 10 inch pounds. I reassembled everything else per the exploded diagrams in Echo's “parts manual” for the CS400.

During assembly I took note that both the carb gasket and intake boot look like new.

Still the same result: press prime bulb once, engage choke, pull a few times and it starts but stalls after 10-20 seconds.

I'm stumped.

ANSWER : Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.

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Need to replace fuel lines on my Troy Bilt gas hedge trimmer. Where can I get replacement fuel lines… or better yet… what size are the lines and where can I buy a few feet of the lines. Note: I have reviewed the parts assembly and it would seem to indicate I have to replace the entire handle assembly (Part #1) instead of just buying replacement hose(s). Any help to resolve my issue would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance
ANSWER : Replacement fuel lines should be readily available at your local lawnmower repair shop. Your TroyBilt hedger uses fuel line that is 3/32″ (2.4mm) interior dimension, 3/16″ (4.8mm) outside dimension, with a 3/64″ (1.2mm) wall dimension.
Most manufacturers don’t offer replacement line, only fuel tank assemblies. Find your local shop, and try to get the TYGON brand…it is yellow. Tygon lasts the longest. You should be able to buy it by the foot for less than $2 per foot. You will need 2 feet of hose to replace both lines.

Make sure to clean the in-tank filter when replacing hoses.

Good luck.

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My tractor stalls like it is starved for gas although the gas tank is full. I,ve changed the fuel filter and the gas cap. I’ve cleaned out the gas tank, gas lines, and the carburetor bowl. The problem seems more acute when the gas tank is full or near full. At this time to alleviate the problem, I blow through the gas cap and the fuel filter fills with gas and it runs good again. But as soon as the fuel filter has no more gas, of course, it stalls until I blow on the gas cap. As the tank gets down to about 1/3 full, the engine runs OK. What else could cause this condition?
ANSWER : I had a similar problem with a sears tractor. close to the carbarator is a rectangle box with a rubber hose going to the engine block – remove the hose and spray carb cleaner in the hose wait a few mins and try again – its a vacuum for the carb

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Poulan pro chain wont stay running – Poulan Pro Chain Saw 46cc 20"
ANSWER : Keep “poulan” ha ha

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The fuel lines have rotted out of the edger gas tank. How do I fix or do I need to replace entire tank with new fuel lines?Since there are no male fuel line connections exiting the fuel tank and just two holes where the lines were, I guess I need to replace the entire tank and get a new one with lines already attached. Thanks.
ANSWER : No you can buy replacement fuel line but you must reconnect the filter in the tank that line goes to the bottom of the carby then out the top of the carby to the inlet on the primer then out of the primer and back to the tank.

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